J.S.@SMS
Road Hazard
Yeah, I've had similar thoughts. I thought about doing a rwd conversion on my 2000 buick lesabre, and dropping in a sbc backed by a 4l65e. I know a 4l85 can handle more torque, but they shift with all the speed of a dead snail.
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OFF TOPIC fun forum - NO politics - NO religion - NO jerks. It's not complicated. Thanks!
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Kartorbust
Inmate #627
Kind of hard to blow up an engine that's solidly bulletproof. Being a non-interference engine, even if it goes out of time, no risk to the valve train or pistons.
But man, that car is even older than I am, by 2 years. If you want a good beater, it's either that car or. GEO Metro.
But man, that car is even older than I am, by 2 years. If you want a good beater, it's either that car or. GEO Metro.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
Ok so if i turboed it it still wouldnt die? Lol
J.S.@SMS
Road Hazard
Well, If you're looking to purposely blow it up, you can't go wrong with bouncing it off the limiter at the same time as a hundred shot of nitrous, after about 20 pounds of boost. But why? I mean, you have a car that runs, that you don't have to pay for, that has a non interference engine, and it blends in. Plus, the added advantage of not getting any tickets, mostly due to it likely having less than 120hp.
Solomonster212
High Compression Member
Let me share my ride with you guys... I doubt most of you will even know what it is or what it has in it, but it's cool to me and I enjoy turning the wrenches on weekends and holidays. She's not the fastest car on the street, but it's a 5 speed with a few bolt on's and she'll get out out of her own way. I think she's good lookin too. lol
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Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
Is that a mitubishi eclipse? It looks like the green one from fast and the furious.
Also my parents got their tax return and they owed me 200$ so buying a 212 hemi, a tire or three, oil, bolts, nuts, and some other parts. And whatever is left they can keep
Also my parents got their tax return and they owed me 200$ so buying a 212 hemi, a tire or three, oil, bolts, nuts, and some other parts. And whatever is left they can keep
J.S.@SMS
Road Hazard
I don't have a pic of my Tahoe but I do have one of my grandfathers car. And I'd bet you'll be able to identify it immediately.
It's an '88 and either a Z52 (Street performance) or Z51 (Track performance) option, since it has the 17" wheels. 350 SBC with TPI, and 700r4 auto.
It's an '88 and either a Z52 (Street performance) or Z51 (Track performance) option, since it has the 17" wheels. 350 SBC with TPI, and 700r4 auto.
Solomonster212
High Compression Member
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
I'm 5 and a half hours deep into this nonsense.
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mckutzy
Well-known member
Speaking of automotive stuff...
I recently bought another nissan D21 a couple of months ago. I needed to do somethings to have it in better running condition.
I did all the plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Its an 89, so with a z24 type engine, it need 8 plugs/wires. Its a twin spark system.
I fixed the speedometer, It had a bent needle that was dragging on the speedo gauge card... Tried to bend it back a ways.. of course it broke. Glued on a matchstick painted white, works fine now.
Im still trying to find out what up with the tach, but im not too sure. It works but when it wants to or when my foot is off the gas in idle. That will be another quest for later when I feel like it...
Other than that, my last thing was a working gas gauge.... The gauge itself works, did a bench test and it powered up fine...
Since its an all-in-one system with the pump and sender unit, I had to get another assembly.
Getting to the gas tank was a whole nother thing...
I ended up going with the bed lifting instead of dropping the tank...
I got the big high lift jack setup, unbolted the bed and tilted till I had room to remove it out...
When Taking out the assembly, found the bobber arm had a couple of plastic clips that retain the arm against the metering track, had broken off, hence why not sending signal and circuit was open.
Spent the day taking my time to get it right and back together correctly, clean and rust fee inside the tank, also a good sign. Some rust and difficult bolts, but antisieze and careful reassembly that went relatively smooth.
Im glad to know that I have a 1/4 tank left on the now working fuel gauge.
I recently bought another nissan D21 a couple of months ago. I needed to do somethings to have it in better running condition.
I did all the plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Its an 89, so with a z24 type engine, it need 8 plugs/wires. Its a twin spark system.
I fixed the speedometer, It had a bent needle that was dragging on the speedo gauge card... Tried to bend it back a ways.. of course it broke. Glued on a matchstick painted white, works fine now.
Im still trying to find out what up with the tach, but im not too sure. It works but when it wants to or when my foot is off the gas in idle. That will be another quest for later when I feel like it...
Other than that, my last thing was a working gas gauge.... The gauge itself works, did a bench test and it powered up fine...
Since its an all-in-one system with the pump and sender unit, I had to get another assembly.
Getting to the gas tank was a whole nother thing...
I ended up going with the bed lifting instead of dropping the tank...
I got the big high lift jack setup, unbolted the bed and tilted till I had room to remove it out...
When Taking out the assembly, found the bobber arm had a couple of plastic clips that retain the arm against the metering track, had broken off, hence why not sending signal and circuit was open.
Spent the day taking my time to get it right and back together correctly, clean and rust fee inside the tank, also a good sign. Some rust and difficult bolts, but antisieze and careful reassembly that went relatively smooth.
Im glad to know that I have a 1/4 tank left on the now working fuel gauge.
karl
Well-known member
5.7 hemi? Anyways, dont feel bad, this hemorrhoid will have almost 5k wrapped up in it before it's done, some people cant let go...
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Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
Whats that? Tractor with what underneath?
karl
Well-known member
The tractor's a 1955 farmall cub, the thing underneath it is a blower, for a ferris commercial mower's power assisted bagging system, unrelated to the tractor
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
3.6L Pentastar V6. The oil cooler (2nd picture) on it was broken and the gaskets allowed it to leak oil into the valley and onto the transmission. Both problems are common with this engine...well broken not so much, the early 3.6s from like 2011 to 2013 yes. Leaking oil cooler is still common and inevitable on the 3.6L. It took me 7.3 hours (7 hours 18 minutes) to do this. First one ever I've had to do.
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
I spent almost 200$ on a shopping trip to horror frought, tractor supply and walmart. I purchased a non hemi 212 (100$) some non impact rated hf 2$ converter thingies for a bit driver. Some 10w-30 for the new engine, a nice little pitsburg screw driver set some bolts to bolt the engine down and finnally a 40$ hyper tough cordless impact and 20$ extra battery at walmart.
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
I would've suggested 5w30 for a broader range of temperatures it can do. Would do great all year round. Seeing as the Midwest has the strangest weather patterns. But 10w30 will do fine. Just change it often.
Solomonster212
High Compression Member
Why'd you get the non-hemi?
Nice!!
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
J.S.@SMS
Road Hazard
Yeah, I made the mistake of getting a hemi because of that. It went back a week later. Out of the box it was backfiring out of the intake, which melted the inside of the intake runner a bit, and it was doing almost 33mph (the gps world flicker between 32 and 33), which translated to 4800rpm. And that's about where the governor wheels fly apart. Also everything about the head is inferior to the hondas, true clones and non hemis. There's no quench area, so the fuel isn't mixed as well before combustion, and both the valve orientation and valve spring installed height limit how much lift you can have (ie, the valves hit the piston at lower lift due to the angle, and the valve springs bind unless you get longer valves). Also, the non hemis come with stainless steel valves, and automotive style retainers, from factory, just with 5mm valve stems instead of the 5.5mm aftermarkets.