predator 212 build advice

[fastsr20det]

hey guys so I'm kind of new to the go karting world but I used to have one when I was a kid and decided to get another for me and my little ones to ride on so I ended up picking up this frame idk what frame it is maybe one of you guys can help me identify it I think it might be a top kart frame not sure thought. I got it cause the dude just did a powder coat on it and everything was pretty much there besides the brake line that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder. and i also have the some plastics and another set of slicks and rims for it.I paid 200 for it so I think I got an awesome deal with it. then I just sat in the garage for about 2 years since I didn't have time to build due to me being in the military and never home but now I have the time to do it cause I wont be going away for a bit. so now I started me little project back up so I decided to go with the predator 212 (hemi) I herd nothing but pretty good things about these clones and they where like 200 bucks cheaper than the Honda so I looked at it like that's another 200 bucks I can put into this motor to get it going. so the motor right now has this a mini RLV exhaust, intake, .037 jets, 8 degree advanced timing, governor removed, oil sensor removed and a walbro pulse pump. so this was all I was going to do with it. so knowing me lol I'm a huge adrenaline junkie and like to go fast I have a 2011 R1 and a 550hp 240sx so I get my thrills from those toys. but I want this little kart to go a bit fast so I decided to start tearing up internals and replace them with some performance ones so this is where yalls advice who's build these little engines.

ok so remember I already have the motor and mini RLV exhaust, intake, .037 jets, 8 degree advanced timing, governor removed, oil sensor removed and a walbro pulse pump already on it everything is brand new never used and I haven't even started the motor. so below are the parts Im going to get in the next day or so to add to the motor. hopefully you guys can help me out and seeing if I'm going in the right direction and tell me if I need anything else now I don't want to do and milling or boring the engine out nothing like that just take out and put new stuff in I pretty much want to get the most power I can without boring out the cylinders or anything

Flywheel:
http://www.arcracing.com/6626-predator-212-hemi-kohler-ch270-billet-flywheel/

Camshaft:
https://www.ombwarehouse.com/MOD1-Grind-Welded-Lobe-Clone-Core-Cam.html?category_id=1641

Head parts:
Springs: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/36-Valve-Spring-for-BSP-Clone-GX200-Predator-212.html?category_id=1634

retainers: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/valve-retainer-kit-w-keeper-for-36lb-spring.html?category_id=1634

push rods: https://www.ombwarehouse.com/predator-hemi-5-540-cm-push-rod.html/

head studs: http://www.arcracing.com/gxc-305-k-stud-kit-for-gx200-clone-cyl-heads/

exhaust valve: http://www.arcracing.com/dj-1126-stainless-steel-exhaust-valve-24mm/

intake valve: http://www.arcracing.com/dj-1121-stainless-steel-intake-valve-25mm/

Rod:
http://www.arcracing.com/6254-arc-billet-rod-hf-predator-212cc-3-308-std/

Piston: (this is if my predator does not have a flat piston cause I was told some have it some don't I'm going to open it up today to check)
http://www.arcracing.com/11132p94-wiseco-piston-unchromed-2-756-x-640-x-490/

wrist pin:
http://www.arcracing.com/6521-arc-new-short-heavy-duty-wrist-pin/


or should I go with this one that is cheaper cause I could save like 100 bucks
https://www.ombwarehouse.com/Std-Bore-Hemi-Predator-Flat-Top-Piston-Kit.html

Carb:
http://www.arcracing.com/hl-334wx-carburetor-tillotson/

so let me know guys what u think or if I should get something different than what I have here I will keep posting pics up as the build goes on. also what would you guys recommend centrifugal clutch or a torque convertor. I know the advantages with both its just when I look at both it says that they are good for about 8hp or so I know im going to be making well over that and the 40 series for the torque converter is nice but its for a 1 in drive I have 3/4.

 

[tinamcjittles]

When I was young(er) me and my dad were building a kart just like that one, same color and style! Wow you're going all out on the engine, I wouldn't bother with a torque converter unless you'll be tackling hills or ditches lol.. That 240 must be an awesome drifter! 0_o

 

[Redlig]

Just get the arc builders prepared kit and your good to go

 

[fastsr20det]

When I was young(er) me and my dad were building a kart just like that one, same color and style! Wow you're going all out on the engine, I wouldn't bother with a torque converter unless you'll be tackling hills or ditches lol.. That 240 must be an awesome drifter! 0_o

Ok yea i could see where your coming from with the clutch yea im trying to have fun put some power in this little thing and do it right the first time...o yea its fun the 240 gets up and goes

---------- Post added at 07:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:54 PM ----------

Just get the arc builders prepared kit and your good to go

That kit would be nice its just i want a little more than what it offers and some of that stuff i already have.

 

[Redlig]

How much more could you want I did mine in my build and it's a monster

https://youtu.be/Ctgyacu79yk

 

[FreeRunner15]

The specs on the cam you chose are very nice.
Me personally would find one with a lower centerline for more torque, but to each his own powerband/rev range/ gear ratio etc.

Those SS valves you have listed are the stock size. I think a couple mm's more is same price but are you interested in paying, or doing it yourself, to have the bigger ones fitted for a good horsepower increase.

The chromoly pushrods should come before stock valve replacements anyway. This isn't a car engine we're dealing with which involves a ton more valvespring pressure against the valve stem AND IN MY VALVETRAIN EXPERIENCE the stock pushrods were first to go with zero valve problems and that is with a .380 cam. Your listed choice is a .310.

 

[fastsr20det]

The specs on the cam you chose are very nice.
Me personally would find one with a lower centerline for more torque, but to each his own powerband/rev range/ gear ratio etc.

Those SS valves you have listed are the stock size. I think a couple mm's more is same price but are you interested in paying, or doing it yourself, to have the bigger ones fitted for a good horsepower increase.

The chromoly pushrods should come before stock valve replacements anyway. This isn't a car engine we're dealing with which involves a ton more valvespring pressure against the valve stem AND IN MY VALVETRAIN EXPERIENCE the stock pushrods were first to go with zero valve problems and that is with a .380 cam. Your listed choice is a .310.

Im trying to do it my self thats why i just went with just better parts so it can hold better at hight RPMs so your saying dont worry about valves then? What about some billet lifters? Whitch cam would you recommend send me a link to one theres a few on OMB and do you think paying the extra 35 bucks for a billet one is worth it or is it just for the looks

---------- Post added at 08:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

How much more could you want I did mine in my build and it's a monster

https://youtu.be/Ctgyacu79yk

Wow bro that thing does sound mean as **** i cant wait untill i finnish mine

 

[fastsr20det]

Heck yea has a flat piston... so would you guys recommend going with a smaller head gasket to boost up the compression a bit? Cause if i go with a .010 head gasket that would put me at about a 0.10 clearance....or i could go with a .040 head gasket and get a .040 rod which would give me a longer stroke and put me back up to a .020 clearance. What do yall think

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

I wouldn't go any tighter than .020. I went to .017 once and wore the casting pattern off of the piston.

 

[fastsr20det]

I wouldn't go any tighter than .020. I went to .017 once and wore the casting pattern off of the piston.

What about going with a .040 head gasket and get a .040 rod which would give me a longer stroke and put me back up to a .020 clearance.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

I don't think you describe how low in the hole your piston sits at TDC. You may find you have more clearance to work with than you thought. I just replaced my stock head gasket with the 0.010 gasket. It made a pleasant difference. Carefully measure your valve clearance before you choose your rod and gasket.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

^^^this^^^

 

[fastsr20det]

I don't think you describe how low in the hole your piston sits at TDC. You may find you have more clearance to work with than you thought. I just replaced my stock head gasket with the 0.010 gasket. It made a pleasant difference. Carefully measure your valve clearance before you choose your rod and gasket.

well its a flat top piston and they say flat tops have .020 clearance with stock rod measurements. but I could be wrong

 

[outcrydrummer]

That .020 in the hole isnt true for all hemi engines. Generally yes but some have less and some more.
Point is is you nees to pull the head and see what you have to work with.
Remove your head gasket and use clay on the piston to determine your clearance and exactly how much you have to work with.

 

[fastsr20det]

nvm then I will keep the stock rod size with with the ARC rod seems like to much lol.

 

[outcrydrummer]

No I would definitely go with the longer rod.
Take your head off and measure the in hole measurement of your current setup. Chances are it's close to .020 in the hole.
Most predators can benefit from the longer rod its just a matter of checking first.
In my case I went ahead and ordered the longer rod without even checking but I ordered several head gaskets in order to maker sure I have the clearance I need after the fact.

 

[fastsr20det]

or I could go with the .020 just to be safe and get this in .032 thick what do you think

http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/cop200hg.htm

 

[outcrydrummer]

Head gaskets are so cheap i would just get that, a thin .010 and the stock .045 just in case.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

nvm then I will keep the stock rod size with with the ARC rod seems like to much lol.

It's some work but not hard to do and it's definately a worthwhile set of mods... If you already have the tools needed to do it. Torque wrench and micrometer.

 

[fastsr20det]

It's some work but not hard to do and it's definately a worthwhile set of mods... If you already have the tools needed to do it. Torque wrench and micrometer.

Yea im picking up the micrometer this weekend, flywheel, billet lifters, rod and cam so i can have the block closed up