Predator 212 and TC fitment issues

Jamie P

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I'm working on a Manco Dingo 285.

My box of brand new goodies arrived today, and I was excited to start assembling stuff. My projects rarely involve new, clean parts, so I really treated myself this time...However, the engine swap and torque converter installation were not as simple as I hoped.

First issue: The 212 is apparently longer than the B&S that came on the Dingo, so the gas tank bumps into the back of the seat. I can get the mounting bolts through the slotted holes, but I have about 1/2" of sliding adjustment on them. Also, the driven pulley and the sprocket seem very snuggly to me in their vertical spacing. I'm thinking that spacing the engine up and back might be beneficial.

Second issue: The TC strikes on the oil fill plug. Nobody talked about this on the installation videos I watched.

So I have a few questions for you guys:

1. Have you found an oil fill plug that doesn't stick out so far?
2. Does my sketch make sense as a way of spacing the engine up and back from the seat? What I'm trying to show there is a section view of a 2"x2" square tube with offset bolts through it. If anyone has a simpler method I'm all ears

Thanks
 

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Karttekk

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Some of those engines have opposing oil fill ports. If yours is equipped like that, plug the side that's hitting the TC and move the oil fill plug to the other side of the engine if you can.
 

mckutzy

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I think a few people here used the dip on the front of the motor; the rear fill plug, they tighten it properly, then cut off the top to clear the bearing boss buttresses....

As for the bracketry.. that'll work....whatever gets the job done.. just have to keep it mounted solidly.
 

jmaack

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there's a ton of people online and youtube who say to trim the oil fill plug.
 

Smerft85

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Ues, the 212 and honda clones in general are larger than a 5hp briggs or equivalent, at least in length. To keep the tank off the seat on both my dingo's I hooked a come along to the top of the seat, and the other end centered on the front axle tube, then started pulling the top of the seat forward, it only takes around a half inch, maybe 3/4" and the tank will sit just below the bottom of the seat bar. Worked out well on both of mine, and at 6' I can still fit in both, other than my head sticking out of the one with a full cage. Up to you if you want to try it, I may have gotten lucky to only bend the seat forward.
 

Jamie P

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I tried an old B&S oil plug. It looked like the same size and threads but didn't want to go in. So I trimmed the Predator plug.

Smerft85's idea is interesting, but I found out today that there is a "lump" (for lack of a better word) on the back of the TC that strikes the frame, so I'll be forced to lift the engine up and back to clear that. I'll share what I come up with.

Thanks for the help so far.
 

Jamie P

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To close the loop on this one...

Lifting the engine up and back was easy. I used 2"x2" steel tube as you can see in the photo. That gave the clearance from the seat that I needed and gave decent spacing between the TC and the sprocket.

I gave the kart its first test run last night, and it seems to be working great so far.
 

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