Old man needs governor help clone (Greyhound) 212cc

[Kablooie]

Yes, I did remove the throttle cable, no change. Relatively certain, though uncommon, that the govenor (internally) has came apart or is malfunctioning. I'm putting a camera inside to take a look. Thank you very much for your help.

 

[Hellion]

Edited to add—-> You might as well just go in, Kablooie. Make sure you have a new sump cover gasket as the existing gasket (paper) has a tendency to get destroyed on disassembly. They sometimes get split like when you remove a price tag and have the whole top surface in your hand but there’s another layer stuck on the box.

A lot of folks go into the engine first to either remove the governor, the low oil sensor or to check for manufacturing debris and clean it out (metal shavings or that stinky preservative lube). I think you should master the engine with the governor first and then later remove it as the little folks’ tastes change.

Yes, the red one does say Invader on the pan. I just was not sure about the blue one, but based on your pics, it's probably and invader also. Probably one wild Christmas for a couple kids.

The seats, the front double tube bumper and the rear bumper are fairly unmistakable design features. Pretty easy to ID. But thanks goes to ‘Sid from an earlier thread. That guy is a proverbial walking encyclopedia on karts. He’s on semi-permanent hiatus. https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/no-name-frame-and-throwin-chains.42766/#post-541465

 

[Hellion]

Are you running the engine without the air cleaner assembly attached to the engine and/or without the nuts threaded tightly to the carburetor so it sits tightly on the engine?

If it’s all loose, what you are doing is creating a vacuum leak. If there‘s air leaks between the carburetor and the engine it is like opening the throttle except you cannot control it. You’re bypassing the carburetor and the air filter. Seen lots of folks running without an air cleaner. FYI.

Just one more thing to consider.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Here the basic workings.

In this pic...



The red arrow is pointing to the Idle control screw. The blue paddle will move in direction of arrow when the engine starts. This screw should just hold the butterfly in the carb open just slightly. This is adjusted with a warmed up running engine.

In this next pic..



The nut circled in red should be loosened up just enough for the mechanism to swivel freely. When in "industrial use" like on a pressure washer or the likes, it is tightened to a friction fit to hold the rpm setting. We dont want that on karts.

The screw circled in blue is your wide open throttle stop. It should be screwed out or removed for kart application. In your Pic it is in all the way limiting how far the butterfly can open. This can be used for speed limiting for the kids, but, back it out till you get the total system working properly.


Now you said you removed the linkage and then put it back.
What did you remove?

If you took this lever off of the shaft, you will have to re-clock the arm to the shaft.
The video i linked will explain it.




Now, if you did take that lever off, there might be a chance that an internal button fell off the governor pin that pushes the linkage. If thats the case, then you'll need to open the case and fix it before running the engine. Dont want loose pieces being a cause of grenading your engine.

 

[Kablooie]

I think you are right.

 

[Kablooie]

I did remove the lever.

 

[Kablooie]

Ok, changing my name to "Bonehead". When I removed the governor control arm I must have moved the vertical shaft arm too far and the little nylon cap, inside the casing, that pushes on the governor arm came off. Miracle, but the washer stayed in place, no damage. The cap was safely hiding behind the low oil level switch. I'm sure I have used the wrong names for these parts, but maybe you can figure out what I'm talking about. So now I know what caused the governor to stop working. Thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

 

[Kablooie]

Thanks Whitetrashrocker you nailed the problem.

 

[Hellion]

IF you are going to be speed limiting the kart for the grandbrats, at least initially, make sure that the clutch is engaging at the desired (low) RPM. They are finicky, and if not fully engaged and the engine spinning fast enough to fully engage the clutch shoes, you will be slipping the clutch which will quickly burn the clutch up from the friction heat.

Max-Torque provides a set of clutch springs to tailor the RPM at which the clutch will engage. This too is good reading:

10 Things to Know about a Go Kart Centrifugal Clutch

www.bmikarts.com

 

[panchothedog]

Just pull the side cover off, ( have a new gasket as noted by Hellion ) take a punch and drive the whole assembly out ( from the outside in ) remove the arm from the top of the engine. Fill both holes with a 1/4" fine thread bolt ( with thread locker applied ) 1" for the top hole and 1/2" for side hole. You don't even have to tap the holes. The aluminum is soft enough and the sizes are close enough that you can just screw the bolt into the hole. I have done this on at least 11 engines. It works. Then connect the throttle cable linkage directly to the carburetor. Limit pedal travel to control speed.
" REALLY " putting a camera down the governor hole. These things ain't all that complicated.