Rebuild 5hp Briggs

[Hambone]

Hey guys, I got this old 5hp horizontal shaft Briggs and Stratton with a go kart I bought for the frame.

Model: 135202
Type: 1259e1

It's a yard machines motor, so I guess it came off of a tiller or something like that.

It needs a carburetor, gas tank, air filter, and exhaust.
It has compression and I can see the valves open and close when I turn the flywheel. I think it has a spark, haven't checked that yet.

A couple of the head bolts have been stripped on the bkock and replaced with studs.

Is this motor worth rebuilding? I don't want to spend a ton of money, but if I can add some performance parts along the way I will.

Also what is that wire hanging off the side of the block?

 

[KartFab]

In my opinion i think its worth rebuilding. They are nice little engines. The wire hanging off of the side of the block goes to the kill switch that is typically next to the carb, and/or remote kill switch, when grounded, it wont let the spark plug produce spark.

I have an air filter, air filter housing, and exhaust. Ill sell it to ya for $35 shipped.

 

[Joe-405]

those head studs look factory to me. i had one that had them also.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Looking at the headbolts....I don't think anything was stripped. ...those studs were for something to mount to.....

I'd rebuild It (because it's cheap to do and those are decent engines)....

Edit: About that wire....I don't have a clue.....but could it be a flywheel brake?

 

[Hambone]

Thanks guys, is there a special way to go about removing the rust in the intake port hole thing (haha, not sure what the correct term is)? Also, would you go ahead and tear it down completely to check for internal wear? Or just get her running first?

 

[KartFab]

You can always crack the crankcase open and have a peek inside, then clean the goop out of the bottom that didnt drain out, put in fresh oil, drip a few drops of gas in the spark plug hole, then give the cord a few pulls, it should run for a few seconds.

 

[Gokartbill]

I would check to see if there are any major problems before starting such as cracks in the block, cracks in the flywheel, broken valve springs and broken piston rings. Also make sure theres enough oil.

 

[qtband]

IMO, I'd check for spark and compression. If that's all good, put a $7 muffler on it (from Ace), remove the governor and put a slide type carb on it. When you remove the governor, you can clean out the crankcase.

 

[Hambone]

Okay, I'm looking at parts on ebay and they are pretty expensive. I'd like to stay under $75 if I leave it stock, maybe more if I go with performance parts.

qtband, how could I mount the gas tank if I put a different type carburetor on it?

Also, if I remove the governor, how fast would it spin and what supporting modifications should I make to be sure the engine is reliable when it spins over factory ratings?
New connecting rod, flywheel, etc?

 

[KartFab]

Also, if I remove the governor, how fast would it spin and what supporting modifications should I make to be sure the engine is reliable when it spins over factory ratings?
New connecting rod, flywheel, etc?

As long as you leave in the factory valve springs, that should limit your max rpms enough to protect the stock flywheel/conrod from breaking. I don't think (my opinion) there is that much danger in removing the governor, and upgrading intake/exhaust with the rest of the engine stock.

The dangerous part would be removing the governor, and upgrading the springs without getting a performance flywheel and connecting rod. In other words:

Option #1(cheap, relatively safe, better rpms)
governor gone=ok, performance intake/exhaust=ok

Another Option (bad idea, not safe)
option #1 + upgrade valve springs without new flywheel/connecting rod=not ok

Another Option (expensive, safe, much better rpms)
option #1 + heavier valve springs, new performance flywheel and connecting rod

 

[qtband]

qtband, how could I mount the gas tank if I put a different type carburetor on it?

You would mount an external tank either by a home made bracket, or affixed to the kart.

Also....fill out your profile so we know where you are. Some members would gladly give you some parts if we knew you were nearby.

 

[Hambone]

I live on Sand Mountain in North Alabama, could've sworn I filled that out.

So when I remove the governor, it'll stop revving up when the valves start to float?

Would it be possible/better to use like an 8hp briggs carb and tank? Think it would bolt up?

 

[qtband]

I don't think the 8hp stuff will fit. Also, I looked at the pics again and you're missing all the throttle linkage. If you decide to remove the governor you won't need the linkage.
BTW....your location shows up now.

 

[solomon]

How come no one has mentioned how short the shaft is? Not sure you an really mount a clutch on it but anything's possible. The motor with stock springs will go to about 5500rpm. Damage from con. rod happens around 6k. Check the con rod and crank for scoring as well ad the cylinder if that all checks out. Pull the gov. Lap the valves, hone the cylinder and put new rings. Eliminate your head gasket or machine the head and that will get u to around 5500 rpm and is cheappp cost prob under 40$

 

[zbuck]

I say that the engine came off of a tiller/snow blower and appears to be a Kool-Bore engine. Those a factory B&S studs. Like stated , I would pull the side cover and pull the rod cap and check for damage. Also pull the head and remove any carbon build up. You also may find the exhaust valve stuck. If your are going to pull the governor and do not do anything with the tin oil slinger, your are going to eventuality find a nice picture window in the block. Carb. 498298, fuel tank 694315 and gasket set 495603. Good luck on your endevers.