New to oxy acetylene

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getting kart smart

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I recently purchased an oxy acetylene torch kit. I have played around with it a bit and can get the job done but I have some ugly cuts. I don't think I have the regulated pressure set properly. Can someone tell me how many lbs or Kpa I should be using for the oxygen and acetylene?
 

machinist@large

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I recently purchased an oxy acetylene torch kit. I have played around with it a bit and can get the job done but I have some ugly cuts. I don't think I have the regulated pressure set properly. Can someone tell me how many lbs or Kpa I should be using for the oxygen and acetylene?

If you are cutting, then NO MORE than 20 PSI for Oxygen and 5 PSI for Acetylene. If you are gas welding, the rule is 5 and 5: 5 PSI O to 5 PSI A; you adjust your heat range by swapping to the correct size welding tip.

Acetylene is very dangerous: when you exceed 15 PSI, it becomes extremely unstable. If you chose to venture into those uncharted waters, you're on your own.

Here's something that this site needs to admit; most arc welding procedures are much safer than anything involving compressed welding gasses. This stuff is dangerous (take your biggest O**** moment trying to light you gas grill, then multiply it by at least 10) .

If you're not 100% sure about what you are doing, please consider signing up for classes at an appropriate training facility; I personally don't want someone disfigured or mortally wounded because they didn't know what the tiger they were twisting the tail of could do.............
 

jamyers

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I'm with you regarding the need to be EXTRA careful with O/A gear.

Are you saying to weld with O at just 5 and A between 0 and 5? If so, I need to turn my regulators down.


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machinist@large

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I'm with you regarding the need to be EXTRA careful with O/A gear.

Are you saying to weld with O at just 5 and A between 0 and 5? If so, I need to turn my regulators down.


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5&5; no more, no less; you use the individual gas valves to balance your flame & get it to neutral. Most torch kits usually have tip sizes ranging from 0 to 5 (some times 6). If you have to open up the valves to the point that the torch roars, then you need to step up a size. When gas welding, when you have the correct size tip, the sound should be just a soft, mellow hiss. Conversely, if you can't "throttle it down" to just the heat you need, switch to the next smaller tip.

This is just another one of those things that would be SOOOOO much easier to explain if we were next door neighbors; describing it in words, or trying to teach it via U-Tube just seems to make things just that much harder.......:oops::surrender:

Pat
 

Bluethunder3320

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at school we have the acetylene 5-7psi. theres no need to go any higher, ive cut steel an inch thick.

also only crack the acetylene valve on the cylinder. opening it up all the way just takes longer to close when you have an emergency and need to shut the tank off. once we had a leaky hose and grinder sparks lit the hose on fire. you dont want to be turning the valve 5 times to close it!

when lighting the torch, start by turning the acetylene on first. then oxygen. when done, turn the acetylene off first, then oxygen.
 

Doc Sprocket

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With regards to the instability of Acetylene beyond 15psi-

I was reading about that in a trades handbook I have while killing time today. The book made it sound very much like the CYLINDER pressure is not greater than 15 PSI. Therefore, I ask: No matter how high you turn the regulator or torch, how can output pressure possibly exceed cylinder pressure? Or did I misread something?
 

devino246

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With regards to the instability of Acetylene beyond 15psi-

I was reading about that in a trades handbook I have while killing time today. The book made it sound very much like the CYLINDER pressure is not greater than 15 PSI. Therefore, I ask: No matter how high you turn the regulator or torch, how can output pressure possibly exceed cylinder pressure? Or did I misread something?

Acetylene is dissolved in acetone or dimethylformamide for storage and transportation. The tanks are filled with Agamassan (shown below) and filled half way with acetone or dimethylformamide.

It's important to note, if an acetylene cylinder ever spends any amount of time on its side, it should be set upright and left for 24 hours before use. This will allow the acetone/DMF to settle to the bottom of the tank.
 

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machinist@large

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With regards to the instability of Acetylene beyond 15psi-

I was reading about that in a trades handbook I have while killing time today. The book made it sound very much like the CYLINDER pressure is not greater than 15 PSI. Therefore, I ask: No matter how high you turn the regulator or torch, how can output pressure possibly exceed cylinder pressure? Or did I misread something?

You're correct about the rough max pressure on an Acetylene cylinder being approx. 15 PSI. The reason the pressure is so low (and the reason things get unstable around that point) is that Acetylene isn't stored under pressure; it's stored in solution in Acetone. When you crank up the pressure, you also crank up the rate of extraction; when you are trying to pull off the tank at a higher rate than the boiling point in the tank (think pulling the Co2 off a two liter bottle that's full), you start pulling the Acetone out of the tank as well (hence things getting unstable).

That's why you always need to match your torch to the size Acetylene tank you are going to use; the Acetylene "boil" has to be under the point where you start pulling out the carrier solution (Acetone).

I may have missed some exceedingly fine details, but I'm fairly confident that I've dredged up the overall details.

If anyone out there can find fault, please do so WITH FOOTNOTES; that way we can bring facts to the table.

Pat:cheers2::thumbsup:
 

machinist@large

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Acetylene is dissolved in acetone or dimethylformamide for storage and transportation. The tanks are filled with Agamassan (shown below) and filled half way with acetone or dimethylformamide.

It's important to note, if an acetylene cylinder ever spends any amount of time on its side, it should be set upright and left for 24 hours before use. This will allow the acetone/DMF to settle to the bottom of the tank.

Thanks D!!! Your post links with mine; I think we may have covered it.

Pat :cheers2::thumbsup:
 

landuse

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Acetylene is dissolved in acetone or dimethylformamide for storage and transportation. The tanks are filled with Agamassan (shown below) and filled half way with acetone or dimethylformamide.

It's important to note, if an acetylene cylinder ever spends any amount of time on its side, it should be set upright and left for 24 hours before use. This will allow the acetone/DMF to settle to the bottom of the tank.

Now THAT is interesting. That stuff inside the tank must be pretty porous to allow the tank to be filled with acetone or dimethylformamide.
 
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devino246

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Now THAT is interesting. That stuff inside the tanl must be pretty porous to allow the tank to be filled with acetone or dimethylformamide.

It's actually very similar to concrete. The original formula included (among other things) cement, asbestos, and coal. It's very porous, but the pores are very fine, which is why you have to give the liquid so long to settle if the tank sets on its side.
 

landuse

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It's actually very similar to concrete. The original formula included (among other things) cement, asbestos, and coal. It's very porous, but the pores are very fine, which is why you have to give the liquid so long to settle if the tank sets on its side.

That IS interesting. My old manual suggest that sometime, at some point, balsa wood was also used!

I learn something new every day. :cheers2:

I can imagine those tanks must be **** heavy
 

Bluethunder3320

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I learn something new every day. :cheers2:

I can imagine those tanks must be **** heavy

when the guys come in with tanks they just kick them and spin them with one hand.. pretty crazy. it takes me like 20 mins to roll one outside lol
 

Doc Sprocket

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Balsa wood is very, very light, and similar in properties to basswood. These woods are often used in flying (R/C) model planes and gliders.
 
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