New project........

[Grizzlymi]

First build since I was 14, I'm 35 now, hope to learn a lot, and expect lots of questions. Well, here we go...........

Found rolling chassis on craigslist, homemade frame built in the 1960's. Rusty, rusty, rusty.

Replaced most hardware with stainless, painting finished for now....

Spent some time sand blasting, wire wheeling, etc............

Found an engine, 8hp Briggs and Stratton, runs strong, starts right up and no smoke.........

Upgrades I hope to make include, building new steering tower, new steering wheel, new seat, new rear sprocket, larger rear tires. Every time I finish something, I change my mind and get more involved! If I get the welder out, its all over from there.


Any suggestions, tips, or "you should do this" are strongly encouraged!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for looking!!!!! Adam..........

 

[OzFab]

8hp on that little thing? Better gear it low so we can see it when it's moving.

If that's a home made kart it's a really good one, nice score & good job cleaning it up Oh, & good job finding a good engine to match the style/vintage of the kart.

About the only thing that concerns me is once the engine is mounted, how close will the tank be to the seat?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

A unique and well-built chassis, fine finish work, too! I like the pedals, and the internal expanding drum brake is cool. I am assuming that you have a sleeved live axle in there, yes?

 

[jamyers]

Looks GREAT! Ive got a later model Briggs 8-hp, they make a LOT of torque down low, you'll love it. I can't tell from the pics, but if you don't have a live axle you WILL be wanting to convert to one. Our 8-hp kart easily spins both rear tires on a loose surface as soon as the clutch engages, which means you can easily steer it with the throttle if you want. with a one-wheel-drive it wouldn't be nearly as much fun!

Also, if that Gastonia was too close to the seat you could move it, but know that yours is a gravity-feed setup, if you moved the tank outlet to below the carb inlet you'll need to convert to a pump-feed, which means getting a pump ($20-25??) and a different carburetor-needle-valve-seat ($4-5) - but then you could mount the tank anywhere, like to the right of the engine or under the steering wheel like racers.

Check out my "Texas terror" build thread, and Souperman's build thread - we've both got Briggs 8-hp flatty's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Grizzlymi]

About the only thing that concerns me is once the engine is mounted, how close will the tank be to the seat?

The tank is about 3-4" from the rear arch behind the seat where I plan on mounting it.

 

[Grizzlymi]

A unique and well-built chassis, fine finish work, too! I like the pedals, and the internal expanding drum brake is cool. I am assuming that you have a sleeved live axle in there, yes?

Yes, it's a live axle!!

 

[Grizzlymi]

Jamyers, I was hoping someone would tell me the rear tires will spin on loose dirt!!! Ill check out your build and maybe get some ideas. I followed Souperman000 thread, thats how I found the site when I googled about the motor.

 

[Grizzlymi]

Here is a pick of the frame right after paint in the make shift paint booth.
(Pic 1)
The frame after paint on the ground during reassembly. (Pic 2-4)

Here is one with engine set on the engine mount. I think gas tank clearance with the seat should be fine.?.?. (Pic 5)

 

[souperman000]

Yeah the tank clearance should be fine. You probably saw in my thread that I had to move the tank to use the existing mounting plate. Jamyers moved his as well.

Oh, and your welcome for bringing in a new member!

 

[jamyers]

Jamyers, I was hoping someone would tell me the rear tires will spin on loose dirt!!! Ill check out your build and maybe get some ideas. I followed Souperman000 thread, thats how I found the site when I googled about the motor.

Yeah, you're going to LOVE it!!!

When we first put ours on the kart, I didn't know it had a blown head gasket and shot rings - and when we rebuilt it we doubled it's power! Note the videos of my son driving sedately around, lol

If you need any help, let us know!

 

[Grizzlymi]

Alright, first problem showed up today. It appears the steering tower is messed up. First off, the steering wheel mount is jacked! It has a set screw that was stripped and I re tapped the hole, cut a new bolt down, and it works. It's a complete POS design and I'm not happy with it. The inner threaded rod turns about a half inch in either direction inside the outer tube. It seems stuck, and I can not even remove the inner threaded rod from the outer. Hammered away and maybe an 1/4" of movement. Rusted, bent, I have no idea. I would like to replace the inner rod with new, reweld and mount tie rod bracket to new piece, and design some sort of mount for a universal or modern steering wheel. Any ideas, or hints, etc.... Thanks in advance!


BTW, should I just make my own using old one and modding the fit, or are there any aftermarket ones for a decent price that I could adapt to work? Thanks again!!!!!


Here are the photos.............

 

[Grizzlymi]

Yeah, you're going to LOVE it!!!

When we first put ours on the kart, I didn't know it had a blown head gasket and shot rings - and when we rebuilt it we doubled it's power! Note the videos of my son driving sedately around, lol

If you need any help, let us know!

Decided today that I am going to rebuild the engine. Carb, new gaskets and seals, blah, blah, blah! Any advice before I rip her apart or any mods while I am at it? It is an 87 engine and was originally red. I liked the color of it but noticed they repainted it for what ever reason. I will repaint it while I am at it.

 

[falcon52]

If I were you while you had the carb off I would bust out the dremel and get after the intake and exhaust ports. And if you can find a header for her that would be nice! Looks like a great kart man and I am impressed with the live axle set up. Its a good way to keep debris, trash and nicks out of the axle! Well done sir. Let us know how that brake works when you get her going.

 

[jamyers]

I'd suggest doing a diy porting and relieving job while you've got it apart, flatheads can use all the help flowing intake / exhaust they can get. Somewhere I've got a thread with pics of what I did to mine...

If you don't have a copy of the Briggs engine service manual, it's worth the $20 or so I seem to recall paying... if you can't get ahold of one let me know any questions you come up with and I'll dig the info out of mine (might take a day or so, I'm going to be in and out the next couple of days)

I left my governor intact, as there is NO aftermarket connecting rod for an 8hp Briggs, and it makes enough power as it is.

 

[OzFab]

The first problem with the steering shaft is it's been welded together:
Rule #1 from the go kart builders handbook: If, at any time in the future, any part may need to be removed, DON'T WELD ANYTHING TO IT!

I'm not blaming you, that's how you bought it but, now it's your problem. IIWM, I'd start again. Cut the top off the shaft & it should slip out. Can you turn the wheel 360*?

 

[Grizzlymi]

Fabro, It will only turn about 15* in either direction. The bottom were the tie rod mount is, is welded but the top were the wheel mounts is not welded, just marred up from someone stripping the set screw bolt. I tried the pound it with a mallot, but it only slides about an inch or so. Ill probably just cut the end of at the top and see what happens, as you suggested.


Jamyers, I ordered the Briggs manual off Ebay last night for $11.00 shipped, brand new in wrapper!!! Sweet!!!! I will be doing the port and polish thing while I'm at it. Thanks!


Falcon52, I will def let you guys know how the brake works. Thanks!

 

[jamyers]

Aha - there it is, my thread with the pics of my diy porting job.

One thing I'd suggest you might do differently, unless you are SURE you won't EVER want to screw a pipe-thread muffler or exhaust pipe in - leave the threads in the exhaust port alone. The port is plenty big enough as it is, so the threads won't hurt a thing, and without them you'll HAVE to find an exhaust flange to bolt to the block. Of course, if you do like I did and cut the stock exhaust pipe in half to get a flange to hook a pipe/muffler to, then by all means the threads can go away.

 

[OzFab]

Fabro, It will only turn about 15* in either direction. The bottom were the tie rod mount is, is welded but the top were the wheel mounts is not welded, just marred up from someone stripping the set screw bolt. I tried the pound it with a mallot, but it only slides about an inch or so. Ill probably just cut the end of at the top and see what happens, as you suggested.

Definitely sounds like it's bound up somewhere.

My thinking was that the top end may have a burr or a lip on it which will prevent it from sliding out

 

[Grizzlymi]

After wacking it with a mallot for a while, I managed to get it as far as half way through the thread part. No lip or anything. Must be somewhere in the column, has me stumped. A weld broke at where the column and front brace meet. Think I'm going to just make a new one. Less headaches, and I think I can reuse some of the old!


Jamyers, thanks for the link. Should be a huge help!!!!!!!!1