Predator 212 hemi and valve question

[WillMatrix]

Hey what's up predator folks

I'm prepared to install a barb fitting into my hemi 212 valve cover but I have a question. When I run my pulse fitting to the pump what do I do with the breather hole that's on the side of the cover?

Also, what side of the cover do I install the pulse fitting (intake or exhaust)?

 

[Denny]

What is the barb for?

 

[WillMatrix]

What is the barb for?

To add a line to go to the pulse pump

 

[Denny]

You could just put it in the intake. The pump will last longer. But most of all you won’t screw up your crankcase ventilation.

 

[WillMatrix]

You could just put it in the intake. The pump will last longer. But most of all you won’t screw up your crankcase ventilation.

I'm using the stock style carb

 

[Denny]

You could add a spacer or drill the carb.

 

[WillMatrix]

You could add a spacer or drill the carb.

Any instructions? I'm interested

 

[madprofessor]

The best info for installing a pulse fitting in a Predator valve cover to run a pulse pump is on YouTube, done by the ARC instructor, see it in the link below. He explains both the hemi rectangular cast aluminum and the non-hemi octagonal steel valve covers. The placement of the fitting is extremely important, as there is a "flapper" valve built into the covers, and you must be on the correct side of it. (You can not use the breather tube for a pulse signal to the pump.) Jump to the 34-minute mark on the video, watch and learn for about 5 minutes.
Top Plate, Fuel Pump and Pulse Fitting installation(Predator 212, Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube
As to the breather tube that goes from the valve cover to the carb intake on a stock engine, if you're running an aftermarket high volume air filter that replaces your stock airbox, you do need somewhere to go with the breather tube so that oil doesn't slather all over stuff. Gregg at Red Beard's Garage has a good video on how to install an oil catch can (GoPowerSports supplier) on the Predator if you want to spend that money, or you can make your own very cheaply, see link below.
How To Install a Oil Catch Can on a Go Kart - Predator / Honda - YouTube

 

[WillMatrix]

The best info for installing a pulse fitting in a Predator valve cover to run a pulse pump is on YouTube, done by the ARC instructor, see it in the link below. He explains both the hemi rectangular cast aluminum and the non-hemi octagonal steel valve covers. The placement of the fitting is extremely important, as there is a "flapper" valve built into the covers, and you must be on the correct side of it. (You can not use the breather tube for a pulse signal to the pump.) Jump to the 34-minute mark on the video, watch and learn for about 5 minutes.
Top Plate, Fuel Pump and Pulse Fitting installation(Predator 212, Go kart racing, Mini bike racing) - YouTube
As to the breather tube that goes from the valve cover to the carb intake on a stock engine, if you're running an aftermarket high volume air filter that replaces your stock airbox, you do need somewhere to go with the breather tube so that oil doesn't slather all over stuff. Gregg at Red Beard's Garage has a good video on how to install an oil catch can (GoPowerSports supplier) on the Predator if you want to spend that money, or you can make your own very cheaply, see link below.
How To Install a Oil Catch Can on a Go Kart - Predator / Honda - YouTube

I will look at that tutorial.

I'm having another problem. I installed everything correctly (billet rod billet flywheel 256CAM, and stock timing key for the flywheel) but nothing fires up and the pull rope snatches out of my hand real hard.

Could it be the valve lashes? Could the cam timing be off?

 

[panchothedog]

If the lash on the exhaust is not tight enough (.003" ) then the compression release will not catch and it can kick back pretty hard. I wouldn't think that would keep it from starting, just make it hard and uncomfortable for your arm.
I suppose improper cam timing could do the same thing, but really that's pretty hard to screw unless you did it with your eyes closed. If you lined up the dots on the cam and the crank then it's right, and if you're not sure then pull off the side cover and check it.

 

[panchothedog]

Something else that should be a no brainer but could cause kickback is the ignition timing. Take off the cooling shroud and make sure the flywheel didn't slip. That the key and the slot in the flywheel are lined up perfectly.

 

[WillMatrix]

If the lash on the exhaust is not tight enough (.003" ) then the compression release will not catch and it can kick back pretty hard. I wouldn't think that would keep it from starting, just make it hard and uncomfortable for your arm.
I suppose improper cam timing could do the same thing, but really that's pretty hard to screw unless you did it with your eyes closed. If you lined up the dots on the cam and the crank then it's right, and if you're not sure then pull off the side cover and check it.

I'm going to check over everything and let you guys know how it going. All of this extra mess stemming from a valve cover vent smh. Also the hole I tapped for the barb is in the way of the spark plug smh

 

[WillMatrix]

Ok I don't know what the hell was wrong with me but the valve lashes was so loose. I adjusted them to 0.014 and I might go a little tighter because there is still a pull back on the rope that I'm not use to. And I fudged the valve cover up trying to drill it for my pulse pump. I ordered a clear valve cover with a barb already in it and I'll just pulse off of it to the pump

 

[madprofessor]

After making sure your flywheel is still in place with the stock timing key and all, go to the link below where I wrote a story about pullropes snatching back on folks, and how I cured it without turning a single wrench....................
(16) How much pullrope are you using????? | DIY Go Karts

 

[panchothedog]

For your valve lash .014" is still way too loose . Set them both at .003" .
It sounds tight, but that is factory spec and the engine will run fine.
I have 4 engines on karts, from stage 1 all the way up to fully modified, stage 4
and then some. Every one of them has the valves set at .003" on intake and exhaust wether stock rockers, champion shaft mounted, or Gage aluminum roller rockers 1.2 to 1. And they all run strong and start as they should with no kickback. I'm telling you this to let you know I didn't just make that number up
and it works in all situations from stock to full race.

 

[WillMatrix]

For your valve lash .014" is still way too loose . Set them both at .003" .
It sounds tight, but that is factory spec and the engine will run fine.
I have 4 engines on karts, from stage 1 all the way up to fully modified, stage 4
and then some. Every one of them has the valves set at .003" on intake and exhaust wether stock rockers, champion shaft mounted, or Gage aluminum roller rockers 1.2 to 1. And they all run strong and start as they should with no kickback. I'm telling you this to let you know I didn't just make that number up
and it works in all situations from stock to full race.

I'm going to set them at that lash tomorrow. Thank you a lot.

After making sure your flywheel is still in place with the stock timing key and all, go to the link below where I wrote a story about pullropes snatching back on folks, and how I cured it without turning a single wrench....................
(16) How much pullrope are you using????? | DIY Go Karts

How about this extra hole I put in the valve cover? Can I run it till my new one arrives?

 

[panchothedog]

other than some oil spraying out it shouldn't hurt anything.

 

[WillMatrix]

other than some oil spraying out it shouldn't hurt anything.

One more question. When installing my TC Is it normal for the back wheel to spin less freely?

the wheel spins freely until I put the belt on the driver pully . Once the belt is on the driver pully the wheel starts to tough spin by hand but if I turn the driver pully the wheel turns.

basically I just need to know is it normal for the wheel to be tougher to spin by hand once the belt is on the TC?

 

[Denny]

Totally normal! Nothing wrong. The driven is trying with the belt to turn the stationary stopped engine. Therefore acting like a brake. That’s all. As the belt wears in it may get easier to move but don’t count on it.

 

[WillMatrix]

Totally normal! Nothing wrong. The driven is trying with the belt to turn the stationary stopped engine. Therefore acting like a brake. That’s all. As the belt wears in it may get easier to move but don’t count on it.

Bro thank you sooooo much. I have screwed and unscrewed this thing the whole night. I’m happy that is over lol