Predator Performance question

[outcrydrummer]

Well I'm a little late in this but here's my 2 pennies.

That's was my b&s that grenaded.

I had a different carb and the governor linkages had already been removed. The only thing was the shaft out the case. I tied it off so it wouldn't rotate. I don't know if the internals were damaged or not before I flogged it but it did give way and ruined my day.

My other engine came to me stock. I installed my carb but left all the governor linkages and springs attached. The insides think their working.

I have since hopped it up with head work and open exhaust. Recently got a tach and I run it at 4000 to 4500 constantly. It will hit 6k on the stand.

Still holding in there.

I'm waiting to open it up for a cam and Conrod.

I'm thinking the free spin on the plactic or the weights allowing to slam out from a disabled unit causes distruction.

Keeping tention on the mech might help keep it together.

How long have you been running that setup for now? Just curious if your getting the longevity I have out of my governors that were adjusted.

Thanks for your input

 

[chancer]

Chancer I got ya covered there to. I just removed the governor from my other engine for that tutorial. Just need to throw oil in it and I'll let it rip with the tach installed.
Looks like I got a fun weekend ahead of me

So if the Predator survives your first torture test...
Do some testing and see what RPM the Gov Kicks in at each different hole.
Would be nice to have that info.

 

[outcrydrummer]

Chancer I plan to move it around the holes and document rpm differences in the first video before the torture test.......in case it doesn't survive lol

 

[Bbqjoe]

I'm apt to believe the gov doesn't blow up, but comes off the spindle when the gov arm inside holding it in place is left to move freely.

 

[outcrydrummer]

^^^^^ What I was thinking as well after really considering what movement it might have without the rod.

Which would explain why the engines that have had them come apart have typically been with the governor arm disabled.

---------- Post added at 12:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:37 AM ----------

Well I'm a little late in this but here's my 2 pennies.

That's was my b&s that grenaded.

I had a different carb and the governor linkages had already been removed. The only thing was the shaft out the case. I tied it off so it wouldn't rotate. I don't know if the internals were damaged or not before I flogged it but it did give way and ruined my day.

My other engine came to me stock. I installed my carb but left all the governor linkages and springs attached. The insides think their working.

I have since hopped it up with head work and open exhaust. Recently got a tach and I run it at 4000 to 4500 constantly. It will hit 6k on the stand.

Still holding in there.

I'm waiting to open it up for a cam and Conrod.

I'm thinking the free spin on the plactic or the weights allowing to slam out from a disabled unit causes distruction.

Keeping tention on the mech might help keep it together.

And am I reading this correctly????
The engine you had a failure on was not a predator but was a briggs and straton with the governor arm disabled.
The predator you have now with the governor gear in tact has survived high rpm?
Just want to clarify this.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

OCD.
The first engine was a briggs 9hp vanguard. I blew it up, got a second kart with same engine. That's the one I'm running un-governed but still attached to springs. Just no throttle control.

I have pics of the distruction in a thread called Governor bypass Carnage. And the whole story In my build log A tale of two Dingos.

Engine one lasted maybe 5 hours till it kicked the bucket. Engine 2 I probably have 50 hours I'm guessing here. I ride probably every other day for a good average of an hour or so. I can go back and see a date on some pics and give a better time line.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Quite possibly the ABSOLUTE WORST advice I've come across since I've joined this forum!!!!!

ADJUST THE GOVERNOR TO 5K?????

GREAT IDEA! Nothing more fun than grenading an engine. You don't have to know much or search much here before you can see what a BAD idea that is!

In the future, please post advice you know a little about.

Maybe NOT! This may turn out to be the BEST advice...time will tell. If so, I don't have a problem in the World with that!

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Ok. Time line of some sorts.
Engine 1 I got in late March. Kart went full tear down. Engine needed carb. It ran the way I got it. Finished gas tank in late May. 20th is the pic date.
The blow up was on June 4 or 5. So it looks likes about 2 weeks. Maybe 5 to 10 hours.

Remember I did not know the internals condition. It made no noise and no interference while running, so I just ran it.

Engine 2 came to me stock. Previous owner did nothing but add gas and drive.

It looks like I had the second engine running by August 30.
That's been 5 months now. If I stick to say the 5 to 10 hours a week, that's 20 to 40 hours a month, 100 plus hours?

**** no wonder my tires are showing cords. That's alot of sideways. Lol.

 

[Kartorbust]

Outcry, any ideas how long the gov could last at higher rpms?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Outcry, any ideas how long the gov could last at higher rpms?

Perhaps a fail test is in order.
Who has an electric motor that they can vary and accurately verify rpm?

I'm sure there are lots of unwanted govoner parts laying around.

Spin one till it flies apart.

---------- Post added at 09:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 AM ----------

The gear ratio at which it spins according to the actual engine rpm would need to be know also. But that's not hard

 

[outcrydrummer]

Im hoping the predator survival test will be good enough to hopefully shed some light on expected life. I think running 4800 rpm non stop would be equivalent to 4 or 5 times the time with normal riding conditions.....possibly more.

I have an electric motor or two but no way to verify the rpm or make it realistic. Would need the arm in place....oil splash.....heat etc to really match engine conditions

 

[Poboy kartman]

Im hoping the predator survival test will be good enough to hopefully shed some light on expected life. I think running 4800 rpm non stop would be equivalent to 4 or 5 times the time with normal riding conditions.....possibly more.

I have an electric motor or two but no way to verify the rpm or make it realistic. Would need the arm in place....oil splash.....heat etc to really match engine conditions

EXACTLY! To clarify: to approach this in a scientific and analytical manner, real world conditions need to at least be replicated.

To put it another way: consider a wire wheel. Spin it 10,000 rpms for a week. Count the number of bristles that come loose. Now spin it for 30 mins. at the same rpm while in contact with a surface. What do you think the results will be?

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

I clearly need to finsh my dyno project. I'm busy trying to get my daughter situated ATM, but I'll get back on it when things slow down a little.

 

[outcrydrummer]

I picked up the tach and some fuel line so i shoulf be good to do some testing tomorrow.
Dont have a predator coupon right now so the survival test might have to wait til next weekend.

 

[TheYamahaKID]

Im taking bets

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

$20 on success here. Anyone giving odds?

 

[Kartorbust]

I got $15 on a pretty good run.

 

[outcrydrummer]

Hey you guys have some good ideas LOL. I like the bets. We still need to set a run time limit to establish success.
2 hours?
5 hours?
6 hours?
10 hours?
24 hours?
48 hours?

Lets be realistic and try to fairly establish an adequate amount of time for the governor to fail.

And if the engine fails (rod, block, piston, head, etc before the governor does I think should make it a clear winner )

Whats your guys thoughts. Start throwing out numbers.

---------- Post added at 07:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:32 PM ----------

Luckily the tach also has an hour meter so I will verify zero hours on meter before the start of the test.
In fairness I will also idle the engine for 5 minutes before setting to 4800 rpm to allow the entire engine to warm. This will happen after each refill of the tank or oil change ( that depends on how long were running in total obviously).

 

[Poboy kartman]

Hmmm...I'll take on all comers that one I modify will loose the rod first!

I saw an inspirational YouTube video about bending cardboard, and I have a hacksaw with a backwards blade!

 

[chancer]

No coupon!!! Check your email. I got new ones today!
Here you go.