I read halfway through to page two & I've seen enough...
Not quite the same animal but, same idea, I've had a stock[/i] B&S blow up a governor gear & another throw a rod; then I've had a Honda GX160 with stock internals, governor removed & some head work scare the pants off me which still runs hard it gets punished & asks for more...
In the case of the governor gear explosion, the reason was obvious, a poorly adjusted governor linkage caused overrevving which destroyed the engine; the rod failure? Who knows? The governor was intact & correctly adjusted & had been running as such for years without issue, the only possible explanations are low oil or wear & tear...
Here's the facts:
-stock conrods are only tested as safe to ~5500rpm
-governor gears are only tested as safe to ~4500rpm
-stock valve springs flutter/float/bounce at ~5200rpm
By adjusting/disabling the governor, you run the risk of destroying the engine but, here's another interesting fact: no matter what engine, whether it be a 212cc predator or a big block Chev, as soon as you modify it, you run the risk of destroying the engine; you will definitelyshorten its lifespan...
On a side note, replacing the stock, cast iron flywheel for a billet aluminium version has very little to do with the possibility of breakage at high RPM; if you notice, most kits including a billet flywheel advise keeping the governor intact, therefore, negating the high RPM risk; the main reason for replacing the governor is because the engine can spin up faster with the lighter flywheel, giving you more low end torque...