Problem I'm having is my kart isn't producing much for rpms at top end it kinda just plains out instead of winding out..,I'm running a 6.5 clone governor has been removed ,I've installed a t/c ,header pipe,k&n air filter It has 10tooth on the jack,and 65 on the axle,any ideas of what could be the issue ???
no rpm's
- Thread starter markymac
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exenos
Project Nut
What size tires do you have? Should have something 13" or under with that gearing. Too tall of tires may be your problem.
OzFab
Well-known member
That's even worse...
Something in the high 70s will be getting close...
Something in the high 70s will be getting close...
exenos
Project Nut
Eh, I guess neither of us saw the t/c part in your first post. Oops, you'll be fine with your stock gearing. I'd check that the torque converter isn't shifting too early. Also try tightening the driven spring get a few notches. Each notch will hold have it shift a few hundred ? rpm higher.
exenos
Project Nut
None specifically for adjusting the spring that I know of, but just take a look at it. Looking at the driven from the back of the kart you should see a coil spring in the driven. On one of the sides there should be a set of 5 holes large enough to put the end of the spring in to. You just change holes to change the shift point. Sorry I cant be more specific but I've never played around with a comet torque converter, I'm basing this off of what I know about sled clutches.
Doc Sprocket
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A couple things come to mind.
Did you properly remove the governor, or just bypass it?
Observe your throttle and carb carefully. Be sure that pushing the gas pedal all the way down ACTUALLY opens the carb butterfly to wide open. Is the CVT new? Is it the correct belt? Is the belt installed correctly? Have you checked your A/F mixture?
Did you properly remove the governor, or just bypass it?
Observe your throttle and carb carefully. Be sure that pushing the gas pedal all the way down ACTUALLY opens the carb butterfly to wide open. Is the CVT new? Is it the correct belt? Is the belt installed correctly? Have you checked your A/F mixture?
Yes its a new t/c, and i completely removed the governor,the t/c came with the belt,it lasted maybe 4hrs of riding, poor quality I'm guessing ,since then I've replaced with another and seem to be having better luck with that one,i was looking at the t/c and there are 3 holes for the spring ,its set in the middle one not sure if that's proper or not.its the way it came when i bought it..
Doc Sprocket
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Check your mixture. I don't think adjusting the driven spring tension is your issue. After the engine mods, you may be running lean.
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Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Try running with choke partially closed. See if things improve.
Doc Sprocket
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You did not mention in your first post that you had a non-OEM carb on there. Now I REALLY suspect an Air-Fuel mix issue.
Look for vac leaks around the carb to manifold junction, and at the engine. With the engine running, spray carb cleaner around these joints. If there's ANY change, you have a leak, leaning you out.
Failing that, read the sparkplug. Take a full-throttle, high-speed pass and shut 'er down while your foot is still buried. Take the plug out and inspect it. If the ceramic insulator (the white conical shaped part that the center electrode protrudes from) is white, you're far too lean and need to work on your jetting. I suspect this is the case.
Look for vac leaks around the carb to manifold junction, and at the engine. With the engine running, spray carb cleaner around these joints. If there's ANY change, you have a leak, leaning you out.
Failing that, read the sparkplug. Take a full-throttle, high-speed pass and shut 'er down while your foot is still buried. Take the plug out and inspect it. If the ceramic insulator (the white conical shaped part that the center electrode protrudes from) is white, you're far too lean and need to work on your jetting. I suspect this is the case.
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