Not a Go-Cart, but have a question about an engine often used in them.

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scrubberguy

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Hey everyone, I'm a floor scrubber mechanic, and recently discovered my onboard air compressor powered by a Honda GX160 has elec. start! Been pull starting it for a few years, and want to take advantage of the elec. Start.

My work van is a Ford transit 250. I did find a aux. Power point on the rear side of the drivers seat rated to 60A. I've obtained 20ft of 4ga cable to run between the compressor and battery.....anybody have an idea of how many amps these elec starters pull?? Say worst case scenario max amps (long cable, cold weather oil thick etc.) Thanks for the help. I tried googling the info with no luck. So figured I'd try here...

I did find a starter on Amazon rated at 2amps but that seems a little too low for me to believe.

Also do you think, I'll need to wire in a diode to keep the charging system of the air compressor from frying my van electronics? With a little jump pack used to verify the starter is operational I measured between 24-29 volts at high idle before the pilot valve kicked the engine into low idle/bypass

Thanks in advance

- Scrubberguy
 
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scrubberguy

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Denny said:
Usually the battery is there to buffer high voltage spikes. Why not just mount a small tractor battery to the compressor and leave the van’s electrical system out of it.
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I tried to convince my manager that this would be the easiest way to go about it (but I would have to use whatever 12V batteries we stock which is a larger automotive battery group 24) my Manger insisted I run cables to the vehicle battery....so now I'm researching info to make sure I do it correctly.
 
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I'd run a pair of lines off the battery terminals to the rear, put an inline fuse just ahead of a toggle ran to a directional plug just ahead of the engines control panel so the compressor can be completely disconnected from the vehicle if needed... if I had to do it the way "the boss says".

I'm with everyone else, add a battery box to the compressor dolly and keep the damn thing fully mobile.
 
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scrubberguy

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RLS_Underground said:
I'd run a pair of lines off the battery terminals to the rear, put an inline fuse just ahead of a toggle ran to a directional plug just ahead of the engines control panel so the compressor can be completely disconnected from the vehicle if needed... if I had to do it the way "the boss says".

I'm with everyone else, add a battery box to the compressor dolly and keep the damn thing fully mobile.
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I was going to disconnect the charge coil to be safe....but I'm starting to think maybe I'll just pop for the battery outta pocket to avoid the headache. any particular Battery anyone recommend? Based on personal experience??
Saw several people going the route of Sealed Lead Acid like for alarm systems/safety lights. the starter system recommends anything that has a minimal of 18aH rating.

And thanks again for all the replies!!

- Scrubberguy
 
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BrownStainRacing

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scrubberguy said:
I was going to disconnect the charge coil to be safe....but I'm starting to think maybe I'll just pop for the battery outta pocket to avoid the headache. any particular Battery anyone recommend? Based on personal experience??
Saw several people going the route of Sealed Lead Acid like for alarm systems/safety lights. the starter system recommends anything that has a minimal of 18aH rating.

And thanks again for all the replies!!

- Scrubberguy
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Makes sense to me.

Less bs
Less money spent

To get the same results, yeap that's the way I would do it.
 
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People generally use lawn mower batteries, but in the cold weather you'll want to put a maintainer on it. Otherwise those batteries will go bad every season
 
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scrubberguy

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Now I'm undecided.

I don't want to deal with maintaining the battery. Plus I'll have to out of pocket the cost, on my dime for it, and then again if/when it fails.

sometimes the air compressor goes weeks without use, some weeks it's everyday. Lack of use/not charging isn't good for any battery.

The air compressor is semi permanently mounted in the van (not on wheels) so now wirning directly to vehicle battery makes a little more sense to me.

I think im going to wire directly to battery, install a 70A circuit breaker near the battery (again no clue how many amps these things actually draw and no info on the internet or anywhere to be found) and then remove the charge coil and call it a day. 70A circuit breaker and 20ft of 4ga should be plenty....I hope.

-scrubberguy
 
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scrubberguy said:
I think im going to wire directly to battery, install a 70A circuit breaker near the battery (again no clue how many amps these things actually draw and no info on the internet or anywhere to be found) and then remove the charge coil and call it a day. 70A circuit breaker and 20ft of 4ga should be plenty....I hope.

-s-scrubberguy
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50A is the smallest fuse I've managed to not blow cranking over my 208. 40A got 2 startups and popped
 
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scrubberguy said:
This is the kind of information I was looking for thank you!
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30A got one attempted start and popped before the engine started.
20A popped the second the relay closed

You're welcome. Im running a mountable dual fuse block that is designed to be ziptied to something or pined by 2 screws I believe it may actually be a car audio fuse cradle.
50A dedicated to the starter alone, 30A for the system.
 
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