Pru's 1st kart

[Functional Artist]

My 1st grand daughter just turned 3
...& at her B-day party, my oldest son asked "when are you gonna build a kart for your grand daughter?"

Well, she "is" only 3
...but, I'll see what I can come up with

Hmmm...I still have Winston's little kart in storage (I got the mini-Slingshot out too, while I was at it)
...maybe...lets take a look

Still seems ta be in pretty good shape

...but, them batteries have definitely "seen better days"

* I built this kart before I joined DIYGK
...so, there isn't a build thread
...but, there is some info about it (& others) in the My Metal thread (I've built a few more karts, in the last couple of years so, I should probably update the thread)
https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/my-metal.43116/

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Never too young, am I right?
Than'n even has a little "growin' room"
... While yer fixing them batteries maybe you can add some "safety modifications"

 

[Functional Artist]

... While yer fixing them batteries maybe you can add some "safety modifications"

I was thinkin' about makin' & installin' a battery box/cover

What else did you have in mind?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

I was thinkin' about makin' & installin' a battery box/cover

What else did you have in mind?

Just'a makin' sure the seat fits the kid, and she's not sliding around the seat.
... battery box cover is great idea

 

[Functional Artist]

All (3) of the lights in the little battery level indicator still lit up
...but, it wouldn't go

So, I dida some checkin' (with a MM)

The left battery (with corrosion on the terminal) showed 10.95V

The right battery showed 11.6V

...& together they showed 20V

So, why wouldn't it go?
Because the low voltage cut-off for a 24V system is ~21V
...& with the battery pack only showing ~20V
...they (the batteries) were already too low to "power" the system

Here is a look underneath

Yup, it has a differential rear axle (seat, diff, bearing brackets & the rear wheels are from a Simplicity rear engine riding mower)

Motivated by a 24V 450W brushed motor (~1/2HP)

Dismantled

...& the frame isa now all ready for cleanin'

 

[electraglide]

Glad the 3rd generation will be enjoying the same karts. They are holding up pretty good. Most wives will have you get rid of them after them sitting around for a while. I acquired a Razor Dune Buggy. I had the same problem it not going while all lights lit up and the level indicator was green. Also checked the battery voltage ( not quite 24v ) When I press the throttle lever it would only budge a little but would not run. Question is ... if the batteries are not fully charged ... 24v .... but once charged .... how long before it drops to 21v where it won't go anymore ? The manual says when fully charged the kart should be able to run 40 -45 minutes.

 

[Functional Artist]

Glad the 3rd generation will be enjoying the same karts. They are holding up pretty good. Most wives will have you get rid of them after them sitting around for a while.

She has cats
...& I have karts

"If ya want me ta get rid of a kart
...then, you have ta get rid of a cat"

Yea, NOT happenin'

Question is ... if the batteries are not fully charged ... 24v .... but once charged .... how long before it drops to 21v where it won't go anymore ? The manual says when fully charged the kart should be able to run 40 -45 minutes.

It really depends on the condition of the batteries

I have found that SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries need to be fully charged while in storage
...& even periodically "topped off" to maintain a full charge

If in good condition (or new) I've gotten 30-45 min of "run time" off of my SLA's

Here is my Excalibur kart
...it's motivated by a 48V 1,000W motor
...& powered by (4) 12V 12Ah SLA batteries

 

[electraglide]

She keeps cats .. you keep karts ...... I like that ..... win win situation .... the way it should be. I'll check my batteries. What AH amp-hours do you recommend ... for an hour's worth of riding. How do you calculate that. I have a 24v 300 watt motor. I'll be googling that question meantime.

 

[Functional Artist]

A 24V 300W motor is for a kids kart
...same as the 24V 450W motor in Pru's kart

IMO for a kart for a full size human (adult) a 48V system & a 1,000W motor is about the minimum (& that's only ~1.2HP)

Here is Pru's kart a few years ago (~2015) when I first built it & it was Winston's kart
(actually the very first video I posted to YouTube)

 

[electraglide]

I pick up that Razor for free. I figured my 10 year old granddaughter would like it. Is as skinny as a bean pole, don't weigh much. An electric kart is great for my neighborhood ( gated with HOA ) ...... doesn't make any noise so people won't know you'r riding it out there unless they'r peeking thru their drapes. ( got the wicked witch of the west for a neighbor ) I had my granddaughter drive the Trailmaster Mid XRX 212cc .... She was white knuckling .. bug eyed the whole time ... a real trooper. I need to dial that throttle back some.

 

[Functional Artist]

The (4) matching tires on this kart are also, from the Simplicity riding mower (& still in good shape)
...but, (1) front & (1) rear "go down" after a couple of days

I've cleaned the "bead" of the rim & tires (a couple of times)
...& resealed 'em
...but, they still loose air

So, before I "hear it" about the tires always goin' flat
...Ima just gonna install some tubes

I bought a couple of tubes for the rears
Tires on (8") rims

New (8") tubes

...& for the front, Ima thinkin' that I can "borrow" the tubes out of the wheels of an old power washer I just dismantled

Kart tire on (4") rims

Power washer tire also, on (4") rims

 

[Functional Artist]

Getting 'er scuffed up
Glossy

Not so glossy

Feathering some of the "nicks & scratches" (ta try-n-get 'em ta blend in)

Found a spot I musta missed during the last paint job (under the steering hoop)

 

[Functional Artist]

Installing tubes in the rear tires

First, (carefully) cut off old valve stem (the new tube comes with its own valve stem)

Then, break the bead (tire to rim)
...& push (1) side of the tire downwards (into the lower portion of the rim)

Then, gently pry (with a couple of flat head screwdrivers) the other side of the tire (the side away from the pushed downwards side) off of the rim

Make sure the tire is "clean inside" (no debris that can damage the new tube)
...& then, insert the new tube

* Make sure to push the valve stem thru the hole in the rim
...& install the valve cap (so it can't fall back thru during tire installation)

** When first airing the new tube up in the tire, I've been told to air it up ~1/2 way & then, deflate
...then, air it up again (fully) to seat the tire beads
...& deflate again (this helps any wrinkles in the tube to smooth out)
...then, inflate fully (as per the listing on the tire)

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Installing tubes in the rear tires

First, (carefully) cut off old valve stem (the new tube comes with its own valve stem)
View attachment 139271
Then, break the bead (tire to rim)
...& push (1) side of the tire downwards (into the lower portion of the rim)
View attachment 139272
Then, gently pry (with a couple of flat head screwdrivers) the other side of the tire (the side away from the pushed downwards side) off of the rim
View attachment 139273
Make sure the tire is "clean inside" (no debris that can damage the new tube)
...& then, insert the new tube

* Make sure to push the valve stem thru the hole in the rim
...& install the valve cap (so it can't fall back thru during tire installation)
View attachment 139274
** When first airing the new tube up in the tire, I've been told to air it up ~1/2 way & then, deflate
...then, air it up again (fully) to seat the tire beads
...& deflate again (this helps any wrinkles in the tube to smooth out)
...then, inflate fully (as per the listing on the tire)
View attachment 139276

How’d ya break the bead on yours? I might have to run mine over. Seems like a good method.

 

[Functional Artist]

How’d ya break the bead on yours? I might have to run mine over. Seems like a good method.

I was just able to jump up & down on them a couple of times
...but, most times you have ta be a bit more aggressive

 

[Functional Artist]

Workin' on the front tires was goin' along fine
...dismount tire
...installed the tube
...remount tire
...but, when I went ta air 'er up, the air just came-a back out

The valve stem, on my used/re-purposed tube, broke at the base

The other one hasn't broke (yet) but, doesn't look much better

* Seemed like a good idea at the time
&
Yup, I just ordered (2) new tubes

 

[Functional Artist]

Pru's kart is BLUE

Another view

Well ~95% BLUE anyways

* I left the rear "swing arm", steering shaft & spindles on the frame
...this is so these pieces/parts & their nuts & bolts would all get painted uniformly
...& also, to help reduce the chances of scuffin' &/or scratchin' them during reassembly

** Also, I propped & painted 'er this way because I wanted to get a good coat of paint on the bottom
...& into all of the "nooks & crannies" (technical term) first

UM...don't look at the welds (from ~10 yrs. ago) I wasa just learnin" (sometimes it looks like I still am)
...but, I must say none of 'em have broken (so far)

I used to help my father paint cars back in the '90's
...& he would always paint the bottom edges & all of the door jambs & seams, first

After a day (or 2) we would re-clean & scuff the entire vehicle
...& then, he would lay down/give 'er a nice glassy paint job

Oh, they were so beautiful-the memories-it almost makes me cry-actually it does)

Here is another pic

In a couple of days, I'll sit 'er down normal
...&...do my best...dad!

 

[Functional Artist]

After a few days, I layed 'er down (level)
...& scuffed 'er up good

Used some air ta blow the dust off & outta the cracks-n-crevice's
...then, wiped 'er down with some "cheap" non-aggressive, de-greaser (rubbing alcohol)

Let 'er dry for a bit
...& gave 'er a nice-n-shiny coat of blue

Up close view

From another angle

Shinny

The key switch holder

Yup, I didn't miss paintin' up under the steering hoop (this time)

So, Pru's kart is now officially BLUE

 

[Functional Artist]

While the paint wasa curin' good, I looked into replacing the steering "wheel"

The original "handle bar" I made up & installed years ago, didn't turn (he..he) out, to be such a good idea
...'cause when turning "it" intruded into the drivers leg

It worked
...but, severely restricted the turning radius (especially as Winston got bigger/older)

So, I rounded up a few options

This one was dished way too deep (wouldn't leave any room for the driver)

This one was a bit better

I think Ima likin' this one (leaves lotsa room for the driver)

Plus, this kart has hand controls (throttle & brakes)
...so, "if" using the steering wheels, extra work would have been required

* Notice the (2) "nubs" on the top of each side?

The left one, is for mounting the Brake Lever
...& the right one, is for mounting a Thumb Throttle

* Also, notice, I made a Hub ta get 'er mounted

I used a big washer (with some holes drilled in 'er)
...a short piece of 5/8" rod (alignment tool)
...& a little piece of pipe (5/8" ID)

 

[Functional Artist]

Steering Wheel to Pitman Alignment

First, I squared up the Pitman Arm

Then, made sure the steering wheel was nice-n-even

...on both sides (it's the camera angle, they are even)
After squarin' everything up, I used a "set screw" ta "lock in" the "setting"

* Notice the "cut outs" (in the piece of pipe) that will allow the weldin' to penetrate into the lower area
...which will help "lock" all (3) pieces together

Then, simply clamped 'er down, to the workbench, for weldin'