off-road frame

[N!ck]

Hey guys, I’m new to the forum so I’m still getting used to how things work. I’ve been wanting to make an off-road go kart for a while now and I’ve pretty much got everything except for the frame all researched up. I’m using a 212cc 6.5hp predator motor, 13” off-road wheels, and 12” dune buggy shocks from gopowersports.com for the off-road kart/mini dune buggy. It’s gonna be about 4’ long by 2’8” wide...just saying for specs which might be useful. I don’t plan to do any huge jumps but more like forest trails and going down (maybe up) curbs. Not sure what kind of frame to go with I was either thinking black steel pipe or pvc filled with fiberglass rods (like driveway markers). I don’t have a welder so with the metal pipe I could screw it in at the sections that I wanted. Problem is that it might be pretty heavy and quite expensive too plus I’m not sure if it could hold the stress. On the other hand I’m leaning towards 1” pvc pipe filled with fiberglass driveway markers. I use that method for my homemade bows which work great even when I only use 2-3 driveway markers. I was thinking of using 4 driveway markers (the maximum amount which will fit into 1” pvc) in 1” pvc and using that for the frame. It’ll be cheaper and flex as a sort of second but stiffer suspension system. Not sure how well either of the ideas would work and I don’t have the money or time to test both methods so some advice would be much appreciated! I’ll check up everyday so I’ll be able to answer any questions and talk some more. Thanks in advance guys!

 

[Nosandwich]

Tell GoPowersports you're a DIY member for a 10% discount.

 

[anickode]

Go to Colin Furze channel on YouTube (it's called colinfurze). He has a video on building a go kart with no welder. He's got some good ideas, and while he builds a road kart, most of the same principles will apply, just bigger wheels and tires.

And am I reading correctly that you want to build a full suspension off road go kart with a 6.5 hp gas engine out of PVC pipe and snow stakes? Sorry if this comes off as rude, but you would be better off with lumber and glue. Seriously.

Your bows work because that is one continuous length. How do you propose connecting the fiberglass cores together at the fittings?

Your best, and really only good option for a weldless kart is square tube and bolted gussets.

 

[N!ck]

@anickdote...no offense taken I was thinking of interlocking the fiberglass rods like interlocking fingers and since I know that the connectors are a lot more brittle than the actual pipe that’s where I’d focus on interlocking the fiberglass, another option would be to just at the joints heat up the pvc connectors with a heat gun (which I have) and ram a steel piece into them to give it structural support, I’ve also seen colinfurze’s videos he has an awesome channel...also wouldn’t square tube be really heavy/why wouldn’t round tube be as good?

 

[anickode]

@anickdote...no offense taken I was thinking of interlocking the fiberglass rods like interlocking fingers and since I know that the connectors are a lot more brittle than the actual pipe that’s where I’d focus on interlocking the fiberglass, another option would be to just at the joints heat up the pvc connectors with a heat gun (which I have) and ram a steel piece into them to give it structural support, I’ve also seen colinfurze’s videos he has an awesome channel...also wouldn’t square tube be really heavy/why wouldn’t round tube be as good?

Square tube is better because it has flat sides to bolt together.

Square tube will be lighter than 1" steel pipe. By a lot. 1" 14ga tube will weigh significantly less.

 

[N!ck]

Dang well thanks for the advice I totally would’ve screwed myself over if I hadn’t asked anyone.�� Where would you advise to get square tube from...would they have it at the local homedepot? Also how heavy would you estimate it to be if I used 14 feet of tube?

 

[Nosandwich]

Google local steel suppliers. Or just mail me a whole bunch of thatextra money you'd spend at HD.

 

[N!ck]

Also I weigh 150 and I told you the rest of the specs so do you think that 14ga is enough for my purposes or should I use something thicker like like anywhere between 11-13ga?

 

[anickode]

Dang well thanks for the advice I totally would’ve screwed myself over if I hadn’t asked anyone.�� Where would you advise to get square tube from...would they have it at the local homedepot? Also how heavy would you estimate it to be if I used 14 feet of tube?

I'm curious how you build a full frame with 14 feet of tube??? Especially one with full suspension? My super econo budget build kart took 24 feet, and it's bordering on uncomfortably small. My frame is 4'6" long, and the engine barely fits on the back, and I barely fit on the front (I'm 5'11")

Don't buy it at home Depot. You'll pay 5x as much as you would at a steel supplier.

And no, 14 gauge should be sufficient, depending on your frame design. You're better off going up a size than thicker wall in terms of strength.

 

[N!ck]

Planing on making it 4’ long and slightly less than 3’ wide...sort of make the base like colin furze. Then since that’ll take the main weight not counting suspensions can build off of that. I’m not exactly going to be doing any huge jumps so I’m not worried about toppling over or anything like that...I’m still working on how I’ll do the front suspension but the back suspension is something I thought of myself (although people have probably done it before I just haven’t seen it). So imagine that the axle is gonna run through a sort of box. (Kind of how colinfurze used on his drift trike) I’ll have the bearing attached to the outside of the box, the sprockets gonna be on the inside of the box...I’ll have pivoting bars coming from the box structure going up at roughly a 45 degree angle to the frame. Then I’ll have part of the frame sort of hanging over the box thing and I’ll have the suspension going from the box to the part of the frame that’s above it. I have no idea if that made sense or not. I’ll be back later. Thx for all the help!

 

[Nosandwich]

Ever heard of paragraphs, ( look it up).

Your posts read like:#×a####÷#÷###@@@@@×@#########@÷@×#####÷×××####@@e emm@@××###××#××××##@×#××××××###@@××.

 

[fasterSr]

to Nick: I THINK what Nosandwich was trying to say...Excuse me but do you perhaps have any pictures or diagrams to show us?

to anickode: "Square tube will be lighter than 1" steel pipe. By a lot. 1" 14ga tube will weigh significantly less."
AND
"14 gauge should be sufficient, depending on your frame design. You're better off going up a size than thicker wall in terms of strength."



THAT is some very usefull info to me as well. TYVM!

 

[anickode]

Planing on making it 4’ long and slightly less than 3’ wide...sort of make the base like colin furze. Then since that’ll take the main weight not counting suspensions can build off of that. I’m not exactly going to be doing any huge jumps so I’m not worried about toppling over or anything like that...I’m still working on how I’ll do the front suspension but the back suspension is something I thought of myself (although people have probably done it before I just haven’t seen it). So imagine that the axle is gonna run through a sort of box. (Kind of how colinfurze used on his drift trike) I’ll have the bearing attached to the outside of the box, the sprockets gonna be on the inside of the box...I’ll have pivoting bars coming from the box structure going up at roughly a 45 degree angle to the frame. Then I’ll have part of the frame sort of hanging over the box thing and I’ll have the suspension going from the box to the part of the frame that’s above it. I have no idea if that made sense or not. I’ll be back later. Thx for all the help!

So I assume your 4' long frame does not include the swing arm? (that's what the whole rear pivoting subframe and engine mount would be called... Swing arm)

That sounds a bit more realistic.

 

[N!ck]

@anickode...yeah pretty much a sort of swing arm. I’d need the pivots to be attached exactly in line with the center of the sprockets so that the chain distance wouldn’t increase or decrease so it wouldn’t fall off. And yes, the frame would be 4’ long not including the pivot arms or any other parts.

Right now I’m researching all the parts I need and everything I’ve got to have before I start drawing out a final design. Once I start that then I’ll know what else to add. It’s my first time so I want to take it slowly and not rush through it.

And nope sorry don’t have any pictures yet but I’ll see if I can get some diagrams done in the next week or so.

 

[firemanjim]

Not trying to be rude, but Im gonna guess you're like 14-15?
I have kids and would in no way encourage a go kart built from PVC and fiberglass. Its just not safe.... You would be much safer using lumber..... And that's not all that safe either.
You know, I would really encourage you to buy a cheap hf 90 amp flux core welder with your kart money. You will end up with a much safer and better built kart. Do not buy hf welding wire though. Use miller , or i use Washington alloys wire. Miller is the way to go. Buy it from welding supply, not homedepot.
There are plenty of videos on welding. Buy a short stick of 1" round and square tube , .065" or .08" thick wall.... Use that to practice. Cut up 6" long pieces and weld joints like you would building the frame. Thin wall tubing ,run welder on low at about 6-7 on the wire speed. Its not that difficult to get a good working weld. A good working weld that looks good , takes more practice....
Where abouts are ya from ? Maybe a member lives close and could "help ya learn" how to weld good enough for a kart.....