Predator 212 mod question

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gx390

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Hey guys. I have been running this new predator 212 on my cart for about 2 weeks now with great results. The only thing I have done is unhook the low oil sensor so I can take sharp turns and keep the engine running. It still has the governor. I really love how reliable this engine is, so I want to mod it without sacrificing that. My list of mods that I want to get is an exaust header and an Air filter, e tube and bigger jets for stock carb, or I can put on the carb from my gx390. I will also get a fuel pump so I can relocate the gas can. Can I have all these mods while still having the governor? I have no problem with removing it, but I just don't have the money and time for buying and installing a billet rod and flywheel.
 

mckutzy

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Fuel pump, air filter, header dont need the gov in or out to mod.
Jets and E tube you will see what the motor needs when the airfilter/header are installed after a plug check.
 

gx390

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Fuel pump, air filter, header dont need the gov in or out to mod.
Jets and E tube you will see what the motor needs when the airfilter/header are installed after a plug check.


So i can just bolt them right up...thanks for clearing up my confusion


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gx390

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Depending on the fuel pump, if a pulse version, it may need a mod to the valve cover or the side cover for a pulse fitting.
Good example here.

http://www.affordablegokarts.com/fuel-pump-setup.php

Also, the air filter may need an adapter to fit it to the carb.


Ok thanks. Would you recommend me getting jets and an e tube for the stock carb or buying an adapter and using the gx390 carb. Which would provide better results?


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mckutzy

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I guess I forgot to say on the carb, I havent much of a clue on that one. There is a few others here that will confirm.
I would say just see what the mods do first before the carb modificatrion/change, maybe you would like them as is(the stock carb that is).
 

buckwheat

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I installed a header on our Predator after about 6 hours of running time on it. Everything else is as it came out of the box. We took it out & ran it for 40 minutes in 60 degree weather (Thanksgiving-Atlanta, GA). I checked the spark plug & it does not appear to be running lean. Perhaps when warmer air temperature arrives I will have to rejet the carburetor.
With the header we can now tell/feel the governor come into play.
 

OzFab

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Perhaps when warmer air temperature arrives I will have to rejet the carburetor.

...Or perhaps when you put a hi flow air filter on it. Replacing the stock muffler makes a slight difference, enough to notice something is different but, it won't have any effect on how much fuel it uses; it can now breathe out but it still can't breathe IN

I have no problem with removing it, but I just don't have the money and time for buying and installing a billet rod and flywheel.

Well, you're gonna love this little tidbit: You don't need to replace the conrod or flywheel IF you leave the stock valve springs in. Once the governor is removed, the next thing to "govern" the engine is the valves, which start to bounce at around 5000rpm, preventing the engine from revving any higher, well inside the safety limits of the rod & flywheel...
 

gx390

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...Or perhaps when you put a hi flow air filter on it. Replacing the stock muffler makes a slight difference, enough to notice something is different but, it won't have any effect on how much fuel it uses; it can now breathe out but it still can't breathe IN







Well, you're gonna love this little tidbit: You don't need to replace the conrod or flywheel IF you leave the stock valve springs in. Once the governor is removed, the next thing to "govern" the engine is the valves, which start to bounce at around 5000rpm, preventing the engine from revving any higher, well inside the safety limits of the rod & flywheel...


Well thankfully, I do have the stock valve springs in...so I will soon be removing the governor...hallelujah


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gx390

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Does anyone know a good place to find the parts that I have mentioned above? I have already looked at AGK and a few other sites, but which products and sites have you guys had the best experiences with?


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mckutzy

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As for a header, Id say build it. With that being said, do you have tools to do so(welder grinder ect) and know how to?

As for a filter adapter, get a filter you need and build one like firemanjim did in his thread(the tools thing again)(or even talk him into making you one???), or like I did on my bike in my thread. One interesting Idea I heard was to use a pvc pipe end cap that fit the filter, and bolt it up to the carb with an air hole in the middle about the size of the intake.

So there is a few ideas for you...
My thread is on my sig..

Jim's thread
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24281
 

gx390

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As for a header, Id say build it. With that being said, do you have tools to do so(welder grinder ect) and know how to?

As for a filter adapter, get a filter you need and build one like firemanjim did in his thread(the tools thing again)(or even talk him into making you one???), or like I did on my bike in my thread. One interesting Idea I heard was to use a pvc pipe end cap that fit the filter, and bolt it up to the carb with an air hole in the middle about the size of the intake.

So there is a few ideas for you...
My thread is on my sig..

Jim's thread
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=24281


Thanks, I do have the tools to make my own header, so I may try that out and see how that works


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firemanjim

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You mean like this? :lolgoku: I will be making a few of these for sale. This fits the GX160-200 and HF 212 predators. The GX390 will have a larger filter and adaptor because the carb studs are larger in diameter and farther apart. Those will be a couple bucks more.... Not doing this to "get rich",just offering help......

I recently pulled the gov from my gx160, added a 3 stage candy cane header, my filter adaptor, and opened (only) main jet by .005"....... I swapped engines with my daughters 1 wheel peel kart to "test" it..... CAN NOT keep tire from spinning...... HAS to go on a LIVE axle kart..... lol :lolgoku: Although my mods are little, its enough to see a HUGE difference in power...... me likey me likey...... :wai:
 

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mckutzy

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Its very simple to build a header(in my eyes that is),When I tacked the pipe to the flange, just have to protect the bore of the exhaust port, the rest of the motor( I used a bunch of old gloves covering the engine/gastank/ect), and ground to the pipe that is being welded. (if you look on my build, you'll see)

If is a simple bend and not at an angle directly from the port, jig up on a bench and weld there(tack first then fit, then weld when happy of the fit)
 

firemanjim

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:iagree: When I make them, I put the flange on the engine, then hold the tube where I like it, and mark 3 spots with a paint pen. Then I clamp the flange down on my table and hold tube ,matching the marks, then tac it. I check it on the engine for fit and appearance, then remove and weld it all up. Hardest part is cutting out a new flange from 1/8" plate, with an air grinder......
 

zbuck

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:wai: We buy header flanges with the d port allready there. these flanges have enough meat that on the tube side we mill it out to fit are header size. Leave the header longer than the lenght you think you will need, paint the entire header pipe and start engine let it get good and hot, to the point that the paint burns off. Where the paint stops burning is where we cut it. This is where you get the best dynamics of exhaust flow.This is an old trick taught to me years ago.
 

zbuck

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:iagree: When I make them, I put the flange on the engine, then hold the tube where I like it, and mark 3 spots with a paint pen. Then I clamp the flange down on my table and hold tube ,matching the marks, then tac it. I check it on the engine for fit and appearance, then remove and weld it all up. Hardest part is cutting out a new flange from 1/8" plate, with an air grinder......

:wai: Very good idea. I have found that a Dremel with a 420 disc work well on that kind of work.
 

firemanjim

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:wai: We buy header flanges with the d port allready there. these flanges have enough meat that on the tube side we mill it out to fit are header size. Leave the header longer than the lenght you think you will need, paint the entire header pipe and start engine let it get good and hot, to the point that the paint burns off. Where the paint stops burning is where we cut it. This is where you get the best dynamics of exhaust flow.This is an old trick taught to me years ago.

Forgot all about that trick! Read that in an old Hot Rods mag . The guy was talking about how they made their headers for drag cars and salt flats racers.....
Uhh, where do you get the D port flanges? I have only found B n S flanges like that.
 

54inches

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Check my build thread for pictures of my built header and intake with new filter for my new predator. I did not wait to run it to start modifying mine.

Any need to break the engine in?
 
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