Actually, there are cams designed for high torque. the NR racing 280 cam with the 0211 grind is the one to get. Found here:
http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/200cam-280.htm
You will need to put in heavy single rate 26 lb valve springs for this one.
This will give you more torque than stock from 2000 to 5500 rpm.
I was going to recommend the same one.
Stock Cam (as far as I can decipher from internet searching) is basically the Dynocams CL1 grind.
Lift: 0.224" Intake, 0.231" Exhaust
Duration: 219* Intake, 222.5* Exhaust
Intake C/L: 108.5* ATDC
Exhaust C/L: 110* BTDC
LSA: 109
The NR 280-0211
Same Duration as stock.
Earlier Intake Centerline vs stock. 102 vs 108.5(Better for low end power)
Wider LSA vs stock. 111 vs 109 (Better for low end power, less overlap, higher combustion pressure, lower max RPM)
~25% more lift vs stock. 0.280 vs 0.224 (More power everywhere)
You might need to do some clearancing when using this cam.
---------- Post added at 11:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 AM ----------
- A stock rod with stock cam is probably ok at 5500 RPM.
- A stock rod with performance cam might not do as well at the same RPM.
At least on the big blocks (i.g. 420cc engines), I've read stock rods fail - even with milder, low RPM, aftermarket camshafts
-The stock Flywheel should be ok with this cam, but I feel obligated to tell you that many claim a billet flywheel is required after removing the governor. If it does explode, which nobody here has ever actually witnessed, it can seriously hurt or even kill you.
This is the connecting rod you would want to be safe...
Stock Length. Works with Hemi. Uses stock Piston and Wrist Pin.
http://www.arcracing.com/6254-arc-billet-rod-hf-predator-212cc-3-308-std/
This is the Hemi flywheel to be safe...
http://www.arcracing.com/6626-predator-212-hemi-kohler-ch270-billet-flywheel/
These are the valve springs to use (if you went with the 280 cam)...
Need two of them.
http://www.arcracing.com/dj-1056-valve-spring-26lb-hp-white-stripe-sold-individually/
Cam, Valve Springs, Connecting Rod, and Flywheel might run you $300. $200, without the flywheel. There is no such thing as 100% safe. If the flywheel buys you peace of mind, then it is definitely worth it. Also a dremel, or other rotary tool, might be needed to clearance the block or crankshaft.