New user quick clutch question.

[Blueknight]

Ok I have the 7/8" output on the snowblower engine. (From what I've read this has been kicked to death twice...)

Anyways I have a 3/4 clutch. I'm thinking of drilling out the middle of the hub to 7/8" also the bell side would get the same treatment.
The bell I would only be cutting into the bronze bushing... no big deal..as of yet. On the hub side the part the bell rides on is 7/8 so that would be gone. Do you think it would be alright-ish to have the bell side bushing ride on the crank shaft its self? I would shim it so it spaced right for riding on the clutch itself.





I see the only problem is possible wear on the crank snout..

Any other thoughts on this?

And thanks..

---------- Post added at 12:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 AM ----------

And on a second thought I wouldn't have to drill the bell side bushing, it's already 7/8"



---------- Post added at 12:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

I could also dremel a groove for the snap ring to fit the crank. I wouldn't "have" to add the bolt and washer in theroy... but would anyways..

 

[itsid]

Bad idea IMHO..
the second you cut of the stem from the baseplate you'll get into trouble...
no way the bell will run smoothly on the crankshaft (bushing reamed or not)

just buy a clutch! (your's is in terrible shape anyways)

BTW you sure it's a 7/8"?? more common would be metric 22mm shaft (almost 7/8")
just saying

'sid

 

[anickode]

7/8" is still a fairly common shaft size on some equipment that uses a stub shaft.

Drilling out any finished bore is a bad idea. Twist drill bits do not produce a truly round hole, and you'd be destroying the keyway and bushing in the process, if the keyway did not destroy your drill bit. The appropriate tool for that job would be a lathe and a boring bar, then a broach to recut the keyway. As for the bushing (bell) end, there isn't enough metal there to work with, and removing the bushing to achieve a 7/8" bore would inevitably end up making the bell end seize to the shaft.

You need a shaft that's long enough to go through the bell end of the clutch anyway.

What kind of engine is it? You can probably get a different crank for it pretty cheap.

I have a GC160 in the garage with a 1" long, 7/8" diameter crank, and after weighing my options, decided a new 3/4" full length crank was the way to go. Only $31 new from Jack's. Cheaper than a 7/8" clutch, and way cheaper than welding an extension and turning the existing shaft to size.

And if you don't already have a set of Silver & Deming bits, the drill bit you'd have to buy to destroy your clutch might be more expensive than a new crankshaft