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[Joel]

Hi guys. I'm back again from a long break. I don't hav pics on this phone right now but I'll try to get some.
I just bought a dingo kart from my neighbor. Wonderful condition. It has a 5 hp Briggs on it and it is slow and doesn't hav much power and that is not my type of thing.
Where shud I start for more power and speed??

 

[chancer]

Put on a predator and a Torque converter.

 

[Functional Artist]

Another Dingo? Kool!

Get a a DIY sticker.

I hear it will add 2 to 3 HP & it looks kool too.

 

[Joel]

Put on a predator and a Torque converter.

I have a predator that is all apart right now and it has a tc already so that might work. The only problem is that the engine is smack up against the seat so I don't know if the predator will fit.

 

[chancer]

Make it fit. lol
But seriously a dingo should have no problem fitting a 212. Kartfab has a GX390 on his.

 

[Eric87]

Do this

 

[Eric87]

That is a dingo with a predator on it

 

[ultralight01]

That is a dingo with a predator on it

6.5, 8, or 13hp?

 

[Eric87]

6.5, 8, or 13hp?

212

 

[Hellion]

Horsepower man, horsepower!

 

[chancer]

Do this

I do not see how raising the engine 1" gives you more room, specially if the seat is angled back.

 

[bob58o]

I do not see how raising the engine 1" gives you more room, specially if the seat is angled back.

I think it is also shifted aft?

And maybe the TC Backplate needed some room, so the Engine got lifted?

 

[Eric87]

Yes the motor was moved up and back . To clear the seat and make room for a torque converter. There is no dingo without a torque converter.

 

[hardcorewill]

Motor mount

Motor mounted on 2inch square tubing for tc clearance.

 

[Eric87]

Motor mounted on 2inch square tubing for tc clearance.

I see the reason for the motor lift . But why did you cut the frame? You could have just made the 2" tubes 11" long and moved the motor back that way. No frame mod needed . Unless you wanted to stretch the wheel base. Your end result does look good . Just not sure I would want to lose all that frame.

 

[chancer]

I see the reason for the motor lift . But why did you cut the frame? You could have just made the 2" tubes 11" long and moved the motor back that way. No frame mod needed . Unless you wanted to stretch the wheel base. Your end result does look good . Just not sure I would want to lose all that frame.

Go see his thread. that is an articulating Frame!
and the silver parts on the very back is a Cooler rack!
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=34066

 

[Eric87]

Go see his thread. that is an articulating Frame!
and the silver parts on the very back is a Cooler rack!
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=34066

I thought that's what was going on . I did skim over his thread a little.

 

[pRoFiT]

Is he using car tires!! i got to go look at his thread now. thanks guys. I've got similar pred/tav on mine and i think i need to bring it up 2" as well from frame. hmm. good to see someone with it mounted that way.

 

[Denny]

On a stock Dingo the driven should be down and close to the seat on the 5 hp models.


Denny

 

[Functional Artist]

Yes the motor was moved up and back . To clear the seat and make room for a torque converter. There is no dingo without a torque converter.

Not so fast, there Buster!

I got a Dingo without a torque converter.

Check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5EK9EOulsY

On this test ride, the controller had some issues but, the kart moved right along.

It's only set up to run @ 36V right now, which with this motor, tops out @ 2,592 RPM's.

FYI: These motors produce 72 RPM's per volt of input & capable of running up to 72V.

So, if it's run @ 48V it produces 3,456 RPM's & so on.

@ 72V it would be cranking @ a whopping 5,184 RPM's

Instant torque & no (power robbing) converter required!