New mini bike owner

[lelej1080]

Hello all im new to this but am addicted and want to buy more mini bikes haha

I picked up a early 70s heath frame from a friend's scrap pile and am building it. I had the frame sandblasted and I repainted it. I used a jack shaft setup and a Honda gx200 I got off a seized pump at work. I also added a disc brake setup off a razor electric scooter. It runs good but im on the quest for more power.

I did the standard intake kit and deleted the governor.
I have a head off a gx 160 im going to install along with larger jet's and will make an exhaust with screw off muffler. Im adding 18lb springs also. Is there a way to advance the timing? I'll get some pics of what it looks like now.

 

[lelej1080]

What it looks like now

 

[Zombient]

Welcome!

There should be some timing advancing keys for that engine.

 

[2SlickNick]

:welcome:
You know what...? Those radiator shrouds look good there.

 

[itsid]

with 18lbs springs you SHOULD get a billet flywheel to be on the safe side
(a billet conrod is definitely recommended)
Anyways, the ARC flywheel for the Honda and clones comes with 8° advance build in, so do NOT install a timing key in the ARC billet flywheel.!

'sid

 

[landuse]

I agree about getting the billet rod. Otherwise don't install the 18lbs springs.

 

[lelej1080]

Oh ok I actually got 22 lb ones I thought they were 18. Could I still put the gx 160 head on without the billet rod? I probably won't open the case yet. Idk how I feel about the radiator gards my buddy zip tied them on after a few beers.

---------- Post added at 09:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 AM ----------

I think 40$ for an exhaust is ridiculous for what it is. Im going to make one I cut the flange off an old muffler now just need to find a pipe with close to the same diameter and a 90 degree bend to weld on. Any ideas? I have a fleet farm and Menards.

My real inspiration is my neighbor just got a trail 70 and I want to be able to zip right by him haha

 

[itsid]

Don't put the springs in there without the billet conrod.

The reason is simple: with the governor removed the next thing that prevents revving to the moon is valve flutter (at least hopefully)
That should happen at ~5000 -5500 rpm with the stock springs.
A number that is considered to be what your stock con rod can handle;
much higher than that and the conrod will fail eventually.

So no.. stay clear of heavy valve springs if you do not want to get inside the engine..

BTW you MUST get inside the engine to REMOVE the governor; bypassing it and leaving the governor wheel inside the crank case is CALLING FOR TROUBLE
that's metal parts held by plastic parts.. the plastic will fail above 4000rpm and the metal will shred the engine from the inside.

pop it open and remove that thing, or you'll be opening it later, remove what's left of it and replace more than just the conrod

'sid

 

[lelej1080]

Sorry I should of been more clear I did remove all of the governor parts! Where do you guys get your parts from? Looks like I need a rod and flywheel.

thanks for the help!

 

[lelej1080]

here is the exhaust I made the other day. Defiantly an increase in power with the muffler un screwed. I also re-jetted and added the upgraded tube to the carb and felt it gain a little bit more power too.

Now just waiting on pulling the trigger on a billet rod and flywheel combo then adding the 160 head and 22lb valve springs and it will be plenty for me!

 

[Lucky7]

ARC Racing sells the billet stuff you need(connecting rod and flywheel).