bajagokart
New member
Anyone wanna take a few very detailed photos of there torque converter set up for me?
Pictures of torque converter
- Thread starter bajagokart
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Doc Sprocket
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I'd love to, But my kart's in storge for the winter, tough to get at. What model TC do you have, and why do you need detailed pics? Are you having set-up trouble?
bajagokart
New member
i just bought newrider3's comet 40 series because everyone is insisting on getting a TC because they are better, im just wondering how other people have theres set up? so i can get an idea on how to set mine up cause i would hate to have blown 200 bucks on a tc when i could have just set up a clutch
Smurph
Code Poet
Well. You could have just set up a clutch. But there's a reason people pay more for the TAVs. You'll be happy with the difference.
Not only do they act as a clutch (essentially breaking the mechanical connection between the power plant[engine] and wheels), but they also act as a transmission. They change gears for you. Automagically. No reverse.
They allow the gear ratio to be set up for a lot of torque when you take off (like a car's 1st gear. Lots of take off power, but you can red line your car and be going less than 50. It would not be a good idea to travel in 1st gear all the time.), and then it allows the gear ratio to dynamically change to give you more top speed when you don't need the torque for taking off any more (like a car's 3rd/5th/overdrive gear. it would take forever to get up to speed if you only had that gear, but you would be able to do 100 or more. It would also not be a good idea to drive a car in only this one gear).
And it does this by continuously changing your gear ratio. That means instead of having 4 defined gear ratios, you actually have access to a theoretically infinite number of ratios within the lower and upper boundaries. This is good because you won't notice any surges from 'changing gears', and you won't have to use a clutch to let you change cogs.
So you won't actually know your current ratio, only your take-off ratio and your top-end ratio.
I'll try to draw up a design for ya as I don't have any lying around.
bajagokart
New member
k thanks that would be so helpful. under my account i have plenty of pictures of my go kart if you want to take a look
r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
here u go, a vid of mine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yl4ohC9pKJ0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yl4ohC9pKJ0
Doc Sprocket
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Hey- Mine's a Comet 40, too. So far I'm pretty pleased with it, too bad the belts are a little pricey. So- Did you get a belt with it? If you did, take the number off the belt and look up the specs. There is a very specific measurement that you must have from the center of the drive clutch to the center of the driven clutch that you must use for it to work. Too tight, you'll have no neutral. Too loose, you'll have no drive.
If you have no belt yet, look up the chart for the available belts, set the clutches apart according to what works for your set up and falls within the range, and order the appropriate belt.
Here's a chart http://www.gokartsupply.com/beltchart.htm
Just wanted to throw you a friendly nugget of advice- TC's ARE better than straight clutches, but did you know why before you bought it? Yes, take tips from folks around here, but do your research, too. Don't just buy stuff for no other reason than you're told to. Weigh out your options, and do what YOU think is best!
Cheers- Chris
If you have no belt yet, look up the chart for the available belts, set the clutches apart according to what works for your set up and falls within the range, and order the appropriate belt.
Here's a chart http://www.gokartsupply.com/beltchart.htm
Just wanted to throw you a friendly nugget of advice- TC's ARE better than straight clutches, but did you know why before you bought it? Yes, take tips from folks around here, but do your research, too. Don't just buy stuff for no other reason than you're told to. Weigh out your options, and do what YOU think is best!
Cheers- Chris
bajagokart
New member
the guy that i bought it from on here gave me 2 belts with it
203791 (12 5/8" c-c)
203783 (7 1/4" c-c)
so do the driver and driven for example on the second belt have to be 7 1/4" apart center to center?
203791 (12 5/8" c-c)
203783 (7 1/4" c-c)
so do the driver and driven for example on the second belt have to be 7 1/4" apart center to center?
Doc Sprocket
*********
Precisely.
bajagokart
New member
does it matter what angle they are at? do they have to be in a straight line (180 degrees)?
bajagokart
New member
could you actually take pictures of this? preferably of your jackshaft and your sprocket on the jackshaft
r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
if i get a chance. there are some in my first kart thread.
i would use the same number of teeth as you had on your clutch. thats wat i did.
i would use the same number of teeth as you had on your clutch. thats wat i did.
bajagokart
New member
thats what im going to do, 10T to a 60T
Doc Sprocket
*********
I don't think I understand your question. Yes the shafts need to be dead parallel. If you mean level, like one pulley higher than the other, no. Put 'em anywhere you need to, one right on top of the other if need be, you could put the driven forward of the driver if need be. That is unimportant as long as the spacing's accurate, the belt is aligned properly, and the clutches are in the correct orientation.
bajagokart
New member
No I meant where the driven goes lol I know they have to be parallel, my other question is, how do you tighten the chain on a TC?
Doc Sprocket
*********
There are many ways to tension a chain. Slotted motor/jackshaft/axle mounts, spring loaded or mechanical chain tensioners, shims under pillow blocks and other mounts, etc.
bajagokart
New member
So you could slot where the motor is and the jackshaft is and then just move them till it's tight and measure it to make sure it is distanced to spec
r_chez_08
Should be in the shop...
thats what i use. works good.
being new to adjustable tc's, i measured my pulleys and comet says there's a specific belt for it. but mine has the movable js. so i slid the engine forward enough that i could tighten the bolts, and measured center. then i added a size. too bad i didn't check to see if my driven was set right. the key-way is shifted and there was no tension what-so-ever on my movable sheave. i climbed some nice hills (5' at approx. 45*) to the detriment of my belt. the driven is oxidized in place, so when she does cut loose, i will replace the key. i did re-tension the driven, from spring exp. then i read how to do it. haha. and set it to #2.
bajagokart
New member
if you have a 40 series would you mind posting pics of you setup?
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