Okie needing some help

[KrystyonWayne24]

Ok I got a Murray Explorer go kart that has a Kohler k301as engine on it. I am trying to remove what is left of the clutch on the engine side of the torque converter and I am not having any luck. If you got any suggestions that will help I am open to them. It is a comet 20 series torque converter from what I can see.

[/URL]

 

[anickode]

Looks pretty rusted on there. Start soaking it in penetrating oil a couple times a day for a week. Then go at it with a puller.

 

[Hellion]

^Seconded^.

Penetrating oil, aka PB Blaster (or just Blaster), Liquid Wrench and some new stuff made by the WD-40 people called "Pro" something (but not actual WD-40 which is dang near useless) are some of the best penetrants. Douse it liberally like Anickode said.

Then you're gonna (most likely) need some persuasion with a hammer of decent size and weight. A ball peen hammer is what you need, with which you then you rap with (like at 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock) around the circumference of the clutch piece and see if you can knock it loose. If not immediately, then at least you're inducing vibrations in the pieces that can shake them loose or dislodge some rust particles.

Heat (propane torch), brute force and more penetrating fluid are your friends here. My fervent hope is that you are successful in slaying this demon. Good luck!

EDIT--the rusted outer portion of the shaft is a devious ally in league with the rusted clutch.
It appears you will have to polish the shaft back to shiny brightness and smoothness (or close to it) in order for the clutch to move past it.

 

[qtband]

Are you trying to save the drive pulley & the engine, or just one of them? If you want to save the driver pulley, I'd cut the crank between the pulley and the engine with a hacksaw. Then press it out using a vise and a chisel.
If you want to save the engine, cut off the pulley.
If you want to save both, it can be done (see above) but it will take a while....

 

[KrystyonWayne24]

I just want the engine and I am about to start cutting if I couldn't pry it off. The outer portion that you see rusted looking is just surface rust and it is not part of the crank shaft so I am not worried about it.

 

[Kansaskart]

Have fun that's a hundred pounder. I just picked up a k321 with cast iron slide feet from the ground to my work bench and am currently holding one eyeball in. Im trying to swindle one of those mower guys.

 

[anickode]

Have you taken the bolt out of the end of the shaft? Can't tell from the pic.

Still... Soaking it penetrating oil for a few days and throwing some (not a lot) heat at it would probably do er.

If you cut, I would split it longitudinally down one side with a cutoff wheel first. Tap a wedge into the cut, and try pulling it off. If that doesn't work, make an identical cut 180° from it and try again.

 

[KrystyonWayne24]

Soaked it a bit more and jammed a crowbar behind it and popped right off

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[KrystyonWayne24]

Would I be better of just buying another complete torque converter setup or just buy the engine side of the Comet 20 series and use what is there?

 

[anickode]

Well that depends on what your gauge of "better" is.

If "better" is price, you'd be better buying a TAV clone on fleabay. If your axle sprocket can be moved to the left side, and you can ditch the existing jackshaft, I'd probably go with that option.

But... If your axle sprocket can't be relocated and you buy a TAV kit with an integral jackshaft, you'll have to incorporate your existing jackshaft into the setup, or try to make the TAV driven work on your existing jackshaft and abandon the mounting bracket that comes with it, which as another new member recently found out, isn't always straightforward. In this case, you'd be better off dropping the extra cash for a matching comet driver and a belt. Make sure to get the right kind of driver (symmetrical or asymmetrical) and the right length belt. This will probably set you back $120 or so. Maybe more.

 

[Hellion]

Dadgum. You had it easy. Good job.

I had some gratifying success after some Herculean efforts in removing two wheel hubs that were perfectly rust-welded on. Blowtorch, hammering, 2-jaw gear puller and...application of Liquid Wrench to the still raging-hot axles did them in. The gear puller delivered the coup de grâce and worked a charm after that.

The Almighty hath smiled upon us.