New to carting. Need some help

[Djbird87]

Ok so I bought this cart and it came with a torque converter kit that hadn't been installed.
I've have that all mocked up but have a stupid question. It didn't come with a chain but I have guessed that I need a #35 chain (torque converter came with a 12 tooth).
What I don't understand is how to hook up the chain. I'm assuming it will run over pulley by the seat to the 12 tooth but that seems like a long way to travel. Will it pass over the clutch too? Just seems like axle sprocket should run should be directly under the engine?

 

[B_Bimmer]

Nice looking kart. If it were mine the first thing I would do is try to slide the sprocket on the axle over under the torque converter. It looks like the old set up utilized that shaft in back as a sort of jackshaft, as well as a conversion from pulley to chain. Unless you factored that into the gearing ratio you are planning on or are going to put the same size sprocket on the drive side of the engine as there is on the side that drives the axle, it is going to screw with your gear ratio, as well as be a lot of useless moving parts. Simplest is right down from the converter to the axle.

 

[Djbird87]

Yeah that is another thought I had. Would it be easier to see if I can just flip the motor so tq is on axle sprocket side if I can't get moved? It didn't seem like all these speakers were necessary.

 

[itsid]

Not sure if I gut Bimmer right..

so I'll just kinda repeat what I think he's saying...

Your kart came with a torque converter from the factory obviously..
(the belt pulley you have on the other end of the jackshaft that's conencted to the chain and sprockets)
THAT Pulley (the rusted on e in the first pic) is already part of a TC.. namely the driven unit

By the look of it, just remove it and replace it with the part that you have from the TC kit.
it should be a drop in replacement.

Now, remove the tav-backplate from the engine again (that silver thingy you have bolted to the crankcase)
and just install the driver unit on the PTO (the clutch)

Your TC will be nearly all set up.

Now the bad news, the belt you got will likely not fit because of the now different distance between the two pulleys..
but fear not, just measure the center to center distance between the two pulleys and order a new belt to match that
(gokartsupply.com, gopowersports.com or mfgsupply.com to name a few)
You'll need a series 30 belt matching said measured distance.

Once that's installed you're finally done and can ride.

The chain itself, can remain untouched (well some grease won't harm... maintenance yes.. rerouting no! )

'sid

 

[Djbird87]

i believe i understand you both but they seem to be two different ideas.
bimmer seems to be saying to scrap the original set up in sense that he would get rid of the pulley on the left side of the kart (pic 1) and disconnect the chain on the right side. Then slide the axle sprocket over to the left side of the cart and run the chain directly from axle to tq kit.

sid seems to be saying to replace the pulley from pic one and replace it with the pulley included in the kit. then order a new drive belt and use the system basically as from the factory.

i guess my question is what is the downside of each of these options? and did i understand each of you correctly?

 

[itsid]

yepp.. both are viable options.. you can't run both and need to make a decision..

I'd go for the original layout (keeping the original jackshaft)
since there will be no relocation of the sprocket on the axle, no cutting and repainting the chassis
basically not a single major modification necessary.
(installing the proper sized belt is the only thing you can't do within the next five minutes)
All you'd need to do is remove four bolts and one nut, install the two pulleys [one nut and one bolt])

you could scrap the original and go for the tav-kit..
but you will need to relocate the axle sprocket to line up with the tav sprocket;
that might be as simple as moving the hub.. or as difficult as to cut and rebrace the kart chassis.. I can't tell for sure..
what I can tell for sure: it'll take much longer to do

'sid

 

[Djbird87]

Understood. I believe since this is a junk engine anyway I am going to just get a longer drive belt and stick to the original layout. I'll save the other option for the motor swap. I just want to be able to enjoy it running for a while
Thanks fellas!

 

[Djbird87]

Anyone have any idea how to attack this? Can't seem to get a wrench on it

 

[itsid]

DON'T

that's part of the pulley you can just pull it off the shaft (well.. maybe it's seized slightly rusted.. but no longer BOLTED!)
use penetrating oil!

'sid

PS if you want to disassemble the unit though.. there's a circlip that'll need to be removed,
then the rest will just jump at you if not seized.

 

[B_Bimmer]

Wow, I wasn't even here to further explain myself and everyone got it, on the internet! Ten points all the way around. Since apparently you can get belts for torque converters in varying lengths I would say that's the way to go, I had thought those were kinda special and standardized, hence you would want to use the whole standard kit for ease of repair and replacement.

 

[Djbird87]

Sid. I got clip but the rest must be seized. So much so that I thought it might be threaded.
I am hoping that when I get the pulley free, I will be able to push the shaft back a littlle so I can actually get the pulley out of there.

Thanks again!

 

[itsid]

lots of penetrating oil, and patience.. and tomorrow...
rethread the nut so that it's flush with the jackshaft and give it a whack with a mallet...
rinse(with more penetrating oil) repeat...

it'll come loose eventually

'sid

 

[Hellion]

 

[Djbird87]

Well fellas nothing is working for getting this pulley off. I have 3 arm pulley puller on it (tightened all the way) and it is not budging. Any ideas. It has been soaking in pb.

 

[itsid]

remove the sprocket from the other end, then try some manual rust removal first (wire wheel dremel)
then more penetrating oil..

Oh when We say penetrating oil we mean PENETRATING oil!... WD40 original formula is NOT!
PB blaster or WD40 penetrating specialist is..
a mix of 50/50 ATF and acetone is so far the best penetrating oil (and cheapest solution)

But frankly.. after a while it's likely easier cheaper and most of all quicker to just replace the jackshaft as well (with or w/o bearings).

From what we can see on the pics though it doesn't look to be that bad...
it needs some love alright, but it should still be usable *shrugs*

if penetrating oil and tapping with a mallet
(do not forget to reinstall a thread-protecting nut when hitting the shaft.. once mushroomed you'll have a tough time to remove the pulley)
to open up cracks in the rust doesn't work within a few tries... you could surely add some heat to the mix..

IIWM.. I'd disassemble the TC in place first (to not melt the buttons or weaken the spring)
there's a circlip on the small shaft protrusion you see (the one you wanted to attack with a wrench)..
remove that circlip and then the cam, spring and moveable sheave should come apart.
You'll be left with the fixed sheave and it's shaft.

said shaft can be heated with a propane torch (slowly and evenly of course) and with some more penetrating oil again should itself come off eventually.

'sid

 

[Djbird87]

Alrighty. Had to take the long way around and remove whole motor mount because of a lack of clearance. Most is off though. Can I pull the rest off with the puller too? And that guard plate, is it necessary? It is bent to **** and back. Thanks.

 

[Djbird87]

Yet another proble

So the go kart I bought was basically in pieces.
The cart has a factory jackshaft yet the guy I bought from threw old parts away and bought a tav30 kit. Not wanting to change the setup, the plan was to use the driven pulley from the tav kit on the jackshaft.
The jackshaft and old driven pulley was a monster to remove. After all that work, I found out that the driven pulley from the tav kit is a 5/8 bore and the jackshaft is a 3/4 bore. So what do I do now?
Buy a new driven pulley (3/4) to fit on the old worn out jackshaft? Or get a 5/8 jackshaft, sprocket and bearings to fit the driven from the tav kit? Is there any issue with going from a 3/4 to 5/8 jackshaft is the question I guess.

Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk

 

[itsid]

same kart => same thread

*merged*

it's easy to just use a 5/8 jackshaft instead of the one you had... not too much of an issue really (just install matching bearings)
might be the easiest way...

If you can remove the original backplate that's still fused to your jackshaft currently.. just use that instead of the new one (remove the rust and clean it up though)
install all the other parts again (also cleaned up of course) and you'll be set as well..
I'm fairly certain that all parts that came with your kit are interchangeable with the one on the js anyways.. so in case a part is toast.. just use the new one.. no need to buy anything but elbow grease

'sid

 

[Rail rider]