Newbie needs help....please

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Lazrslong

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Just heard the same from the guy I got the kart from. Whew...Im just used to mating surfaces actually ending where you expect them to I guess. Thanks guys. Fortunately I work for an auto-parts store. Tomorrow shall be more expense.
 

Lazrslong

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Will do Po-Boy. Nashville to be exact. Yep...that one. But Ill do the profile and up a few pictures either tonight or tomorrow
 

Lazrslong

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LOL, okay...profile added to. Avatar of God knows what Im doing to that F150 (okay...truth told...putting in a long block 4.2...never ever take on that job...ever) Pictures of the cart to follow.

Thanks again
 

Lazrslong

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A little visual stimuli

Heres the problem I guess I dont have. The shaft not going all the way to the end of the splined hub (thats normal huh?)
 

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Lazrslong

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The progress so far

What the heck was I thinking
 

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landuse

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Looking good. Just a heads up....there is an edit button on the bottom right of each post. If you have more info to add, please do it through editing your post instead of doing multiple posts
 

Lazrslong

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All new conundrum

The pictures tell the story. The clutch system with its plate as i got it doesn't line up at all for the belt (with the driven and drive sprockets aligned) There's not enough room to move the gears far enough. Can the driven sprocket be turned around and the drive sprocket put to the outside of the clutch? Also, from the extra holes drilled into the mounting frame for the engine, someones had the motor even further right than the existing plate. Holy Crap Batman...what have I gotten myself into? Is it time to look at a centrifugal clutch. It look's like I can make that mate with the driven sprocket, there's adjustment enough for that on the driveshaft.

The clutch, if I didnt say it before is a Comet 20 P5

Still hoping to hear back from you gurus. At a stand still till I do
 

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firemanjim

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Unbolt the driven and slide it off. Slide off the sprocket, it should be a separate piece. Put the driven back on, then the sprocket. Don't flip the driven. It should line up correctly then.....
 

Lazrslong

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Thanks Jim, It didnt, I got that far...the driven is a solid sprocket. Ended up going to a kart place I found here in Nashville. You'd not believe this place Looks like a rathole from the front...go inside and theres a 20,000 square foot warehouse with literally thousands of bikes and karts. The owner (ex army pilot, calls himself Major Tom) looked at the set-up and explained that it wouldn't work with the predator engine. As it happens, he needed to go buy three of those this week, so he gave me full credit for the new one. I have the 5hp Briggs. I swapped him the new engine for a new centrifugal clutch (a max-torque...please tell me its not a P.O.S.) and a 70 tooth driven sprocket. +10 bucks. So, now Im removing everything back there and changing out the sprocket. I believe that will also give me a far better ratio for the little guy. If we did the math right it should be right around 6:1 in the end (those big tires on the back). Now...any decent links for a manual on getting this shaft out. all kinds of set screws. Im not sure what has to be removed from the drive side but it looks to me like the wheel (done...wow what fun that was) the set screws on the brake, the driven sprocket and I should be able to slide it out to the right. Correct? BTW, you guys have been a Godsend. Thanks a lot. Leo
 

firemanjim

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Wait.... WHAT??!??
What all was traded, by who? The way I read it, you got screwed....
And max torque is a good clutch, but not worth a $100....
 

Denny

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Note to Self: Never deal with a guy named Major anything from Nashville. No wonder he was so nice he was screwing you. Remember we profit nothing from helping people he has to pay for that fancy warehouse. :iagree:

Denny
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chancer

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Is there a name to "Major Toms" 20,000 sq ft Nashville go kart Warehouse? We need to warn everybody.
 

Lazrslong

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LOL, Yall missed a crucial part.

Is there a name to "Major Toms" 20,000 sq ft Nashville go kart Warehouse? We need to warn everybody.
Guys guys...."and the driven sprocket" (with the hub). Holy (name the nasty noun) Batman, Ive started a march on Nashville and riot.

The engine was $90 +tax. He retails the clutch for $59 the sprocket and hub would have been another $69 and he saved me a cross town trip to Harbor Freight to bring the Pred back (not to mention the hassle of returns),

I did okay...not great...but okay. LOL What about getting the axle out?

I do have to commend you for being so willing to out a shuyster...but he's not.

Leo
 

chancer

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I guess you did alright. But it was not any smoking great deal.
BMI 52 clutch and yeah 34 or 40 sprocket and hub. Puts him near $90.
Plus no shipping cost, no waiting, no driving to Harbor Frt. All parts in hand you walk away and get to go play.:thumbsup:
 

Lazrslong

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Play my foot! Its 80 sunny and muggy in nashville today. Just got the danged axle out. Good thing as the bearings are pretty darned rough. Whoever had this thing before decided it was a good idea to spot weld the set screw for the brake bell. I wonder if he's ever heard of a drill and tap? But all free and axle dropped. Getting new bearings Tuesday and I should be able to pop it back together. Any advice for the new guy before I start bolting it up. Im going to emery cloth the axle around the bearing cradle areas. The center bearing seems fine. Any reason not to leave it in place?

Edit: The brake drum is toast. The set screw was spot welded because the second screw was froxen (two allen wrenches and a half can of PB blaster later, I'm pretty sure she aint movin. Ive seen the same one as on there for 19.99 online...others with a bolted on drum for 24.99. Whats the best way to go?

Thanks. Leo

Edit edited: What's the Comet 20 p5 worth? Major Tom said it was in good shape. It all seems to work. cleaned up nicely. springs got plenty of tension. I'm not goin back into Major Tom's without knowing the value of what I have. Figure it's worth at the least the bearings and the brake drum, no?
 
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chancer

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I meant "play" as in get right to work building this kart. I hate waiting on parts or driving around all day to get them.
Yes would say emory cloth the axle. NOT too much. But I have had little spots where the set screws mar the axle, and then new parts wont slide on easily.
Also just since you have it all apart (and you now know it is not easy) might as well at this time replace the center bearing.
Not sure the value of the comet 20, but I think it costs new a lot more than a brake drum and bearings.
Comet 20:http://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gom...miniclutchtorq20/gominiclutchtorq20drive.html
 

Lazrslong

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Is this correct?

Okay, broke the cardinal rookie rule. I didnt take before pictures. Sorry. So, is this right? The orientation of the bearing keepers and the hub of the driven sprocket specifically. I've included pics of what I believe to be correct. Is there a Yurf Dog manual out there somewhere? Ive looked at the threads and not found anything that matches. The model number is gone on the frame. "Major Tom" used to assemble these for Walmart and tells me that he thinks the frame is circa 1992 to 1995. Thanks Leo
 

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Lazrslong

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Thanks for the reminder. Had to cut the PVC covering (what the heck is that for...? To me it just added rust by trapping moisture against the axle's steel...but I'm putting it back because it was there)as the new bearings have "keepers" and the overall length of each is about 3/16" longer than the original bearings.

I'd asked before what the comet TC was worth. its in good shape. Is asking "Major Tom to trade a set of front tires and a brake band reasonable?
 
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