I am having trouble removing the sprocket from my go kart. I need to remove the sprocket to replace the brake. I took off the wheel and there is a piece that is infront of the sprocket. I tried using a puller to pull that off, but it won't budge. is there something i am missing?
Remove Sprocket from Go Kart
- Thread starter jcharles
- Start date
- Status
kendelrk
redneck engineer
could you post a pic? are the wheels one peice, or two? please take a pic of both sides
kendelrk
redneck engineer
on the hub, make sure youve taken off the set screws, if you have and still werent able to get it off, take wd-40 and spray around it, and heat it up a little with a torch, then slowley and carefully hit the hub with a rubber mallet and it should start moving, its due to rust on the axle, when you put it back together, i suggest putting anti seize around out
kendelrk
redneck engineer
on the hub, on one side theres a smaller circle and has a space for the keyway, look around that circle and there should be an allen key screw that you need to take out
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Snug puller to the point BEFORE it actually starts bending flange.
Smack the end of puller (where wrench fits on) with a copper pipe and hammer.
Copper pipe is soft and will prevent damage to puller drive screw head.
It should move. Use plenty of oil. Soak overnight. Trans fluid works best.
Smack the end of puller (where wrench fits on) with a copper pipe and hammer.
Copper pipe is soft and will prevent damage to puller drive screw head.
It should move. Use plenty of oil. Soak overnight. Trans fluid works best.
Pics would also help. Maybe there is something that we are missing
jamyers
Well-known member
If the exposed shaft is the least bit dirty/rusty/painted, take a flat file and clean it up nice and shiny, which will also highlight any dings or high spots that will cause problems once you get the hub moving.
If you don't see any set-screws or other tightening mechanism, then it's basically "rust-glued" itself to the shaft.
The above suggestions are good, here's the drill that's helped me recently -
Soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days (I love Kroil, but it's only available online), Put a puller on it and tighten down as much as I dare,
Heat the hub/impeller with a torch (not red-hot, but good and hot),
Spray the shaft with more oil (cools/contracts the shaft so oil can get in there),
Try tightening the puller again,
Hit the end of the puller with a large hammer (using the copper above is a great idea, don't want the hardened puller to send a chip flying).
If/when all that fails, go back to step one and try again in a couple of days.
If you don't see any set-screws or other tightening mechanism, then it's basically "rust-glued" itself to the shaft.
The above suggestions are good, here's the drill that's helped me recently -
Soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days (I love Kroil, but it's only available online), Put a puller on it and tighten down as much as I dare,
Heat the hub/impeller with a torch (not red-hot, but good and hot),
Spray the shaft with more oil (cools/contracts the shaft so oil can get in there),
Try tightening the puller again,
Hit the end of the puller with a large hammer (using the copper above is a great idea, don't want the hardened puller to send a chip flying).
If/when all that fails, go back to step one and try again in a couple of days.
Doc Sprocket
*********
Heat is your friend. What's more, rapid cooling is your best friend. Have a bucket of cold water handy, and heat that stuff up- nice and hot. Now, pour the water over it. The two metals will cool rapidly, (at slightly different rates). This usually is quite effective in breaking the bond between the metals that the corrosion has created.
jamyers
Well-known member
Also, remove that drive chain before it gets bound up when the hub comes loose.
jamyers
Well-known member
I've looked at your pics a couple of times, and finally think I know what you've got there. Looks like your hub is a version of one of these double-flanged live-axle hubs,
instead of the more common type that has bearings and goes on a single dead axle.
If you're sure that's what you've got, and the threaded shaft and the hub are two separate parts,
then I'd heat the entire length of that hub just shy of red-hot.
instead of the more common type that has bearings and goes on a single dead axle.
If you're sure that's what you've got, and the threaded shaft and the hub are two separate parts,
then I'd heat the entire length of that hub just shy of red-hot.
Last edited:
jamyers
Well-known member
Best way to heat it is quickly, the fastest way I know is to use an acetylene torch with a "rosebud" tip - that oughta heat the entire hub up in about 30 seconds.
If you don't have that, then use the hottest thing you do have. Main thing is to get it hot enough to expand / contract and make a tiny gap for the penetrating oil to get in there.
If you don't have that, then use the hottest thing you do have. Main thing is to get it hot enough to expand / contract and make a tiny gap for the penetrating oil to get in there.
- Status