Newbie with alot of questions

[Fireman15]

Hey guys, Im brand new to go karts. Never had one before, just got some property to ride so decided to get a cheap toy. I used to be a little import rice burner guy so Im familiar with squeezing extra hp from low displacement. Im feeling my way through the kart motors. Ive read alot of you guys post already (I can use a search function) and could use you guys knowledge.

First off, I bought this off craiglist a couple days ago. Guy was asking $375, I payed $300. The guy had minimal info for me. Said it was given to him by a friend whose kids outgrew it. his kids broke the belt, it got pulled into a shed and sat there for the past few years. Im not sure how much of this is true because the motor seemed rather cleaned for years of sitting. Also he said the brakes need to be adjusted. But first off can anyone ID the cart for me? No idea what kind it is.

Pic 1 & 2

Secondly I need a little info about my motor. Google wasnt very helpful. Its a Suzuki Robin 6.5 hp (Doesnt say EX17). Motor start on first pull everytime. Looks real clean. Fresh oil change. Only problem I've found is the fuel bowl on the carb is leaking, I assume thats an easy gasket fix. There was also no air filter in it, which I was gonna replace anyways. Im seeing alot about GX200 clones, is this one of them? Does that mean GX200 intakes/exhaust will bolt up? Also will the GX160 head be a bolt on for me?

Pic 3-5

Next, any idea what kind of sprockets do I got? The smaller one was about 1.5" and has 10 teeth. The larger was roughly 9" with 66 teeth (I think).

Pic 6

Ive also been reading bewtween torque converter and cCfuge clutches. Ill be off road mostly so I believe the torque converter is what I want. This is a torque converter correct?

Pic 7

As soon as i I bought it I went to buy the belt. Put it on and headed straight for the sand dunes. Bottomed out on a log and the chain popped off. Pushed it home then replaced the chain. Made it about 15' this time then popped off again. Looking at the sprocket its definately roughed up but it should hold a chain. I read somewhere that aligning the sprockets was key, and usually visual is not good enough. I couldnt find a guide how do it so what is my best option to ling these up with basic tools?

Thanks for the helps guys.

Oh yeah I figure I should post my build plans here.

Remove governor
18lbs valve springs
intake
exhaust
A new sprocket, as soon as I figure out what I have, Ill know better what Ill be replacing with.

 

[smgs92]

well first off that is a manco silver fox. I used to have one its a great kart but has quite a heavy frame.
the engine is Subaru* not suzuki.
these are not honda clones these engines are just as good if not better than a genuine honda.
the bad about these is there is very little performance parts available. I don't think you can get valve springs for this, but you can get an exhaust from robertson torque pipes or make your own. I made my own intake adaptor and I know you can get a billet flywheel which is a must if you remove the governor.
a torque convertor is needed for this kart a clutch won't hold up

 

[OzFab]

the engine is Subaru* not suzuki.

It even says so on the starter housing...

I know you can get a billet flywheel which is a must if you remove the governor.

You shouldn't if you stick with the stock springs.

When you remove the governor, you should start to get valve bounce around 5000rpm; this becomes your new natural governor & should (somewhat) protect the engine. If you upgrade the valve springs as well, theres nothing protecting your internals or flywheel from self destructing

a torque convertor is needed for this kart a clutch won't hold up

... which is what you have. To be fair, a clutch will run it but, not well & not for long. Besides, you have a torque converter, why go backwards.

It's possible that, when it bottomed out, you bent the sprocket or, worse still, the axle; if it's throwing the chain, a visual inspection should tell you: Raise the rear of the kart using axle stands or similar, slowly turn the rear wheels & watch the axle & sprocket through two full revolutions each, report back

 

[smgs92]

if you bent the axle I would suggest instead of running another hex axle to upgrade a a round keyed axle because parts will become much more universal.
Brakes on that kart stock are mechanical disc, I could never adjust them to actually make any stopping power so I finally just removed them. I do not suggest this but I suggest upgrading to hydraulic brakes again the keyed axle makes stuff much more universal.

 

[Fireman15]

Thanks guys. The front of my motor mount was loose. Im assuming the engine was torqueing under load. Welded it took it out and broke it again lol. Im in the process of adding my own reinforcements, ill post some pics later.

I got an intake adapter and cone for the gx200 today and it pretty much fits. Just needed longer bolts from carb. Cant find any allthread rods in metric around here. Ordered one so should have an intake/exhaust shortly. Guess thats the end of the engine mods for me :/

 

[smgs92]

you can get a billet flywheel like i said which will decrease the rotational weight increasing power and acceleration and rejetting is important

 

[Fireman15]

Think ill be picking up a gx390 clone. Want something i can tinker with. Prob just find a 1 seater for this motor.

From my understanding a lighter flywheel willl just spool faster and hold up under high rpms. If i cant get stiffer springs, i think a new flywheel will be very negligible gains

 

[OzFab]

You're half right. A billet flywheel is spun from a single piece of aluminium which makes it lighter & stronger, unlike a stock flywheel which is cast & will tend to crack under hard loads/high speeds.

So, the engine can safely run at a higher RPM for longer but, also, because the billet flywheel is lighter, it will reach max RPM faster, therefore, increasing acceleration

 

[Fireman15]

Yeah. But if stock valves float around 5k, and i cant get stiffer springs, i just be buying a new flywheel for faster spool ups, id bever hit the rpms to shatter the stock one. Im not doubting it will add power, just negligible for the $ spent and time i stalling.

Def think ill be going with a clone motor, justfor the aftermarket support.

Side note, what fear ratio should i be aiming for? Im off road most with 18" tires. Im seeing about 7:1. Im at 6.6:1 right now and really dissapointed with the top end. With a torque converter, can i roll a 5.5-6:1 and still be able to roll?

 

[slipknot23]

Performance SUBARU PARTShttp://www.smallengineperformance.com.au/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=12&vmcchk=1&Itemid=12

 

[smgs92]

the only problem with that site is its in Aussy.
I can tell you from personal experience you will have to do a decent amount of modding if you plan to run a gx390 clone in that kart. If you don't have a welder or don't want to invest in 1 then I'd find a smaller engine.
Here is a pic of my gx390 sitting in the kart I never got to run it because the engine was too big I couldn't fit a torque converter on there plus the engine would hit the frame when the suspension was under load.

 

[Fireman15]

Oh really. I do have a little shop i tinker with things, with a welder. Im not interested in making a new suspension though. Do uou think the 340 would fit or still to small? Id hate to get another motor the same size as i got just to mod it :s

 

[Doc Sprocket]

Couple random points here-

If you buy a big-block (GX340, 390, etc) you're into a new torque convertor ($$$)

Second- the billet flywheel is all fine and good, but the connecting rod is much more likely to let go at higher RPM then the 'wheel. Wouldn't it just SUCK to sink $300 into a fancy-pants flywheel only to blow the rod?

 

[smgs92]

I'm not real sure I think it might still be too big.
I think you could probably fit an 8hp flathead briggs though. There should be a big aftermarket still available, or you could possibly find an animal, or pick up a 212 but i feel like the 212 is too small to move that heavy kart easily.
I know a 9hp robin will fit.

 

[landuse]

Yeah. But if stock valves float around 5k, and i cant get stiffer springs, i just be buying a new flywheel for faster spool ups, id bever hit the rpms to shatter the stock one. Im not doubting it will add power, just negligible for the $ spent and time i stalling.

Def think ill be going with a clone motor, justfor the aftermarket support.

Side note, what fear ratio should i be aiming for? Im off road most with 18" tires. Im seeing about 7:1. Im at 6.6:1 right now and really dissapointed with the top end. With a torque converter, can i roll a 5.5-6:1 and still be able to roll?

IMO, I would gear slightly lower than 7:1 with your setup

 

[OzFab]

Performance SUBARU PARTShttp://www.smallengineperformance.com.au/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=12&vmcchk=1&Itemid=12

Ha, thanks. Now I know where I can get performance parts

 

[smgs92]

Couple random points here-

If you buy a big-block (GX340, 390, etc) you're into a new torque convertor ($$$)

Second- the billet flywheel is all fine and good, but the connecting rod is much more likely to let go at higher RPM then the 'wheel. Wouldn't it just SUCK to sink $300 into a fancy-pants flywheel only to blow the rod?

I'd much rather blow a rod than have a flywheel let go at high rpm's that is scary if you've ever seen it happen.
and where are you getting $300 for a flywheel??

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I'd much rather blow a rod than have a flywheel let go at high rpm's that is scary if you've ever seen it happen.

You kinda missed the point. Stock part against stock part, you're many, many times more likely to lose the rod instead of the 'wheel. If you're going to pony up the bucks for the wheel, you'd be quite foolhardy not to do the rod at the same time. As for the ever-persistent nuclear flywheel myth, very few peple have actually seen one go, especially on an engine with stock internals. Maybe YOU have. Probably you haven't. It's amazing how many people go on and on about these little aluminum grenades, with no real experience or even evidence. In order for there to be GOOD odds of detonating your 'wheel, you'd have to run a stock 'wheel on an engine that's been built to turn insane RPM. If you do this, you're an idiot.

and where are you getting $300 for a flywheel??

I've seen them get pretty high. Granted, they're a fair bit more in Canada. Call it exaggeration to make a point.

EDIT- The fine print: there is ALWAYS some potential for a 'wheel to go at ANY RPM, including idle. Unknown manufacturing flaws, or previous abuse like some twit beating it off the engine with a BFH. This is what we call an occupational hazard. You could get killed crossing the street, too. In fact, I'd go so far as to say you've got better odds of getting killed crossing the street...