New Member - Old Kart - Need Help Fixing

[QBall17]

I have a Ken-Bar Streaker D810 kart. I only know that because of the stickers

I am not a mechanic or engine person by any means, but I have dealt with plenty of lawn mowers, snowblowers, riding lawn mower, chainsaws and even a go kart when I was a kid. I have done many basic things as far as oil changes, belts, filters, fuel lines and cleaning/changing carburetors.

I am mechanically inclined, have plenty of tools and feel there should be nothing I cannot fix or replace on this kart to get it running and/or improve it. I just need and welcome any help from anyone. Terminology and correct names of parts and components I will lack in, so forgive me.

I know this is the Introduce Yourself thread, so I will post this again and more in the Go Kart Discussion thread, which I believe is more appropriate for assistance.

Kart History:
I purchased from a coworker about 8 years ago (its well used and I think I am the 3rd owner). My kids are now young teenagers and they don’t use it anymore, because it won’t stay running and stalled often last year when it did run. To be honest, I was about to get rid of it, just sell it as is, but last minute I said why not get this running and the kids could maybe help me rebuild it and learn everything along the way.

Kart Issues:
- no manual, no idea how to get parts
- gas tank is rusted inside, causing bad fuel and probably messed up carburetor.
- the engine/carburetor is hard to work on because everything is buried.
- I am able to keep it running by continuously spraying starter fluid in the carb. So its probably not getting gas or bad mixture.

Kart Improvements:
- Buy new carburetor and tank (no idea where to get these)
- I would consider buying a whole new engine, but no idea how about what to consider for mounting and mating up with the sprocket. Maybe a bigger engine.
- Need new tires, cannot believe the bald front one has not punctured.

Any help is much appreciated. Thx in advance.

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[Tpdingo]

There is the easy way and the hard way.

Easy way:
Swap a Predator 212 for 100$ on there and call it a day. Don't worry about mounting problems, the shaft and holes and dimensions have been standardized for 30-40 years now. Swap and go.

Hard(er) way:
Those briggs flathead motors are quite easy to work on compared to newer OHV and OHC motor. Find the model number and we can get you the link for a replacement carb. Not an issue. Should be 6-7 digits.

Tires:

Tires can be found at any major go kart place like GoPowerSports.com or BMIKarts.com. You can sometimes find preassembled rims and wheels if you don't want to replace the tire. DO NOT BUY FROM HARBOR FREIGHT. THEY ARE NOT RATED FOR A GO KART AND WILL (usually catastrophically) FAIL!! Again, find the tire spec on the side, usually formatted as below:

1) ## x ## - #
2) ###/## - #
ex.) 18x9.50x8, 145/70-6
# = some number

 

[landuse]

If it were me, I would just do a direct swap with a predator. Everything should be pretty standard and we can help you where needed

 

[Texan]

Sounds like all you need is a carb and/or gas tank cleaning. Here is a good website with detailed pics and steps on how to clean the carb.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_pulsa-jet_horiz_adj.asp


On the fan shroud is a decal with the engine model number, it is probably a 13XXXX. Google that number and you can readily find a parts breakdown and repair manual. There is plenty of websites that sell replacement parts

 

[Tpdingo]

Nah, go for the Predator. That engine has a recall!

https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2002/c...all-of-engines-used-on-fun-kart-type-go-karts

 

[QBall17]

I appreciate all the feedback!

I think I like the idea of plug and play by getting a new engine.
- I can get a little more HP
- Everything will be clean and new
- I need a new tank anyhow. The mounting bracket is integrated/welded to the bottom side of the tank so not sure if I can even get a one-for-one
- the rubber grommets that appear to connect an air/vacuum line are cracking and are probably dry rotted

If I purchase a new engine:
- I assume there may be some other modifications or tweaks I need to do for the throttle cable?
- I should not need anything to link the motor shaft to the clutch/sprocket assembly?

I will obviously learn more after I take off the old engine to see what I am dealing with.

As far as tires, I would like to consider bigger or more off road type. I have woods in my back yard that gets little bumpy and maybe something to absorb the rough paths.
- I think I have enough turning clearance without a larger wheel hitting the frame. I will probably need to measure.

I took some pictures of the engine plate number and tires and posted for reference.

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[Tpdingo]

Old tires are likely stiffer and have a worse ride, so replace it first. You shouldn't put anything bigger than what is on there, it isn't good for such a small kart and then you have to deal with regearing the kart. Also consider a new seat, that can improve the ride with new fresh seat foam.

For a engine swap:

The throttle cable will be a direct fit. The only problem it COULD have would be it being to short, and I doubt that. For the clutch, it should just bolt on with all the parts on your current motor. The only thing is that I don't know the crank bolt and it may not fit. You can get a new 5/16" 24TPI bolt for a few cents.

Also, why do you need a new bracket? The new motor comes with a tank pre-installed on the motor. Don't reuse the old tank, no need to. There should be 4 bolts on the underside of the motor holding it in. That is what carries the load of the motor.

 

[QBall17]

Thanks for all the suggestions. As it was mentioned, after I searched the engine model number, I started finding a whole lot of information for parts for my engine. I was considering just getting replacement parts, but the individual costs are super high. I think I seen my gas tank for +$100, geez. Looks like I’m better off just getting everything new with respect to the engine.

I am going to work on purchasing the 212 Predator after I find a good price. Websites are all over the board for cost and shipping.

I like the idea of a softer seat or a better one. But not sure how much my kids care, they just want to ride.

Ideally I would like to extend the length of the kart so I can drive it too I may talk with my neighbor on thoughts of cutting the frame and extending it with angle iron or something. I may get in over my head if I do that. I’m sure I will find out too many things will be affected, like the steering wheel and linkage would need adjusted. I was thinking that is I have the engine and wheels off, it would be a good time to do it.

Going to start by getting this thing on blocks and taking off the old engine and tires and make some purchases.

 

[Tpdingo]

I don't know if you need to extend the frame, you might just need brackets to hold the seat farther back in the frame.

 

[QBall17]

As far as the seat or extending the kart: The seat is already slid back as far as it can go unfortunately, and I don’t fit (6’ 1”).

Engine:
Looking to purchase the Predator 212 engine, I have found multiple places to purchase it from. One thing I have noticed, there appears to be different configurations?

I included pictures to explain what I mean. Do pay attention to the websites/cost, I am just using these for illustration purpose to show the differences I am seeing.

The current engine I have, the pull cord goes out the back of the cart. I know it don’t make that much difference which way you pull to start, but out the back I assume would be better.

I assume there is more than one version/model of the 212 Predator, should I be looking for a particular model/version?

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[qtband]

The recoil just unbolts and you can rotate it so the pull start is facing the rear.
I hope you're not paying that for the engine. Find a Harbor Freight store so you can get it for $100 bucks. If there isn't a store nearby, find a Northern Tool. The Ironton engine is just like the Predator & Honda. They all bolt up the same.
The Ironton is $99.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200638584_200638584
The Predator is $119.
https://www.harborfreight.com/engin...hv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-60363.html
The only difference with the Predator models, one is a hemi. Same price. Somebody here will be able to tell you what the model number of the hemi is. It won't make any difference to you, but it's fun to say "It has a hemi!".

 

[QBall17]

I have a HF in the same city as me

I just went to the website and it has $20 coupon so its on sale for $99. Looks like $6.99 for shipping. I probably could get it shipped to the store and pick up for free, but having delivered home I think is worth the $7 and of course tax, out the door $115.54

Hope this one has the Hemi, but I would guess not.




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[Tpdingo]

You can tell by the valve cover. If it is dull, cast steel, it is a hemi. If it is ithin stamped shiny steel, it is non-hemi.

The first picture you posted was a non-hemi, the second was a hemi.

Hemi - 60363
Non-Hemi - 69730

The best way to tell is to just look through the carrying slits in the box at the store and take a look. That is what I did.

 

[QBall17]

I ordered it online from Harbor Freight. It appears I ordered the model WITHOUT the Hemi. The version without the Hemi is on sale $20 off.

qtband said it does not make a difference in my case for what I am using it for. So I am assuming it is not worth changing my order for the other model?

Is there any difference that I will notice in performance?


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[Tpdingo]

Yeah, for your purpose it is negligible. The hemi vs. non-hemi doesn't really come into account until you start modding it around stage 2 or stage 3. When the engine is running at 8500RPM and producing 15+ HP, the small change in the combustion chamber shape matters for airflow. At 1200-3600 RPM and 6.5HP, it doesn't matter with the restrictive exhaust and intake putting more strain than the head shape.

The biggest difference in reality isn't the hemi vs. non-hemi. Its the crankshaft taper AFAIK. That is the biggest thing with modding as they don't use the same flywheels which matters at Stage 2 when you replace the shatter-o-matic flywheel with a Billet one.

 

[Kentucky Boy]

The predator should bolt right up to your motor mount with the comet back plate and torque converter. The Streakers are nice strong frames that can really take a lot of abuse. I've got an old Streaker with the same back plate and torque converter. It works great.

 

[QBall17]

Well, the kart is up on jacks and the new engine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow!

So instead of just taking things apart and hoping they go back together the same way with the new engine, I will take a step back and ask you friendly folks for your guidance.

You can see what I have from the photos. I am not sure what I call this, clutch or torque converter? As a kid I am more use to a centrifugal clutch (at least my terminology) and sprocket attached to the engine shaft, then going right to the sprocket on the axel with the chain. These belts are new to me.

Any suggestions of what to disassemble first and/or last or not to touch at all?

Thx again!

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[gr8hairy1]

Torque converters only look for confusing. Two things that you should keep in mind are to not over tighten the bolts and to install the belt in the correct direction.

Understanding what to call each pulley will help. On your go kart, the pulley closer to the front is called the driver, because it "drives" the other pulley. The pulley closer to the back of the go kart is called the driven.

Honestly, you'll be helped the most by watching some youtube videos. Here's a good one, but definitely watch all you can find.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK7EW9vcqSw
Also, you'll definitely want to clean the torque converter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn6160DxW2E&t=61s

It's easiest to take the torque converter off while the engine is still on the kart. Makes it easier to get the leverage you need. Most people use an impact drill on the driver.

Usually, you do not need to take driven pulley off to remove the torque converter.

Once the torque converter is off then you need to disconnect the throttle cable from the engine and remove the mounting bolts for the engine.

 

[QBall17]

Thanks for the info. I completely agree that I should have looked for videos, like previous posts have said. So I apologize for asking the questions when the answers are actually a click away. I never realized how many go kart videos there are. I mostly wasn’t sure I was going to find a video with my same parts and components.

All these videos make me want to buy new parts lol. I am excited about having a new engine, now I wonder if I should buy a new torque converter? The new engine Makes sense to me, done with the old one, get something I know works. However the clutch may be fine. Maybe just clean it up like you mention. But its only looking like $50 to $70 for a new one.

I don’t know if I have a 20 or 30 series, nor what the differences are. I will start googling to find out




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[gr8hairy1]

No worries. There's a whole world of info on youtube.

The different series of torque converters are for different HP engines.

I personally wouldn't get a new torque converter right away. The one you have is a Comet. Comet brand is the highest quality you'll find. To get a brand new 30 series Comet torque converter you're looking at over $200. They are made better with better quality metal. You can definitely get a 30 series for cheap. But don't be too surprised on the cheap ones not lasting as long. Overall the parts are interchangeable. If your driven breaks you can replace it and a new cheap driven will work properly with the original driver and visa versa.

Just make sure to get a high quality belt.