Predator 212cc cams..

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MiniMudder12

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I currently have a "stock" predator 212cc, only mods are a header pipe and carb. I want to buy a cam to put in it, not for more Rmps but for torque. Will it give me more torque at my low rpm range? Will it hurt my engine? My engine still has the governor and I don't have plans on removing it any time soon.
A little new to this so any pointers help! Thanks!
 

anickode

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There's no replacement for displacement.

Most performance parts are based off the assumption that governor removal was one of the first things you did. A bigger carb is great, but again, if the engine can't spin faster, it's not going to use that extra air and fuel anyway. Power mods typically provide the biggest gains at speeds higher than the factory governor is set. You might see some gains, or you might actually see some loss, as the end result is usually the power curve moving higher up the rev chart. I doubt many people have done performance builds geared towards a 3600rpm Governed engine.
 

Ebrownie

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No aftermarket cams that I know of are designed to increase power on a 3600 rpm governed engine. The stock cam is about as good as it gets for creating torque at low rpm.
 

MiniMudder12

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Well since I'm 15 and I don't get a lot of money unless I go out to work, what would I need to run it 100% safely with no governor? I know cam, connecting and flywheel, anything else? Its a 212cc hemi. (if you could give omb links or names that would help :thumbsup: )
 

bob58o

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Actually, there are cams designed for high torque. the NR racing 280 cam with the 0211 grind is the one to get. Found here:
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/200cam-280.htm

You will need to put in heavy single rate 26 lb valve springs for this one.

This will give you more torque than stock from 2000 to 5500 rpm.

I was going to recommend the same one.

Stock Cam (as far as I can decipher from internet searching) is basically the Dynocams CL1 grind.

Lift: 0.224" Intake, 0.231" Exhaust
Duration: 219* Intake, 222.5* Exhaust
Intake C/L: 108.5* ATDC
Exhaust C/L: 110* BTDC
LSA: 109

The NR 280-0211
Same Duration as stock.
Earlier Intake Centerline vs stock. 102 vs 108.5(Better for low end power)
Wider LSA vs stock. 111 vs 109 (Better for low end power, less overlap, higher combustion pressure, lower max RPM)
~25% more lift vs stock. 0.280 vs 0.224 (More power everywhere)

You might need to do some clearancing when using this cam.

---------- Post added at 11:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------

- A stock rod with stock cam is probably ok at 5500 RPM.

- A stock rod with performance cam might not do as well at the same RPM.
At least on the big blocks (i.g. 420cc engines), I've read stock rods fail - even with milder, low RPM, aftermarket camshafts

-The stock Flywheel should be ok with this cam, but I feel obligated to tell you that many claim a billet flywheel is required after removing the governor. If it does explode, which nobody here has ever actually witnessed, it can seriously hurt or even kill you.

This is the connecting rod you would want to be safe...
Stock Length. Works with Hemi. Uses stock Piston and Wrist Pin.
http://www.arcracing.com/6254-arc-billet-rod-hf-predator-212cc-3-308-std/

This is the Hemi flywheel to be safe...
http://www.arcracing.com/6626-predator-212-hemi-kohler-ch270-billet-flywheel/

These are the valve springs to use (if you went with the 280 cam)...
Need two of them.
http://www.arcracing.com/dj-1056-valve-spring-26lb-hp-white-stripe-sold-individually/

Cam, Valve Springs, Connecting Rod, and Flywheel might run you $300. $200, without the flywheel. There is no such thing as 100% safe. If the flywheel buys you peace of mind, then it is definitely worth it. Also a dremel, or other rotary tool, might be needed to clearance the block or crankshaft.
 

Randy H

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Another way to increase torque is by increasing the compression. Thinner head gasket. Flat top piston in a non- hemi.

Timing advance, by way of offset key may help.

Rocker arms, with a higher ratio than stock may help.

You could also tweak the governor to allow a bit higher RPM.
 

Ebrownie

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I don’t know how much money you want to spend, but if you still want a decently strong motor for cheap you can buy a jet, air filter and header kit for somewhere in the range of 50-100 bucks. Then, you can safely remove the governor without adding a billet con rod or flywheel. Valve float will limit your rpm to around 5k with stock springs. That really wakes a predator up quite a bit from stock, just not as much as a cam or high compression will.
 

Angelk

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I haven't personally removed a governor from a 212, but I have done a lot of reading and research on it. From what I have seen it doesn't really effect engine wear a whole lot, as long as you aren't sitting there "red lining" it and letting the valves float. It can be done with out the valve springs and flywheel as previously mentioned, however it does put your engine at a very, very slight risk of failure. Probably not much more than using it with the governor. Those are the recommended mods because they increase the engine life, and they give a base to continue to increase power.
 
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