Rear shocks /swingarm

[panchothedog]

diyduneman sir. In post #3 you asked who is Pancho. I am he ,the guy that responded to your other post. It is much LESS confusing when you keep everything in one thread.
Red Flash. You are absolutely right on in everything you have posted on this thread, as I'm sure you were already fully aware of.
diyduneman. You started out asking why your swing arm isn't working. In the other thread I explained why not and now on this thread ez-come ez-go has provided you with a clear picture of what needs to happen.
NEW and most important subject. 4 or 5 very experienced go kart enthusiasts
of which I include myself have commented on, and expressed their concern about the material you have used as well as how it is held together. No one is mad at you BUT every one of us is pretty sure that you or someone else is going to be seriously injured when your kart disassembles or folds in half while
traveling at a high rate of speed. You tried to defend your position by referring to the frame as being made of solid steel. What about the HUNDREDS of holes
in your solid steel. Does it not register with you that every hole is a weak point.
On top of that you have one of the largest and most powerful engines out there
waiting to power it. Now ask yourself, and for safety sake please be honest, how many other high powered go karts have you seen built out of bolted together uni - strut.

 

[diyduneman]

But I never said am going to drive the kart at high speed , maybe am going to drive it very low , it's just am 300 lbs and that why I got powerful engine so it can carry my fat a**. I never said am going to take off like a rocket. I have never seen one but it seems like you guys are 100 percent right , so I should weld back end seing arm along front end suspension, the middle part no steel hole bars are used . Thanks for your input.

 

[Denny]

Red was right. We don’t want to see anyone hurt. With the unlock nuts it will be better but it still won’t stay tight. Once the tubing starts to collapse and it will, things will loosen up quickly. All of us combined together have probably 100 years of hurting ourselves and experience. We are just trying to save you the pain of having to go through what we went through. A lot of pain! If you want to be successful in this hobby you will need to learn to weld. Now would be the perfect time to learn. Just go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap mig welder and a spool or 2 of flux core wire and sit down and learn. If you can write your name in cursive with a ball point pen you are already half way done learning the basics. Don’t forget to buy an auto darkening helmet and good leather welding gloves. We can help you learn! You’d be surprised what we have taught people to do here, if they take the time to listen.

 

[diyduneman]

Red was right. We don’t want to see anyone hurt. With the unlock nuts it will be better but it still won’t stay tight. Once the tubing starts to collapse and it will, things will loosen up quickly. All of us combined together have probably 100 years of hurting ourselves and experience. We are just trying to save you the pain of having to go through what we went through. A lot of pain! If you want to be successful in this hobby you will need to learn to weld. Now would be the perfect time to learn. Just go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap mig welder and a spool or 2 of flux core wire and sit down and learn. If you can write your name in cursive with a ball point pen you are already half way done learning the basics. Don’t forget to buy an auto darkening helmet and good leather welding gloves. We can help you learn! You’d be surprised what we have taught people to do here, if they take the time to listen.

Thank you , I'll do that but I like to think outside the box that's why I did it my way , I gusse I'll build two go karts one welded and one bolted to see the difference overtime.

 

[diyduneman]

Thank you , I'll do that but I like to think outside the box that's why I did it my way , I gusse I'll build two go karts one welded and one bolted to see the difference overtime.

You also mentioned it'd better to use non locking nuts. Can you explain why? As I read the locking nuts help for vibration and keep the nuts from getting loose.

 

[diyduneman]

diyduneman sir. In post #3 you asked who is Pancho. I am he ,the guy that responded to your other post. It is much LESS confusing when you keep everything in one thread.
Red Flash. You are absolutely right on in everything you have posted on this thread, as I'm sure you were already fully aware of.
diyduneman. You started out asking why your swing arm isn't working. In the other thread I explained why not and now on this thread ez-come ez-go has provided you with a clear picture of what needs to happen.
NEW and most important subject. 4 or 5 very experienced go kart enthusiasts
of which I include myself have commented on, and expressed their concern about the material you have used as well as how it is held together. No one is mad at you BUT every one of us is pretty sure that you or someone else is going to be seriously injured when your kart disassembles or folds in half while
traveling at a high rate of speed. You tried to defend your position by referring to the frame as being made of solid steel. What about the HUNDREDS of holes
in your solid steel. Does it not register with you that every hole is a weak point.
On top of that you have one of the largest and most powerful engines out there
waiting to power it. Now ask yourself, and for safety sake please be honest, how many other high powered go karts have you seen built out of bolted together uni - strut.

So you think these steel bars with 58000 psi not strong enough? . What should I replace then with ? These are 40 dollar a pc steel bars unlike the most common used 10 dollar thinner steel round bars most people use.

 

[diyduneman]

Are you saying these are stronger?

 

[redflash]

They come for advice........................then argue with us ! If you don't want to learn.....don't ask !

 

[Denny]

Yes, the round tubing with the same thickness wall will be much stronger. And if used properly stiffer too! In this case thinking out of the box will get you put in one faster! Also no need to start a separate thread for everything. Keep it all under one thread. I never said the nyloc nuts were a bad idea. I fact it was the only good idea you had!

 

[diyduneman]

They come for advice........................then argue with us ! If you don't want to learn.....don't asking

Asking questions to understand and acquire knowledge isnt arguing. I do respect all your replies and I believe you guys know what your doing more then me .that's why I am here , please if your going to reply to my posts try to assist more then criticize. I prefer images it helps alot.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Thank you for your input definitely wouldn't want to hurt my self driving it or others , so what makes you think it will break? Screws hold thousands of pounds . The frame it self isn't galvanized its solid steel , only galvanized is rear arm seing and front suspension of which I can have someone replace it and get it welded , this project was started for just fun and am not made even if made mistake , willing to correct some things that I why I registered on here so I can hear everyone's inputs and I appreciate raising concerns about it and would love to hear more of your ideas in going forward with what you think should be added or changed , but definitely not the whole thing is galvanized.

All that square holey tubing is galvanized. The only metal I see on this that "might" not be is the flat bar underneath. Just sayin'

 

[Functional Artist]

Asking questions to understand and acquire knowledge isnt arguing. I do respect all your replies and I believe you guys know what your doing more then me .that's why I am here , please if your going to reply to my posts try to assist more then criticize. I prefer images it helps alot.

OK
If I were you, I'd take a couple of hours & really look thru this forum.

It is "packed" with build threads on how folks have built many different styles of good-n-strong karts
...& it's also "packed" with pics (images) of them karts too

It will help you, to educate your self (on this subject)
...so, you can (then) understand what everyone is trying to explain to you

 

[diyduneman]

All that square holey tubing is galvanized. The only metal I see on this that "might" not be is the flat bar underneath. Just sayin'

Yes according to my test the galvanized tubing is stronger then the tubing most use to build thair go karts .

 

[Master Hack]

Your test is erronious. Galvanizing is a process done to regular steel and does not add strengh, in fact detracts from strengh. We’ve seen examples of karts made from everything including wood, pcv, and shopping carts. Just cuz some do it doesn’t make it right.
Steel ain’t cheap! I’m going to start putting what l have in the safe. DOM tubing (AKA seamless mechanical tubing) is what l prefer to use. HREW ( hot rolled electlic welded) tubing is good for most applications andis cheaper. Use guality materials and good welds and you’ll never regret it. You’ll have a soliid project that will stand up to all the abuse you can dish out. You can find it cheaper at a steel dealer, but here is an example:

Amazon.com

 

[diyduneman]

Your test is erronious. Galvanizing is a process done to regular steel and does not add strengh, in fact detracts from strengh. We’ve seen examples of karts made from everything including wood, pcv, and shopping carts. Just cuz some do it doesn’t make it right.
Steel ain’t cheap! I’m going to start putting what l have in the safe. DOM tubing (AKA seamless mechanical tubing) is what l prefer to use. HREW ( hot rolled electlic welded) tubing is good for most applications andis cheaper. Use guality materials and good welds and you’ll never regret it. You’ll have a soliid project that will stand up to all the abuse you can dish out. You can find it cheaper at a steel dealer, but here is an example:

Amazon.com

I used

1-1/2-in x 3-ft Zinc-Plated Steel Perforated Square Tube with 5/64 inch . I put your steel bar between two perforated square tubes and tightened bolt and gusse whatb, your steel tube bent and my perforated square didn't even have a scratch on it. What's the Yield Tensile Strength on the steel round tube you provided link to?. Mine is 58000 psi​

 

[Master Hack]

Yeah, you’re right! Have fun!

oh btw,

MECHANICAL INFORMATION​
	Imperial	Metric
Ultimate Tensile Strength	132,000psi	602 MPa
Yield Tensile Strength	74,185psi	512 MPa

 

[Denny]

You’re obviously much smarter than we are. Good luck!

 

[madprofessor]

Diydune, I sense that you're hoping to build something to finished-product level and just hope that it'll end up being mechanically correct per your needs, so you don't have to rip it apart and start over. The perforated steel square tubing that the folks are debating about has a value in an experimental build insofar that it allows for moving a structural bolt by increments (the c2c distance of the holes) to "dial in" what you need.
I cannot endorse finishing with steel with those holes in it as finished-product, but if the size was doubled it would be a wash. It would also wash out your wallet.
Look at the attached picture of a truly difficult bit of geometry on rear coilovers that are built in a cantilevered configuration. You'll see that the top end of the action sections of the frame is still sticking up 2"-3" beyond where the tops of the shocks mount, haven't been cut back yet. That is after cutting off the mounting ears for the tops of the shocks and moving/rewelding them about 1.5" higher.
This should demonstrate to you that there are multiple ways to slap a configuration together for testing, and keep adjusting until it's right, without ever building out all the way, and crapping out with maximum work wasted, and minimum work that could have been done instead being an opportunity wasted.
Know this also..........Those gold color coilovers you've ordered come to you with the spring rate completely unloaded (look at the picture) just as my 17" ones did, and I was stunned by how much difference cranking the adjuster nut down to preload the spring made. It doubled the load capacity of my coilovers compared to being fully unloaded.