New springs or new driver?

[nick956]

So my comet 30 driver is sticking. I already cleaned and lubricated the parts needed. And it continuously engages at a high rpm then won't release to idle state and will bog my engine down. So my question is should I by a new complete driver or just the springs from bmikarts? Thanks and a quick repsonse is appreciated since I would like to buy tomorrow morning.

 

[itsid]

check the springs (there are two holding the weights)

just open them up and if they're not perfectly straight they're worn out.
a very slight bend is still okay, everything else and you should have them replaced.

But honestly.. the main problem is the clover slide plug thingy..
it must drop through the clutch, if not it needs to be cleaned,
you can chamfer the edges .. sometimes that helps if it binds up.
But in the end it must drop right through.
(that is the resistance the springs have to work against trying to retract the weights)

if it does, check that your outer and inner drum perfectly fit into each other,
there should be absolutely no binding at all;
otherwise even if the spring retracts the weights the inner sheave (inner drum part) cannot release the belt no matter how well everything is lubricated.

'sid

 

[nick956]

Oh and I forgot to mention that when it jams I hit the housing and the sleeve slides back into idle mode but when I turn it back on the driver will want to engage even at idle. Though this ONLY happens once it binds and bogs my engine off

 

[itsid]

remove the driver from the engine and take a good amount of pictures (assembled and disassembled)

while you're at it, unhook the springs and ley them side by side...
that way we can see if they need to be replaced or not

'sid

 

[nick956]

 

[nick956]

 

[itsid]

okay..

first things first:
the spring I'd say is still in working condition.

The rods on your weights should be cleaned from rust
remove the second spring and seperate the two halves, clean the rods and check if they slide into each other easily.

Allow me to ask, what have you done to the weights? it looks like their welded...
if so, have you checked that the groove for the spring is still flawless?
there mustn'e be any dent or the spring might catch.

last: the clover hub thing.. it looks a bit dirty.. nothing bad, but does it drop ?
(will it blend )
[EDIT]
ah on your second set of pictures it looks much cleaner...
[eoe]

Everything else looks fine from what I can see.
well used, but still in good condition.

Oh check that the two drums fit into each other easily without catching, maybe clean and sand the inner parts outer edge a bit if necessary

'sid

 

[nick956]

No I haven't welded a weights together and the rods slide in easily without effort and I noticed that on the groove where the springs sit , on one side it has a dent and chip into the groove. Yes the drums fit nicely and has play/movement when I slide it side to side inside the outer hub.

 

[Half-breeder]

... ok let me solve this problem right here n now... before you go spending $ that youll probably end up re-hashing out the issue later on the 'newer' one...

I had the same problem... heres what I found...

The test: Just gonna need the driver inner clam shell the side the belt rides on w/ the weights on/in it... and copper ring removed off the TC...

Take the copper bushing ring... now slide it into the clam shell opening(reenact as if the clam shell/clutch was engaged). You will more than likely notice that the ring will become stuck 'partially', and slightly jammed to pull out freely... what is happening is the springs and everything are working fine, and more than likely you did nothing wrong... but for some reason(grooves usually), that ring seems to become jammed in the clam shell, as you decelerate, keeping the belt/clutch engaged, dragging the motor down to a stop. You tapping the driver, dislodges the ring from the clam shell, freeing it to release belt tension... thus not killing your motor upon slowing down.

The fix....(what I did)...
First I took the clam shell and put it on the lathe(just need something to turn it steadily... afixing it to a drill that is clamped to a table, would work aswell... dont need to be fast... just steady for an even removal of barbs/gouges). As the lathe turned the shell, I took 150grit sand paper to the inside of the opening(where the copper ring slides into). After removing ALL darkened coloration/95% grooves/gouges(sanded to bare metal), I polished it w/ 800 grit. I checked the clearance/slide of the ring again... alil better, but still sticky. I took the ring and put that on the lathe. I noticed that if a slight bevel was put on the rings surface, it would clear and slide, free and clear of any jamming, inside the clam shell. First 150 then polish w/ 800... the entire outer surface. Then on the inside I sharpied an arrow indicating the beveled side.

Short version...

A. Sand evenly, to bare metal, the inner hub part of the inner clam shell(any grooves should be sanded to a smoothed minimum)... polish off.

B. Sand at a slightly beveled angle, the outer face of the copper ring... polish, so as to slide freely, in and out, of the clam shell's orifice.

 

[itsid]

No I haven't welded a weights together and the rods slide in easily without effort and I noticed that on the groove where the springs sit , on one side it has a dent and chip into the groove. Yes the drums fit nicely and has play/movement when I slide it side to side inside the outer hub.

No not welded together of course, but in your very first pic it looks like you tried to build up material.

maybe because of an odd wear pattern... nevermind.

Anyways, repolish the groove and check what Tihm suggested, the brass bushing; that is if you have a 3/4" version of the TC.
(the 1" version doesn't have such bushing.)

'sid

 

[nick956]

I followed advice and did to criteria but still did the same. How about the springs they do weaken as they get older and dont have the strength as they had when new.

 

[itsid]

they do wear slightly...

but slightly and slowly and if they loose strength they will not snap back straight again.

Yours look (assuming the second one is as good as the one pictured) to be in decent shape; but to be sure measure their length from tip to tip it should be 7-7/8"
if it's 8" or more it needs to be replaced;
so yeah, it might be the springs.. but I'm not too sure about it.

'sid

 

[nick956]

 

[itsid]

that's exactly 7 7/8" I'd say...

The springs are in perfect working condition then.

So please allow me to repeat (since it's important)
that clover hub.. does it really drop all the way through the sheave?
that means under it's own weight, from above the sheave right through and out of the sheave again without any hesitation?

if not, you want to clean it again with a wire brush until it does. (do not lube!)

'sid

 

[nick956]

Okay when I put the hub into the sheave and flip it over the hub wont fall out on its own unless I give a little push and then out it falls. It kinda locks itself in there.
I will add url for the video of this happening.

 

[itsid]

it must drop under it's own weight both ways, all the way...

Said it before...twice... :toetap05:

Nevermind,
but fix that and you'll be good to go.

'sid

 

[nick956]

Here's the video link to photbuckuet of hub

http://s1258.photobucket.com/user/caddy97/media/20140610_230018.mp4.html

 

[nick956]

And I will wire brush and clean until I get the clover to fall out by itself. Thanks itsid

 

[itsid]

wow it's even worse than I though it'd be.. the is DEFINITELY your problem!

'sid

 

[nick956]

Well after spending an hour and a half I finally saw the clover hub fall through by itself without hesitation and wow its something I never seen on the driver.