(PROJECT) Rupp Dart restomod

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Fast Eddie

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Thanks for the help Ander and Russ! I'll check out the info from EC when I can get a little computer time. These eBay carbs could be a good option $$-wise if they will work.

Russ, any downside to a float-type carb...performance wise? Most racers run diaphragm-type carbs. Lateral G's?

We've discussed slide-bore (Mikuni) type carbs before. They're inexpensive, could they be a possiblity? I can't remember if you ruled them out for some reason and I couldn't find our previous discussion regarding 'em.

EDIT: SORRY FOR THE LACK OF PICS LATELY. NOTHING REALLY PICTURE-WORTHY TO POST. PICTURE UPDATES COMING SOON.
 

Russ2251

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I don't rule anything out...if it works-it works, including bowl carbs.
Sometimes it takes trial and error.
I think it was just dumb luck that my Tillotsons worked after trying several Walbro carbs.
 

VoodooChild

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I recently got a job in a machine shop, and finally have access to a lathe and mill. So i'm gonna try and make some headway on lawn boys as well (the v engine i believe is what i have, no duraforce as i can't seem to find any, plus i've got enough other projects to take up majority of my funds) I also have two 50's or 60's jacobsen 321 engines that have reed valves, that I'm going to tear into to see if i could make some respectable horse power out of. but my first order of business is getting this piston ported lawn boy on my 1979 motobecane moped to get it back on the road. A few questions for Russ and Fast Eddie
1. did you settle on a 3/16" x 3/16" for the key way?
2.what size hole/threads did you put in the end of the shaft
3. what is the total length of the PTO after machining
4. What is the length of the 3/4" shaft?
Any info would be greatly appreciated, and save me some trial and error. Although it looks like i'll have about 4 of these engines to toy with. One crank for sure is going down to .6 of an inch to fit a CVT that i pulled off a 70's honda scooter (this will hopefully be for the moped, as im not looking for crazy acceleration, but i do want as much power and top speed as possible for driving around the streets) The other few will probably go toward a multi engined go kart (with this acess to a machine shop, i could probably make a collar to connect the two engines if i wanted, but more on that subject later)
Thanks!
 

Fast Eddie

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New updates with pics!

Hello all!

Sorry it's been so long. I have several excuses, none of which I'll bore you with. So with the good weather, it's time to git some Dart time in!

Had to deal with the issue of a 2nd motor mount plate. Been in contact with someone who was going to fab one for me, but after waiting for a few weeks, I decided to take a look at the two mounts I still have.



Both are kinda rough, but I think the black one would work the best. I know some of you are saying "why is he so worried about the plate? It'll be covered by the motor mount." Well, I'm not sure how much of the plates will be visible, so I'd rather be safe than sorry. Besides, I'm enjoying the practice!

Hacked the frame off close to the mount to make some room. Lotsa cutting and grinding ahead!



After some time, I got the mount cleaned of all that mess. Now I gotta deal with the second set of mounting holes I drilled back when I was 12. Someone told me that welding wire does not stick to copper. So I hammered a little piece of copper pipe flat and clamped it under the hole to be filled.



And Viola! It worked like a dream!



And after a few minutes of grinding, my pre-teen hack job is gone!



Finished up the other three holes and spent some time cleaning it up. Didn't turn out too bad.







Also did some cleanup on the frame. The sheetmetal seatback and sides were just tacked in a few spots around the perimeter. That seam will be visible, so I ran a continous bead and ground it smooth. Took my time and didn't warp the sheetmetal at all.



Finished welding and cleaning up the steering shaft and arms.




So that's about it for now. I'll keep working on it now and keep posting these ridiculusly mundane pictures of minimal progress...but it's therapy for me.

Oh yeah, I also fabbed up a custom chain tensioner for my best buddies HeathKit Boonie Bike with a Torq-A-Verter. Keeps pitching the chain. Made it out of a junkyard serpentine belt tensioner, a #35 idler sprocket, and some scrap metal. Not too bad, huh? Mounts underneath the motor plate.

 

T-man

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yeah eddie, that is looking good. It is always good to take the time to clean up with a grinder and wire wheel, It makes the job look better and it showes that you care about what your doing. Thumbs up.
 

Ken

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Nice welding work Eddie! I really like the cleanup on the seat. On my K, interestingly enough, the seat tubing has five holes for upholstery snaps. Did you fill yours or are mine a later modification?

Keep the updates coming. I enjoy reading them even if it does make me feel humbled by comparison.
 

Fast Eddie

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Thanks Ken. No, mine didn't have seat snaps. I'm not a big fan of that look anyway. Dude, I totally forgot to get you pics of the steering shaft and steering wheel. Sorry. You still interested? I have your steering hoop, too. I'll be over in GR on July 4th, or if you need it earlier my sister in Rockford will be over here this weekend. I can send her back with the stuff.

Had to throw on the rear axle to get a reference for the mount plate to sit straight on the chassis. So I tossed on wheels to she how she sits on the ground. Nice to have her close to a roller.







Probably not the rear axle I'm going to use. Stock is 36", which is too narrow for the twins. This one is a 41", which is way too wide I think. After some measuring, I can squeeze a 38" axle in and just clear the recoil on engine #2 by about an inch. This pic shows just how wide the axle is.



Thats all for now. Giddyup!
 

newrider3

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IMO the wide rear looks nice. Just don't hit too many speedbumps at WOT or it might get a bit bent, lol.
 

manco606

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that thing turned out pretty sweet, and on page 6 i couldnt help but notice your grinder. is that from harbor freight. nothiung beats a $13 grinder, eh. :D
 

Ken

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Thanks Ken. No, mine didn't have seat snaps. I'm not a big fan of that look anyway. Dude, I totally forgot to get you pics of the steering shaft and steering wheel. Sorry. You still interested? I have your steering hoop, too. I'll be over in GR on July 4th, or if you need it earlier my sister in Rockford will be over here this weekend. I can send her back with the stuff.

Sure, I'm still interested. Send pics. And I have a lot of stuff to do before July 4 so I can wait until then for the hoop; no problem.

Your kart looks great! Agreed the 41" looks a little wide, but the 38 will be perfect with two engines. I'm staying as a single (although I do have two mounting plates) so I'll retain the 36."
 

Fast Eddie

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Thanks again for the kind words guys.

It's nice to have cleaned up welds, but if they're no good, it means nothing. I've really focused on good weld penetration. It's tough with a 110V flux-core machine, but if you take your time and make sure the machine is adjusted correctly it's not too hard.

Yeah, thats a HF grinder. I bought three. Less hassle to change between grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, and flap discs. Plus they are cheap Chinese junk so I figure by dividing the workload between three maybe they'll last a little while. I hate buying junk tools, but I wanted to keep my initial fabrication tool investment low.

Scored something interesting yesterday...



Aluminum air tank (obviously). My brother is a Firefighter. They retire these after a certain period of time and exchange them. This one couldn't be exchanged for some reason, so they gave it to me. Why you ask? It's about 1/2" thick aluminum. I could get a couple of really cool chainguards out of it! My "L" shaped motor mounts are 1/2" aluminum. I could cut something like this and weld it right to the side plate of the mount.



Thick stuff! (assuming it's the same thickness throughout)



Overall tank DIA may be too big, but hey...it was free.
 

Hendersonjk

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I bet itll be closter to 1/8th or 1/4" not saying it wont be a half inch but the seel ones we cut up around the shop were 1/4 I think. too bad you bought a gas tank that woulda made a sweet one
 

donzi23

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Man Eddie that thing is sure looking sweet. Thanks to you, I got my axle brackets yesterday. Thanks for the link. Hope you will be able to send me measurements soon.
 

Fast Eddie

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I bet itll be closter to 1/8th or 1/4" not saying it wont be a half inch but the seel ones we cut up around the shop were 1/4 I think. too bad you bought a gas tank that woulda made a sweet one

I think 1/4" could be okay. I'm thinkin' the DIA is too big. I think it'll run into the exhaust port. Not sure yet. Priced out some SCH80 5" DIA Al pipe. $60 for 10"! Definately going to try to make this tank work. That would be a huge gas tank! And even though it's Aluminum, it's heavy.

Man Eddie that thing is sure looking sweet. Thanks to you, I got my axle brackets yesterday. Thanks for the link. Hope you will be able to send me measurements soon.

Thanks Donzi. Glad to hear he still had 'em. I'm jealous...I like yours better! Did he have any other Rupp parts? I'll get you measurements ASAP.
 

Stratogeezer

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I'll be using parts I had for the Dingo, and the motors won't be some rare McCullochs. Maybe a newer motor, like a Stihl or Homelite (any suggestions?). Any suggestions, comments, etc., are greatly appreciated.

QUOTE]

Very cool! I have a similar kart I'm brining back to life (versus an actual restoration) that is either a Rupp or Hamilton. One suggestion on the engine - assuming you're not going to necessarily stick to a vintage restoration. I took that same blue clone engine that you've got and did some of the standard modifications (cam, springs, remove governer, etc) - and it is amazing how much power I get out it now.

Good luck with yours - looks great.
 

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