Project: I have no Idea what to call it

[doubter123]

Well I have finally started my go kart/mini buggy project. Now the first thing I expect to be yelled at for is the metal being used for the frame, but I have no job right now and therefore no money and this metal was out at my grandparents and I was like "hey I can make a go kart out of that."

So well the metal is 2x4 tubing with 1/4 in walls so it is well a bit overkill for any kart project.

My idea is for it to be 7 ft over all with 4 ft sitting area and 3 ft swingarm and it to be 3 ft wide. I haven't decided which setup for front suspension I want yet so I'll see how that turns out.

For power I plan to use a snowmobile setup such as Killdozer or mysteryboy28 to power it since where I live I can get a running snowmobile for around $100-500 where an industrial engine with torque converter would be around $600

Sorry for the long post and here are some pics of the metal I am using, my frame idea, welder, coolest pencil sharpener ever, and my various assortments of griders I have. Actually I have 5 more grinders than what is shown.

 

[Amped]

That will be one HEAVY duty frame . You could reduce the weight by drilling speed holes in the frame. If you do I would plug the holes with silicon , smooth flush and remove excess from surface. Layout should be carefully thought out. You dont want to weaken the frame just lighten it up. you should prep for paint before silicon too. It would take a lot of work but would help your overall power to weight ratio. Its an idea anyway.

 

[landuse]

Yup, one heavy kart!! But if that is all the metal you go, then go for it! It looks like you have a good start

We used to have those pencil sharpeners at school. They were the best. If you wanted to, you could grind your pencil to nothing in just a few seconds

 

[souperman000]

Maybe you could lend Mysteryboy one of your grinders. I hear he is in the market for one.

I have never had too much luck with those kind of sharpeners. I prefer electric ones

 

[B.M.800]

Speaking of pencil sharpeners, none better than:

 

[exenos]

Your going to want to make sure you have reverse on a kart that heavy if you plan on being anywhere tight.

It was a little odd on the first day of gr11 when my math teacher whipped out a freaking bowie knife because he didn't have a sharpener.

 

[doubter123]

I might do the hole drilling thing that is a good idea. Also I have so many grinders since my uncle is a pipe welder he goes through a lot of grinders so he gives us his used ones but they are still better than the harbor freight ones since all of his are name brands such as Dewalt.

 

[doubter123]

Ok I think I will drill holes with a hole saw at consistent intervals since I don't think that will affect the structural integrity that much

 

[doubter123]

Well didn't get anything done today and won't get anything done till the weekend since I need to get some more supplies from my grandparents house since my grandpa has a lot of metal working tools that I can definitely use. But tomorrow I will probably sand down the axle since I also got it from there.

 

[Amped]

Ok I think I will drill holes with a hole saw at consistent intervals since I don't think that will affect the structural integrity that much

Just make sure to plug the holes with a light weight material . If you don't they will allow dirt mud and water in.Which adds weight . And dried mud is really hard to remove from inside a drilled rail. I've had few bog trucks that I boxed the stock frame to reduce twist caused by big motor tires and gearing . I then cut speed holes to reduce weight .I had to use a pressure washer and a plumber snake. only took about 6 hrs til water flowed clear. Started welding 18 gauge plates over cut outs.
Tip: Use the old oil from car after oil change as a drill bit lub to save bits and money.
I don't think a holesaw is the best thing to use for metal that thick. drill the holes before weld up using reg bits starting small stepping up afew sizes at a time. I 'd use a drill press if you have access to one.You can drill a 4 sides too.

 

[doubter123]

thanks for the info and the car oil is ideal since I am going to change my truck's oil in the next few days.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Don't put gobs of silicone in your frame. It's so ghetto, and youll use a ton of it. If you are going to cut in speed holes, weld sections of thinwall tube into the holes.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

A good bi-metal holesaw will be fine, as long as you keep it well-lubed and keep the speed VERY slow (like 250 RPM). Don't force it- let the saw do the work, and keep it square. Don't rock or tilt the drill.

 

[Amped]

Don't put gobs of silicone in your frame. It's so ghetto, and youll use a ton of it. If you are going to cut in speed holes, weld sections of thinwall tube into the holes.

It is a bit getto. If you put thin wall tube your holes will need to be lined up on both sides and welded in adding wight back in but it would look great. I pictured 1/2" holes in my head when suggesting this reducing the getto-ness . If the holes are on the bottom and inside under the floorboard they wont be seen.You said you were budget building , with the size of your frame size 1 tube would probably be enough but if you plan on bigger holes like 1 inch don't use silcone. Do a test piece with 1" -1 1/2" holes and same size conduit . Weight it before you drill and after you weld to determine weight difference . Do you understand the idea?

 

[doubter123]

I think I understand. I have some left over pieces that I will try this on first before I go and start cutting holes in my frame. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[GregMartin]

A good bi-metal holesaw will be fine, as long as you keep it well-lubed and keep the speed VERY slow (like 250 RPM). Don't force it- let the saw do the work, and keep it square. Don't rock or tilt the drill.

I agree. Best done in a drill press I think I saw one in one of your photos.

 

[Doc Sprocket]

It is a bit getto. If you put thin wall tube your holes will need to be lined up on both sides and welded in adding wight back in but it would look great. I pictured 1/2" holes in my head when suggesting this reducing the getto-ness . If the holes are on the bottom and inside under the floorboard they wont be seen.You said you were budget building , with the size of your frame size 1 tube would probably be enough but if you plan on bigger holes like 1 inch don't use silcone. Do a test piece with 1" -1 1/2" holes and same size conduit . Weight it before you drill and after you weld to determine weight difference . Do you understand the idea?

Given the ridiculous weight potential of this project, I would suggest making those holes as big as can be managed, and lots of them... And trust me, with tube that big and thick, there is NO risk of buggering up the structural integrity.

 

[doubter123]

Yeah I plan on making 2" holes in the sides and 1/2" holes in the top and bottom

 

[Amped]

I'd be interested in seeing some pics of the tests. Done right it will give a cool custom look.

 

[doubter123]

Yeah that is what I was thinking too I should have it done by sunday but monday at the latest