Rear axle/bracket with frame problem.

[ferhankov]

So a little problem shown in the photo. The bracket's bottom slot for the nut/bolt is clashing with the frame. Is the bracket supposed to sit on top of the frame, or am I supposed to drill into the frame or what?

 

[Scout]

Easiest way would be to slot the holes a little bit. Or cut the brackets off and reweld. Or take it apart and dent the frame right there. Some will say don't dent the frame, but dents are stronger than holes, and don't let water and stuff in to rust your frame from the inside.

 

[ferhankov]

Easiest way would be to slot the holes a little bit. Or cut the brackets off and reweld. Or take it apart and dent the frame right there. Some will say don't dent the frame, but dents are stronger than holes, and don't let water and stuff in to rust your frame from the inside.

The bracket isn't welded at all yet. And denting it enough to let the bottom nut/bolt sit properly then weld, right?

 

[Oxymoron]

If it's not welded to the frame yet, I don't see the problem?

Just weld extensions onto the brackets to provide clearance, then weld to the frame.

Unless I'm missing something?

 

[firemanjim]

No no no no no,...... You have it right, kinda...... put the bracket on top of frame, not next to it. Look at the end of bracket. See how it is cut curved? Thats so it sits nicely on round tube. If it is too tall that way, try rotating the bracket and use the flat side with the 3 holes in in as the bottom.....

 

[Oxymoron]

Didn't even see the notched bottom

In that case, I'd fill the notched sections with weld, then grind flat before welding it to the SHS.

 

[OzFab]

Guys, what you can't see is that the bracket has a second return, it's a double ended C bracket.

As Jim suggested, the bracket sits on the frame, not next to it. Sit it on, square & position it correctly the weld down both sides, no need to fill the ends

 

[Oxymoron]

Why wouldn't you fill the ends? Wouldn't it be easier to weld straight across, rather than trying to fill them sitting on the square as you're laying a bead?

I mean, you could do it either way I suppose... but I think you'd get better penetration filling first, grinding a bevel across the edge, then laying a single bead straight across.

Sorry man, not trying to debate... just wondering why you wouldn't? I'm sure you have a reason. Or is it because the gap created by the notch isn't that big? I can't really tell by the pic.

 

[Scout]

I wouldn't grind a bevel on material that thin. Its a t joint, not a butt joint, you don't need to bevel anyway.

And no, I didn't know it wasn't welded yet. Set the bracket on top of the tube, weld down the long side, then weld the little bits on the other side of the notch. No need to fill that in.

 

[Oxymoron]

Okie dokie I didn't even see how thin the material was before. I've got to look at these pics closer before I open my mouth. Looks about .125" I wouldn't bevel that either. D'oh!

At least you didn't call my comment laughable, like that guy did to you in that other thread, lol... geez, I thought that was a bit harsh.

 

[ferhankov]

Alright guys, so from what I've seen from your replies the best way is to weld it on top of the steel chassis. Once I've done that, I shall post a photo to show you all how it ends up. Thanks

 

[OzFab]

Be sure to distribute the heat; I'm sure the frame tube will be thinner than the hanger...

It is 0.125". Here's a better view to help you understand:

As you can see, there are returns on the opposite side of the mounting surface. once you weld both sides, welding the ends is overkill