Hey I have a few questions about removing the governer, so I have the Hemi model, I’m wanting to know if I will need to get a new gasket prior to this or will I beable to use the original gasket? I also would like to know if I would beable to only remove the gear and the small clips and leave the governer arm inside of the engine, or would that mess with the shaft and gears? I don’t want to have to thread it and put a bolt inside of the engine cut it off and every few days make sure the nut is still tight! Thanks for the feed back!!
Predator 212cc
- Thread starter Mintse
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I Just recently removed the governor on mine, and replaced the stock rod. I had maybe 2 hours or runtime on the engine before I did it and the original side cover gasket looked fine. I had ordered one in case anyway, and you could use gasket maker.
As for the holes, just plug them. I believe the governor arm hole can be easily taped to 1/4, and the oil sensor to 7/16. Can use the original washer (on oil sensor) or gasket maker with loctite to make sure it doesn't come out. I'm new to all this but I much rather insert the bolt from the outside to make sure it never drops into the block.
As for the holes, just plug them. I believe the governor arm hole can be easily taped to 1/4, and the oil sensor to 7/16. Can use the original washer (on oil sensor) or gasket maker with loctite to make sure it doesn't come out. I'm new to all this but I much rather insert the bolt from the outside to make sure it never drops into the block.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Most of the time I can reuse the sidecover gasket. It upsets me when I tear one and need to replace it. The gasket material I have isn't the same thickness and if you use RTV or some gasket maker goop, your crankshaft endplay might be affected.
If going to leave the shaft and arm after removing the governor gear, you may want to cut the shaft that extends into the block. The shaft goes straight down, then bends. I'd cut it above the bend and put it back in.
If you thread the hole, you don't use a nut so you don't have to worry about anything falling into the engine. If the bolt comes loose and backs out, you might spray some oil - but it won't be the end of the world unless you don't notice oil all over your engine and continue to run it without checking oil levels. Check oil levels every time you ride!
My favorite item to put in that hole is a 1/16 Male NPT x 1/4" hose barb 90* Elbow. Vent the block to a catch can using this fitting in that hole. The tap was like $3 or $4 online. The fitting was hard to find and was like $10 shipped IIRC
Otherwise I've used 1/4-20 bolts. 3/4" long should be perfect IIRC. Use some loctite and it'll be fine.
If going to leave the shaft and arm after removing the governor gear, you may want to cut the shaft that extends into the block. The shaft goes straight down, then bends. I'd cut it above the bend and put it back in.
If you thread the hole, you don't use a nut so you don't have to worry about anything falling into the engine. If the bolt comes loose and backs out, you might spray some oil - but it won't be the end of the world unless you don't notice oil all over your engine and continue to run it without checking oil levels. Check oil levels every time you ride!
My favorite item to put in that hole is a 1/16 Male NPT x 1/4" hose barb 90* Elbow. Vent the block to a catch can using this fitting in that hole. The tap was like $3 or $4 online. The fitting was hard to find and was like $10 shipped IIRC
Otherwise I've used 1/4-20 bolts. 3/4" long should be perfect IIRC. Use some loctite and it'll be fine.
Tpdingo
Member
Well bypassed and removed does the same thing as long as you are fully bypassing it. Removing only ensures that at high RPMs the plastic gear doesn't shatter and destroy the motor with the metal parts attached to it.
You can use an online calculator for getting the speed. Enter in your tire size, your gear ratio.(Assume the T/C is one to one w/ no slip), and use 5500RPM for the engine speed.
You can use an online calculator for getting the speed. Enter in your tire size, your gear ratio.(Assume the T/C is one to one w/ no slip), and use 5500RPM for the engine speed.
anickode
Active member
Bypassing the gov altogether yields the same rpm as removing it. The advantage of completely removing it is that it's not still inside your crankcase to explode from the increased RPM.
With the gear ratio that you have, 40 mph is about all you can expect out of a stock 6.5hp Engine with the governor removed, and assuming an average weight go kart and an average weight Rider. It doesn't matter what you do with the gear ratio, or what you do to make the engine spin faster, you just won't get any more speed until you increase the rev limit AND hp.
From this point, doing an exhaust header, intake, and jet will increase your acceleration some, but won't really increase your top speed. To get a higher top speed from here, you'll have to do a Billet flywheel and connecting rod, and valve springs (among a bunch of other things) to make your engine safely spin faster.
Tpdingo
Member
1: How fast do you want to go?
2: A 420cc engine with a removed govenor runs just as fast as a 212, just creating more torque to accelerate you faster. You want more RPM, and the only way to create that is by modding the engine with billet parts, heavier valves and better cams.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Which goes faster?
An 8.1 lb*ft peak TQ 212 spinning 8k RPM with 8:1 gear ratio or an 18.4 lb*ft 420 spinning 4k RPM with 4 :1 gear ratio?
They go the same speed. More displacement means more torque. More torque at the crank means you need less gear to provide the same torque at the wheels.
So bigger engines should be able to go faster than their small block counterparts. You just need to gear for it.
Well My go kart goes pretty much the speed I would like for it to go, I’d like to hit 50 mph, this is a lawn kart I’m talking about with stupidly huge back tires, I’m looking for a go kart that can go off road but still beable to drift or do donuts on the black top, im not exactly sure how to do that, should I invest into smaller tires? Right now from pavement to top of the tire is like 20 inches, they are like huge lawn mower tires lol
Tpdingo
Member
You won't be able to go 50MPH and do donuts on blacktop. You either need to gear high to go fast or gear low to break the tires loose. And a torque converter doesn't nearly have enough of a ratio change to do it.
Kansaskart
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I always leave the governor paddle in that way I can use the stock throttle hookups all it requires is a snap back spring. All the governor linkage stays the same. Way easier. On the oil sensor I only remove the wires, push back the rubber grommet and fill it with gasket maker let it dry 1 day. I've done this to at least 6 engines and have never had a single problem. If you don't want to wait on a gasket and need one just go get the black oil resistant high temp gasket maker. I have engines holding up for years in all weather with no leaks. I found all the business of removing the governor arm, making your own linkage, etc a complete waste of time and unnecessary.
Well I mean I had the axle sprocket at a 54T and when I changed t to a 48T it increased my top speed by like 4 mph, and I can do power slides with it right now, so are you saying I should get a configural clutch instead of the TC? I had bought it with a TC on the old engine, from what it looks like to me, it seems it was one of those cheap amazon ones, not like a 20,30, or 40 series TC
Kansaskart
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Not trying to step on your toes but I have to disagree with you. You're forgetting that things change under load. My light kart with 5:1 and a 212 with no governor isn't as fast top end than my heavier kart that has a 420 with no governor that's 6:1 by a few mph.
Okay so basically, I need to get a configural clutch, with around a 10-12T sprocket with my 48T on the axle then put smaller tires and a 420cc engine with go governer and do the stage 1 kit and I should beable to drift do donuts and still go off road with higher top speed lol?
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