without a billet rod and flywheel.. you should stay below 6k rpm to be on the safe side!
since you already removed your governor, the next step is upgrading your airfilter and exhaust to be less restrictive (high flow)
As long as you keep the original valve springs, your engine shouldn't be able to rev above 5.5k or maybe 6k rpm if you're lucky.
So, DO NOT UPGRADE the valve springs to 18lbs versions or above.
Now with that airfilter and exhaust in place you can see what it does, sometimes (well most of the times) it's necessary to rejet your carb to the new airflow rate..
means you need a bigger jet (which one needs to be tested depends on ambient temperature as well as humidity as much as the exact flowrate of the airfilter and exhaust)
maybe someone can chime in and give you at least a hint for a predator...
And that's basically it as long as you don't want to upgrade the conrod or flywheel.
which would be the very next step.
a offset flywheel key would shift the power to higher rpms.. and you'll loose on the bottom end, since you're limited to 6k rpm it's of no use..
same goes for any cam out there.. all are intentionally made to get to higher rpms.
(even if some provide more oomph in lower rpms as well)
You also cannot upgrade to a smaller head or higher compression ratios since that'll put more stress on the conrod, which in turn would need an upgrade...
So it's airfilter, carb (jets) and exhaust only for now I'm afraid
'sid
PS what? am I THAT SLOW again... Shoot!..
PPS if the 140 honde e-tube fits, get it
