Predator 212cc Worksman Adaptable motortrike

[StabbyJoe89]

Yes. The extra air that the intake allows need a little more fuel. Not to worry though it is easy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VDqC6390s8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFNjClKkmf4

So adding an exhaust/muffler also increases the air intake? I'm not looking to add anything to the engine except an exhaust and muffler. All the other performance stuff like filter/intake, springs, and jets I plan to do later once I have more monies =p. For now I just want it to be quiet in traffic. Would installing just an exhaust/muffler require changing jets too??

 

[chancer]

Sorry I misread your question where you posted the pic. Cause there is an intake in the pic. lol

But anyway the stock muffler is quieter than the one in your pic.

But NO. Just changing the Muffler will not require rejetting.

 

[StabbyJoe89]

Sorry I misread your question where you posted the pic. Cause there is an intake in the pic. lol

But anyway the stock muffler is quieter than the one in your pic.

But NO. Just changing the Muffler will not require rejetting.

Awesome, thanks! I'll definitely save those videos for a few months from now when I do that =). Ah =/ I had assumed the extra length would quiet things. In that case is there any way to make the stock muffler quieter??

 

[Poboy kartman]

Fit a stock muffler from a larger engine onto the 212.

 

[chancer]

Just like a muffler off a Ford Escort or something.

 

[StabbyJoe89]

Nice, I'll start looking for one. Thanks so much for all the help guys =). I really appreciate it, I was really lost before this lol. I feel like next step is to start buying parts and building. I'll shoot an update as things get moving =)

Plamen

 

[Poboy kartman]

Just like a muffler off a Ford Escort or something.

IDK.....I think I better go check the Escort to make sure it's bigger than the 212.

 

[bob58o]

With 9:1 and a torque converter, I don't think you should have to worry about pedaling.

---------- Post added at 10:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------

Bob something you may have missed earlier in this thread. From Mckutzy.
Would it effect the needed gear ratio?

The tall skinny bike tires are making a very small contact patch with the ground, should cause very little resistance. Would these require less initial Torque to get moving. Compared to big Fat 20" kart/buggy tires. Therefore allowing a taller gear.

I don't see why width of tire would change gear ratio.
Weight of wheels, maybe? But width alone????

Radius is important.

Too much torque may spin the tires with little contact surface area????????
That resistance is the static friction between the tire and road (Traction).

That is not the same as the force needed to start moving from a stop? Is it?

 

[Poboy kartman]

With 9:1 and a torque converter, I don't think you should have to worry about pedaling.

---------- Post added at 10:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------



I don't see why width of tire would change gear ratio.
Weight of wheels, maybe? But width alone????

Radius is important.

Too much torque may spin the tires with little contact surface area????????
That resistance is the static friction between the tire and road (Traction).

That is not the same as the force needed to start moving from a stop? Is it?

Yeah....even though it has NO contact with the pavement....only the resistance of the axle.....you can see it takes much more torque to get the "big wheel" on the price is right moving than a roulette wheel.

Yes....it has WAY more mass...but isn't that the point? That it's the energy to move mass with a large wheel vs. a small one?

And worse yet...improper gearing means you don't get to grab the wheel where everbody else does....but near the center!

 

[StabbyJoe89]

Hey guys, I ended up ordering everything and it's slowly trickling in. Final parts should come in end of this week, start of next week. I'm gonna start assembling everything this week.

I just had some questions about oil and gas. I did some research so this is what I'm planning, please correct me if I'm wrong:

I read that conventional motor oil is suggested for break in, so I thought I would use 2qts of Quaker State Advanced Durability 10w30. Planning to do 4 changes every 5hrs for the first 20hrs of use (0.5qtx4).

Then I thought I would switch to Royal Purple (either high performance or high mileage), suggestions on which? I'd like the engine to last as long as possible. I'm planning to use it ~15hrs a week indefinitely. Manual says to change the oil every 20hrs, would it be ok to bump that to 30hrs? That way I'd only have to do it roughly every 2 weeks?

I plan to use premium gas since it's a small tank/efficient vehicle anyway. Do I need to use a fuel stabilizer?

Do I need to use a break in additive like Lucas ZDDP?

Thanks!

 

[mckutzy]

My opinion.... Stick with cheap as can get Dino oil...for break in and then the same for running...
It's an industrial motor... It'll be fine...
And with that being said... No need for more expensive gas... Unless its ethyl free... But for the duration of it being stored and used... Cheap as affordable gas is good enough...

 

[StabbyJoe89]

My opinion.... Stick with cheap as can get Dino oil...for break in and then the same for running...
It's an industrial motor... It'll be fine...
And with that being said... No need for more expensive gas... Unless its ethyl free... But for the duration of it being stored and used... Cheap as affordable gas is good enough...

Haha sounds like I've been overthinking it. Thanks! How about additives? Any to fuel or to oil? Stickers all over the engine said to use fuel additives? But I almost feel like that's for storage? I plan to use it daily, do I need any break in or fuel additives?

 

[chancer]

Please post pics and stuff as you go. This is a cool idea.

 

[mckutzy]

Ya I've only hear during storage...
I've only just used regular oil, and then an oil change...

 

[StabbyJoe89]

Some pics of how the engine placement will look. I need some advice about where to mount it to though.

The engine mount/jackshaft body is 1/8", 0.125" (3mm) thick steel, so 11 gauge. The platform of the tricycle is only 0.09" (2.3mm), 13 gauge thick steel. The tricycle is rated to support hundreds of pounds so I'm sure it's a solid platform. But is 0.09" / 13 gauge steel strong enough to secure the engine mount to? I find that almost all engine mounts are 1/8", 0.125" thick so this makes me worried that 0.09" is too thin?

Alternatively, I could cut through half the platform. And attach the engine mount directly to the 2 1" tubes of the trike frame itself underneath using u bolts. (pics attached)

 

[chancer]

I think the surface are will spread out the load and be fine. But just a flat engine plate bolted to the 13g trike plate should suffice.

 

[StabbyJoe89]

I think the surface are will spread out the load and be fine. But just a flat engine plate bolted to the 13g trike plate should suffice.

Nice, and it's definitely the method that requires less work and money. I think I'll build it like that and keep an eye on it at first to see how the platform is holding up. If I see bending/deforming, I'll cut it and mount to the tubing. I doubt it'd just fail without warning. Thanks!

 

[3kakr4]

This is a super neat idea. It combines two of my favorite things: bikes AND karts! Woohoo! Looking forward to the completion video!

 

[bob58o]

I've seen a 212cc kit for the Schwinn Trike. The rear sprocket hub is a "rag joint" so it applies the force to the spokes of one of the wheels. I guess the spokes break all the time, so I was thinking of a different way I could attach the sprocket

Looking forward to seeing this completed and hearing about how well it works.

 

[StabbyJoe89]

Hey guys, I wanted to update you all. The trike is complete, just took it downstairs and locked it up outside. I am facing some issues though and I would love some input. Any help is appreciated!!!

The trike is right wheel drive only, and the right wheel refuses to move unless the engine is running. Also, once I start the engine, the right wheel starts spinning immediately at idle speed (I wanna say like 5mph). I grabbed the wheel with my hand to stop it, but this causes the engine to turn off. I had the trike up on some buckets and the throttle works and responds fine. But same problem, drive wheel matches engine speed, even at idle.

I have a 212cc predator, connected to a generic Comet 30 series torque converter, connected to a jackshaft for sake of ratio, connected to the trike axle itself.

My impression was that the TC should allow the drive wheel to move independently of the engine, until I apply throttle and engage it. Belt that came with the TC is installed the right way (flat to engine, slanted to pulley).

It's possible that the TC is engaging and I could lower my idle speed with the screw and that's the issue? But that still doesn't explain why the drive wheel is locked and won't move if the engine is shut down. Any ideas?

PS: My throttle set up is one of these (pic). It bypasses the governor lever. The governor lever is currently just sitting under the fuel tank unattached, could that be causing what I'm seeing?