new Predator 420 stalls

OPmini

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[HELP] new Predator 420 stalls/knocks/surging/hunts

===========[THIS THREAD IS CONTINUED HERE: https://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?p=556436#post556436 ]============





:mad2:

Hi, i bought a predator 420cc engine about two months ago for my mini bike. I finally got it all put together today but when i let off the gas the engine dies. any ideas as to why? or how i can fix it? thanks

EDIT 1: heres some more helpful info: All stock except intake and exhaust. I also noticed that when you turn the choke off it dies and you can rev it up alot with the choke on half way and it takes while to warm up. After running it for a while it is very hard to start again and keep on. I noticed that it says no e85 or higher than 10% ethanol blend tomorrow ill train the tank, lines, and carb and add no ethanol fuel, since idk what blend my fuel is I usually buy the cheapest gas. Are some of these symptoms indicitive of a bad blend? I also heard some knocking before the engine killed itself

Noticed that the engine is surging too

watch the videos i think that the clutch is engaging at too low rpms ill try to trim the clutch spring today or tommorrow and see if that helps

EDIT 2: there is a bearing that holds the bell on to the body and it has 6 pads inside with a spring holding them together... so I think its a bearing drum... its not that the bearing it seizing its the spring inside the clutch is super loose causing the clutch to engage at idle, thus causing the engine to struggle to keep running when the bike is not moving, THUS causing the the engine to bog down and the governer to try to rev up CAUSING surging / hunting. AND since when the choke is on, the engine will be at lower rpms causing it to run but when you take it off choke and it revs up to idle increasing the rpms CAUSING the clutch to engage and at the same time the engine wont be able to run because the clutch wont let the engine move! EURIKA!!! I THINK I FIGURED OUT WHAT THE ISSUE IS!!! :roflol:

check my other post / video out here it proves my theory of garbage clutch spring: https://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?p=556436#post556436


link to video with problem: https://youtu.be/DegYZFIyHq8

https://youtu.be/XZxXt5qghGk

https://youtu.be/VWz0flFog58
 

OPmini

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All stock except intake and exhaust. I also noticed that when you turn the choke off it dies and you can rev it up alot with the choke on half way and it takes while to warm up. After running it for a while it is very hard to start again and keep on. I noticed that it says no e85 or higher than 10% ethanol blend tomorrow ill train the tank, lines, and carb and add no ethanol fuel, since idk what blend my fuel is I usually buy the cheapest gas. Are some of these symptoms indicitive of a bad blend? I also heard some knocking before the engine killed itself

Wow... a 420 for a mini bike...
Lets see some pics on this....

Ill post some pics when i figure this engine thing out
 

mckutzy

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Okay.. it was also to see if there wasn't any other outlining issues not so apparently known... With visuals.

Also where about are you located.. altitude if anything.. that is...
 

Joe-405

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Needs bigger main jet. Or it has a air leak.

Only 2 things it really can be.
 

OPmini

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there is a bearing that holds the bell on to the body and it has 6 pads inside with a spring holding them together... so I think its a bearing drum... its not that the bearing it seizing its the spring inside the clutch is super loose causing the clutch to engage at idle, thus causing the engine to struggle to keep running when the bike is not moving, THUS causing the the engine to bog down and the governer to try to rev up CAUSING surging / hunting. AND since when the choke is on, the engine will be at lower rpms causing it to run but when you take it off choke and it revs up to idle increasing the rpms CAUSING the clutch to engage and at the same time the engine wont be able to run because the clutch wont let the engine move! EURIKA!!! I THINK I FIGURED OUT WHAT THE ISSUE IS!!! :roflol:

check my other post / video out here it proves my theory of garbage clutch spring (also watch my other videos on the parent thread): https://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?p=556436#post556436
 

mckutzy

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OK.. a couple of things...
First, need to re rout the fuel hose through an under the throttle plate and by the fan shroud to the carb... having it up and straight down could have interference of the plate and other potentially causing premature wear and fire...so routed it like the stock fashion.

When you had your clutch, did you grease it at all(not oil)???
You have a modified exhaust... Did you rejet the carb???
I have seen parts of the vids, did you try to run the engine with the airbox cover on???
 

OPmini

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Thanks for letting me know about the fuel line! I dont want a fire lol! So yes i greased the bearings and rejet the carb I have ran the engine with the airbox cover on / off doesnt seem to make a difference. Today I bought some snap ring pliers and a tachometer I used the tach to measure the clutches engaging rpm found out it was 500 rpm! (Spring too loose!) so i took apart the clutch and trimmed the spring and It worked fine, now the clutch engages well at 2200 rpm! no more bogging / surging / hunting and i can take it off choke without the engine dying! that was untill 5 minutes later the snap ring on the clutch fell off lol so im pretty sure that was the issue. im just going to return it and get a good clutch thats made in America
 

mckutzy

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He's trying to avid the cheap ones as that was part of his problems on this thread to begin with...
 
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