Pred vs Tec vs Subaru

[Jakhammer]

I have been working on my Manco with the 6.5 Subaru and that engine has been a wonderful experience. I just started working on my Yerf with a 6.5 Tec and good lord. I knew it had issues when I bought it, but wtf. The carb was screwed. I cleaned it up and got it running... for a minute. cant get it to fire since the first attempt. recleaned and made sure fuel was flowing thru all the ports. I will be honest, I am sure I can get it running again, this isnt rocket science. HOWEVER, then the recoil decided to quit grabbing and rolling it over. I pulled that apart and found one of the dogs is broken our of the hub and the other isnt far behind. I cant even roll it over with a pull start to see if I can get the carb right. So I run and check on a recoil... $52 plus tax. At this point Im thinking a new predator would be a better deal. I have no idea how well this tec will work, how much life is left, how it was maintained, etc. its used.

But here is the deal, I am selling one of these karts, that was the plan from the beginning when I bought them both. So do I buy a Pred and put it in place of the Tec? Is the Pred better than the Subaru? If I keep the Manco (which has been the way I have been leaning since the start) Should I drop the pred on it and move the subaru to the yerf?

So the basics here are should I buy the pred or fix the tec and if I buy the pred should I keep that or the subaru?

Chris

 

[cumminsbayou4x4]

id say deffentily buy a predator because a tecumsa is junk i would keep the subaru because they live for ever

 

[tundrabeagle3]

how much hp is the Subaru? the predator 212 is 7 hp , its very reliable and pretty torquey. the subaru is better quality than the predator but if its less hp than 6 or 7 then i would go with the predator 212. im not a fan of tecumseh either.

 

[cumminsbayou4x4]

harbor fright claims the predator is 7hp but the 206cc greyhounds were 6.5 6 more ccs woudn't really give you a .5 a hp

 

[Russ2251]

id say deffentily buy a predator because a tecumsa is junk

You're opinion and not the general consensus.

 

[tundrabeagle3]

it says 7 hp predator 212 at harbor freight. the new ones do feel like at least 7 hp they come with a 95 jet and a new all metal cam

 

[cumminsbayou4x4]

yeah they claim that but i wouldn't say it till i got one on a dyno

 

[Jakhammer]

The Subaru is 6.5hp. I'm only keeping one so its the predator or the Subaru. I will give up some longevity for power. But its a cost thing with the tec. Just the recoil is half the cost of a pred. IF the Carb needs more parts or replaced its more money and its still unknown how much life is in it.

Add the fact I can get go fast parts for a pred and its fairly attractive.

Chris

 

[jamyers]

Assuming the hp ratings are relatively equal, here's how I rank small engines:

#1 Subaru - Iron bores and double crank bearings. Extremely well-designed and made very rugged/durable, typically under-rated hp from the factory, but performance parts are non-existent. Pricey.

#2 Kawasaki - Iron bores and double crank bearings. very well designed and made, rugged/durable, but no perf parts. Pricey.

#2 Kohler - same as Kawasaki.

#3 Briggs I/C series - Iron bores and most-often single crank bearings. Well designed and made, rugged/durable. Can be picked up at a bargain. Some performance parts available.

#4 Tecumseh - Alum or Iron bores, Mostly single-bearing cranks, can be hard to tell which you've got. Decently-designed, typically well-made, older Tec's had GREAT carburetors. QC was hit-n-miss towards their end. Can be had at a bargain, lots of perf parts out there.

#5 Predator - Iron bore, at least one crank bearing (I'm not sure that it's not double-bearings). Decently designed and generally decently made (It'd pay to make sure there's no trash in the carb bowl and do an oil change as soon as it gets up to temp in order to flush out any bits of debris). Quoted from somebody over at oldminkbikes: "The Predator is the king of cheap, affordable, easily modifiable HP."

#6. Briggs Aluminum "Coolbore". Aluminum bore, crank bushings. Same design and build quality as the iron bore Briggs's. Not known for being particularly rugged or durable, although lots of them out there just. won't. die. Can be had at a bargain, lots of perf parts.

All that said, I'd keep the Predator and hotrod it until it blows, keep the Subaru as either a backup or on a second kart, and sell the Tec.

 

[machinist@large]

Assuming the hp ratings are relatively equal, here's how I rank small engines:

#1 Subaru - Iron bores and double crank bearings. Extremely well-designed and made very rugged/durable, typically under-rated hp from the factory, but performance parts are non-existent. Pricey.

#2 Kawasaki - Iron bores and double crank bearings. very well designed and made, rugged/durable, but no perf parts. Pricey.

#2 Kohler - same as Kawasaki.

#3 Briggs I/C series - Iron bores and most-often single crank bearings. Well designed and made, rugged/durable. Can be picked up at a bargain. Some performance parts available.

#4 Tecumseh - Alum or Iron bores, Mostly single-bearing cranks, can be hard to tell which you've got. Decently-designed, typically well-made, older Tec's had GREAT carburetors. QC was hit-n-miss towards their end. Can be had at a bargain, lots of perf parts out there.

#5 Predator - Iron bore, at least one crank bearing (I'm not sure that it's not double-bearings). Decently designed and generally decently made (It'd pay to make sure there's no trash in the carb bowl and do an oil change as soon as it gets up to temp in order to flush out any bits of debris). Quoted from somebody over at oldminkbikes: "The Predator is the king of cheap, affordable, easily modifiable HP."

#6. Briggs Aluminum "Coolbore". Aluminum bore, crank bushings. Same design and build quality as the iron bore Briggs's. Not known for being particularly rugged or durable, although lots of them out there just. won't. die. Can be had at a bargain, lots of perf parts.

All that said, I'd keep the Predator and hotrod it until it blows, keep the Subaru as either a backup or on a second kart, and sell the Tec.

This is the first time I've seen a break down style list like this; it gives me good food for thought. The fact that you openly state that it's your personal list (hence, your opinion) rather than claim it's "Irrefutable Fact" is the type of honesty that I really appreciate. Thanks!!!

 

[OzFab]

My 2 cents: Throw a predator on the kart you're selling, Subaru on the one you're keeping & either sell or look for used parts for the Tec

 

[kendelrk]

from what ive heard, Tec's have a different power/weight ratio that briggs or clones, and they are good motors. once cleaned up and tuned properly they're monsters, but the stock carb is something i hate. my first tec was a 3.5hp, not knowing much i bought a brand new carb for around 115.00 plus tax from a local mower shop, what a ripoff. the carb was fouled up within a month of riding. keep the tec, buy an aftermarket carb and thread in a peice of 3/4 pipe to fit your build and clean up the motor and youll have a reliable motor that has amazing power.

 

[r97]

My 2 cents: Throw a predator on the kart you're selling, Subaru on the one you're keeping & either sell or look for used parts for the Tec

 

[Jakhammer]

I have a guy at work that is willing to buy the tec so I can to that route. The Subaru is a great engine. Always starts on the first pull and seems to be ok on power. I think I will buy a pred and out it on the yerf and sell it unless its something amazing after its all done.

Chris

 

[OzFab]

...unless its something amazing after its all done.

Chris

It may well be but, for how long? Even though the Subaru is used, I think it will outlast a new predator

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I LOVE the early (series 1) Tec carbs. Much like all other common pre-EPA carb, the adjustable main is a lovely thing. I have not had bad luck with regards to the carbs fouling, but I do have two weapons against it. 1)Inline fuel filter 2)When I am going to leave the equipment unused for more than A few days, I run the carb dry. Foul-free.

As far as "Tecs are junk" or whatever the comment was- that's your opinion, and that's all it is.

You have the right to remain wrong... LOL

 

[Pocketrocket]

A tec is a good engine if your always going full speed there designed like that, to run full ball longer then a predator, unfortunately i found perf parts hard to come by for the tec. I moved on to the predator 90 bucks well spent, but if i were you i wouldn't get rid of the subaru there an amazing engine. Get the tec running right sell it for 70-80 bucks if you can get that and scap up the rest for a predator, just my opinion though.

 

[jamyers]

This is the first time I've seen a break down style list like this; it gives me good food for thought. The fact that you openly state that it's your personal list (hence, your opinion) rather than claim it's "Irrefutable Fact" is the type of honesty that I really appreciate. Thanks!!!

You're very welcome, glad to be of help!

Something else (more opinion) I'll add is that the level of maintenance / care any engine is given plays a HUGE role, often more than the design, engineering, etc.

For example, two extremes:

Guy #1: Take a new Subaru, use crappy oil that you never change, run it wot in a cloud of dust and then shut it right down without a cool-down, never give it a bath, use crappy fuel, leave said crappy fuel sitting in it for months, and then when it has issues and you DO grudgingly go to work on it, be sure to use the largest hammer and vise-grips as the only tools - and be sure to get your weight-lifting gorilla buddy to overtighten / strip everything possible. Then b!tch to the entire world about how carpy and overpriced Subaru products are.


Guy #2: Take a new Briggs aluminum-bore sleeved-crank engine, keep it clean and well-maintained with decent oil and fuel, run it hard but let it cool down afterwards, and use some proper tools / procedures when you do your regular maintenance. Then proclaim to the world how awesome Briggs engines are so much superior to anything else on the planet. :rolleyes3:

So you can see how/why there are so many opinions - there's a lot more going on than just what the manufacturer is doing.

 

[jamyers]

I LOVE the early (series 1) Tec carbs. Much like all other common pre-EPA carb, the adjustable main is a lovely thing. I have not had bad luck with regards to the carbs fouling, but I do have two weapons against it. 1)Inline fuel filter 2)When I am going to leave the equipment unused for more than A few days, I run the carb dry. Foul-free...

Yup, love the early Tec fully-adjustable carbs!

Good point, I always add both a filter (the biggest clear inline one I can fit) and a fuel cutoff between the tank and carb so I can run the carb dry as well.

And whenever I fill up my gas cans, I add Sta-bil at the station in case I forget to run a carb dry. Today's modern fuel doesn't seem to last more than 30 days before getting funky.

 

[Jakhammer]

I LOVE the early (series 1) Tec carbs. Much like all other common pre-EPA carb, the adjustable main is a lovely thing.

Since I am sure this is pre EPA due to the fact it looks just like every other little Carb I have messed with, can u shed more light in the adjustable main? I feel as though I might be missing part of the puzzle. Small engines have never been my thing. I have always played with cars and trucks and bigger toys. I tend to think of every Carb as a 4 barrel. Lol. Do we have a link to proper set up of a tec Carb? It know its not rocket science but I have never found any specific info on it and I'm old enough to know guidance would be helpful cuz I really don't know alot about these carbs. I just know enough to muddle my way through it. Now if this were a holly or an edlebrock...

Chris