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penetrating oils

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robbie

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My brother emailed this to me today. I haven't verified it.

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Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports the break out torque values on rusted nuts using the tested penetrating oils.

Results are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used .................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ........................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ..................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50% - 50% by volume automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price!
 

Doc Sprocket

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I think I've seen this data before. I've been meaning to try the ATF/Acetone mix, but every time I have acetone, I invariably end up using it to reduce paint for spraying. I went through my last little bit in the spring, spraying Tremclad on my boat trailer...
 

landuse

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crazzywolfie

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ya. i guess you can't beat that but you never know. with all these synthetic oils thing might have changed. i figure the other penetrating oils also could possibly have got better or worse. i know i have been using liquid wrench super penetrant for a while. managed to get the exhaust manifolds off my truck fairly easily using liquid wrench but i'm still waiting for it to loosen the bumper bolts on my truck so i can get access the gas tank. i might give the atf acetone stuff another shot.
 

jamyers

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I've been so happy using Kroil, I haven't given any thought to trying anything else - but I'll try the ATF/Acetone mix next time I get the chance! Probably need a good plastic spray bottle as well...
 

FatCat

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Ha! I knew my aero kroil was the best stuff. Can't get that smell off you though. Will be trying that home brew stuff for sure. Thanks for sharing.
 

cumminsbayou4x4

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wow that is suppressing that liquid wrench is better then pb blaster that i all was use. im definitely not a fan of wd40 the sprayer thing stops working at half a can plus iv never seen it make a difference
 

91blaze

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wow that is suppressing that liquid wrench is better then pb blaster that i all was use. im definitely not a fan of wd40 the sprayer thing stops working at half a can plus iv never seen it make a difference

WD-40 is a lubricant, not penetrating oil. It's not made for stuck bolts, it's made for stuck parts. Just thought you'd might like to know that.
 

91blaze

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It works for my machinist friend who's been making parts for big companies like AC Delco for longer than I've been alive. It's never caused any problems.
 

Kaptain Krunch

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I've always used water base coolant for machining. I was always taught that you dont actually want a lubricant, as you want the friction to do the cutting, just something to keep the tooling cool. i cant imagine using wd40 is very cost effective. But hey, whatever works.
 

exenos

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I just use old engine oil in a squirt can for a cutting/drilling lubricant. And I can vote for the liquid wrench, it definitely works much better than WD-40.
 

crazzywolfie

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WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a water displacement.
maybe it use to be but according to the WD-40 website it is also a lubricant. now saying that you wont find it in my tool box. i can get the liquid wrench stuff for cheaper than WD-40.

http://www.wd40.com/products/
THE FIVE BASIC FUNCTIONS:

LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.

REMOVES: WD-40 gets under grease, grime, and gunk. WD-40 non-aerosol formulas also dissolve adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.
 

machinist@large

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WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a water displacement.

I only called it that because I use it for machining as a lubricant.

maybe it use to be but according to the WD-40 website it is also a lubricant. now saying that you wont find it in my tool box. i can get the liquid wrench stuff for cheaper than WD-40.

http://www.wd40.com/products/
THE FIVE BASIC FUNCTIONS:

LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and hold firmly to all moving parts.

REMOVES: WD-40 gets under grease, grime, and gunk. WD-40 non-aerosol formulas also dissolve adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape, stickers, and excess bonding material.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.

WD-40 is deodered kerosene with water dispersants added; basically the kerosene is just a carrier for the dispersant agents. It's an extremely poor lubricant; no better than straight kerosene.

That being said, kerosene is commonly recognized as being a good cutting fluid for Aluminum and some of the other Die Cast grade metals. That being said, it makes a real mess being used in that application.

If you want to keep something from rusting for a couple of days indoors WD-40 is OK. That's about it. Any longer than that, or out doors in anything other than a high, dry, Dessert, you need to actually get something rated for preventing rust.

As for getting under grease, grime and gunk, good old fashioned brake & part cleaner, as well as starting fluid (ether) do a better job and cost a lot less.

Basically, the makers of WD-40 are just out to market their way to a more profitable future, the rest of us be ****ed.
 
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