Recommendations plz!

[BAMBY]

ok... my friend just got a really sweet briggs 8hp off craigslist for 65 bucks. it runs well and is in great visible condition... tomorrow we will see whats up on the inside... cant wait.

well, it has the 1inch shaft and i just dont hear a lot about centrifugal clutches for these...

PLEASE recommend a clutch for my friend... we will be modding it semi-heavily, and expect around 10-11hp in the end.
hopefully it will cost less than 200bucks also.

Thanks in advance!
BAMBY

 

[solomon]

well a clutch that size is usually 70-120 bux. if i were u id get a torque a verter

id yank the governor and thats it haha well besides a rebuild too

 

[BAMBY]

well torque conv's are out of the question... theyre all backordered and they are WAY too expensive for 1in sizes.

any links/webpages would be helpfull.

 

[anderkart]

You cab buy several different 1" clutches rated up to 8hp in the $59 to $100 range. You'll find some in this search link. (just make sure they're really 1" not 3/4"):
http://www.google.com/products?sour...a=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4
These would all probably work just fine for 10-11hp fun kart with reasonable gearing.

I've been using this 1" race clutch model http://www.kartpartsstore.net/servlet/the-337/The-Noram-Star-Clutch/Detail (price includes shipping) on both my 406cc/10hp. Honda and my 20hp Star race kart motor for quite awhile now and its still holding up great. If you want to step up to a 1" race clutch, this is the lowest priced model I've found. They come with your choice of 13 to 18 tooth drivers. They enguage at 2500 rpm's stock, but for an extera $5 you can buy serveral diferent spring kits to raise the stall speed up to as high as 4000rpm.

 

[solomon]

ok for a clutch use ebay
are you rebuilding the engine aswell?

CLUTCH #35
#41

 

[EagleTalons]

Is the engine a flathead?

 

[1992suburban]

Take the side cover off, see if there is a bearing on the "clutch side" of the crank.. Please let me know..

 

[BAMBY]

yes, engine will be rebuilt, but the cylinder is pristeeeeen. not a scratch in sight. no hone marks either tho... a perfect broken in engine... awesome.

yes, engine is a flathead...
built in '66

my buddy is away for the weekend, and we left the engine in
our school shop, so monday will tell if a bearing exists.

the online part guide (m&d) said it did have a bearing, we typed in all the info... model type code etc.

what do you guys think... is #35 chain acceptable, or is it too flimsy for a minibike? my impression is that nothing less than #40/41 is acceptable.

my friend is a ~200lb weight lifting muscle man, so yeah... but the frame aint gonna be anything special, mostly angle iron bed frames prolly. so the bike might total close to 100lbs, if this makes any difference on chain selection.

it isnt really gonna be a racing minibike, just for me him and my other friend to go out cruising together on our mini bikes. the occasional friendly dragrace or highspeed test may come up though. but he'll still prolly beat the crap out of it every once in a while too.

hope this helps you guys recommend me a clutch...
BAMBY

 

[anderkart]

I think most any 1" clutch will work fine for that. Get your clutch before you mount your engine. Many of the less expensive 1" models have the driver gear sticking quite a bit further out than you'd expect.

I run a #35 RLV Xtreme gold on gold chain with 20 hp but I wouldnt trust a cheap split-roller, industrial type chain. #219 or #35 is most common on race karts but a 40/41 of equal quality should be stronger.

 

[BAMBY]

ok thanks, how do i know if the chain is good or bad? i wont be able to see it.. ya know?

so your saying #35 is plenty fine if you buy a GOOD #35 chain?
i think thats how i understand it...
BAMBY

 

[EagleTalons]

If you are putting this on a minibike you want to get a bi directional clutch. Some of the 1" clutches have the step down to a 5/8 which makes the clutch sit way out there.

You can buy some normal #35, but take really good care of it. Although it will eventually fall apart. You want to change the chain before it gets too much stretch in it or else you risk damaging your sprockets.

I run RLV #35. Its some really smooth chain. No noise from it at all!

 

[anderkart]

I agree with EagleTalons, You'll probably want/need a clutch that can be mounted inboard for a mini bike. Many of those less expensive 1" models dont. You'll need to call/email to ask the sellers if they can be mounted with the driver gear inboard or not. (the race clutch I recommended above can be mounted inboard or outboard)

ok thanks, how do i know if the chain is good or bad? i wont be able to see it.. ya know?

so your saying #35 is plenty fine if you buy a GOOD #35 chain?
i think thats how i understand it...
BAMBY

Just like anything else theres cheap low priced chains and premium quality that cost more. A google search for most any brand/model of part your considering will sometimes find meaningful info on product quality. (when I want to seriously research go kart products I also do a search over on bobs 4 cycle forums, and then only pay attention to the guys that actualy seem to know what they're talking about)

The rollers on lower priced chains usualy have a split in them where they were stamped into a tube from a flat piece of steel, quality chain rollers are usualy a solid piece of tubing with no unfinished seam. I'm sure theres lots of other differences in materials and build quality, but chances are unless you guys are going to put a ton of miles on your mini bike or gear it for super high speeds most any chain brand or size would probably get the job done.