oil cooler on 5.5

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DustinWolfe

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Has anyone done this? havent seen anything anywhere and i think it might be a useful thing for me. is it even possible on a splash type system without an external pump? also this forum keeps making my accounts invalid so not sure how long ill be able to reply.
 

mike75925

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just a question, why do you believe it may be useful to you?

it is possible. the way i see it working is to open the block where the oil pools before going to the crank case. the little hole that the oil does go through would be blocked to encourage the oil flow into the cooler. i'm thinking a 1/4" nipple would allow the oil to flow quick enough not to starve the engine of oil. that nipple would use a hose to connect to cooler, from cooler into the non dipsticked oil filler cap. here's an oil cooler that may work: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CNC-...6259267QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

goo, that's a long link! it would need a block off plug, and a new hole drilled and tapped. depending on it's size, you may need to add a pump or drill a hole not so far down the cooler. the oil would need to be restricted enough to allow for cooling, but not so much that it starves the engine. the size of the return hole in the engine should be the right size. approx. 1/8"?
 

DustinWolfe

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basically it will help me for 2 reasons and also i have one laying around so convenience is a factor. first my engine runs pretty warm so there is number 1 and 2nd i just dont think the oil res. is big enough and adding a little more volume wouldnt hurt. i was thinking about a pulse pump but i think with oil being more viscous that might not work. or maybe it'd work better but id hate to starve it if the oil had to warm up first.
 

r97

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i still dont see the reason to add one, if you really want you could maybe machine away a bit of the underside of your block to end up with an oil cooler like this
 

Doc Sprocket

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Before doing so, you should rig a temperature monitoring system, Could be as simple as a sender in the drain- or low oil sensor- hole, and a gauge. Alternately, you could probably just JB Weld a sender between a couple cooling fins.

What I'm getting at here, is you need to establish if it's worth doing. If the engine is not running on the north side of it's operating range, you're not only wasting your effort, you run the risk of overcooling. This too can significantly shorten the life of your engine. You don't want that! Also, if you do go ahead and set up a cooling system, odds are good you may not get it dialled in the first time through. Without a gauge, you can't tell if you're hitting the ideal operating range. Cheers!
 

DustinWolfe

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yea that seems like a good idea. i was just going off of my own personal experience and it seem that it runs super hot but maybe its just because all my other projects like this were flathead except 1 and it never got ran more than about 10 mins at a time. do ohvs run hotter? probably been answered a million times elswhere.
 
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