Your swing arm shock absorber mount would have been better if attached at the back, near the axle, with the hoop leaning forward in line with the shock absorber. Lightweight vertical braces on either side would complete the design. Since you placed it vertically, you may want to add a little bit of a brace back to the axle area, but it may be good enough as it is.
My main concern was the marginal strength found in the designs of these dinky-bikes as they come from the factory. I know this because my Chinese bike project ended up with a lot of gussets and braces welded on to make up for the "just good enough" design in the original bike. I cut a lot of sheet metal triangles from an old mower discharge chute and welded them on to fix failed joints. It worked great.
Make sure you watch out for the thing that was the biggest issue on my bike: joints that are designed so the force pulls the two pipes apart rather than pushing them together. For instance, suppose you attach a shock mount to the bike by welding a tube on top of the main top frame tubes. This will cause the wheel to push up on the shock absorber, lifting the shock mounting tube off the top of the frame tubes. This will cause the tube to rip around the welds. Always make the forces push the tubes together so the welds are squeezed instead of stretched.
Or if you want to sound like an engineer, build your bike so the joints that carry the most force are in compression instead of tension. This is easy to do when you design a frame, but when you start hacking up a Chinese bike and welding a bunch of crap on (like I did, and like you are doing now) you sometimes surprise yourself with a ripped weld after you go over a big bump, and then you smack your forehead and say "wow, I should have made that a compression load."