the front geometry is not responsible for the rear axles flexibility.
While I agree that a correctly set up front axle geometry helps adding the necessary "grip" on the front wheels to achieve the rear lift..
it's not CAUSING said rear lift at all.
In racing karts the amount (and sensibilty for wheel lift) is adjustable by addig or removing crossmembers sizing up or down the axle diameter..
it's indeed the amount of flexibility in the rear chassis that makes the inner wheel loose contact.
[and yes, that's where the ideal grip of the front end comes in]
but if you have a low COG and a very very rigid rear end.. you will need to hit a curb in order to lift a wheel..
calculating the amount of lift is merely impossible, from the quality of the front wheels, to the temperature of the frame rails, from the weight distribution to the exact alloy of the steel being used.. the length diameter and thickness of the rails and the friction coefficient of the track you're zipping along... there's more to take into account than I'm able to even list...
Take a look at how racing chassis are layed out:
- fairly independed left and right side rails (one generally beefed up with a second rail to carry the engine's load)
- and most of the times ONE diagonal cross member welded in. (for the 'basic' stability to support driver and engine)
and then ..
different rear bumper and a detachable crossmember to add stability in case needed.
This has to be set and reset for every track and every weather condition.
(move a crossmember in or out or change the location) add a different [more or less sturdy] rear bumper... maybe change the axle to a more or less flexible one.
Really, those things need to be tested, not calculated...
'sid