Question: Driven end of TAV2 right out of the box

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Lee Barker

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Specifically the TAV 30-75 from GoPower. I have read all I could find and have dealt with the shorter Predator shaft and the sheave flats alignment.

The castle nut on the driven shaft is finger loose. Not even finger tight. I can't find a torque spec for this. What needs to happen? Thanks in advance.
 
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KartFab

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what doesnt need to happen is tightening that nut. The ONLY reason that nut is on there is to keep the driven unit from sliding off. It is not to be tightened or torqued down whatsoever. If you do torque it down, you acheive the following:

1) side load to bearings, which will wear them out
2) side load to the snap-ring, which may cause it to pop out while riding

Again, do not overtighten the nut, just use a little bit of thread locker (nylock nut is okay no biggie there w/o if you are into the nylon) and tighten until it keeps everything from wiggling side to side, and not any tighter at all whatsoever end of story okay thanks bye.
 

Kentucky Boy

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If it's that loose then yes you should snug it up. I would even suggest you get a new slim nyloc nut to put on there. You should not be able to screw it all the way on by hand. A new nyloc nut will help keep it on and prevent it from loosening, which it very well can do, if it's not snug. And I mean snug, not tight as misinterpreted above.
 

wpheinz

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Tav 2 Coleman CT 200 pulls issues

The problem with my tav2 is that when I lift the rear tire of my Coleman 200 CT it works fine but when I sit on it under load neither pulley will open or closed during operation does anybody have any idea why?
 
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