New Member Intro

[4TZN 210]

Greetings from San Antonio, Texas!
I've recently decided to take up karting so that I can improve my mechanical knowledge and skills. My current build is a Subaru ex 17 (6.5) that my dad got for me more than 10 years ago that needs to be cleaned out before I can start any upgrades. I've done some research and it seems like there aren't too many parts available for Subaru's, so I'll be trying new things along the way and sharing any information that could help fellow Subaru builders. I'm really excited to try to get this thing flying again, it brought me hours of enjoyment as a kid and deserves some TLC in return for it's sacrifice. Unfortunately, it's been out of commission for at least 5 years, so there's no guarantee that it'll start up again. While I don't mind spending money on it, if I have to just cut my losses, I will. I'm excited to learn and hope I can utilize all the forum has to offer!

 

[rocketkart]

welcome to this forum. it is a great place to share info & ideas. im sure someone here will help you with your Subaru engine as im not to familiar with them. have fun and good luck and dont hesitate to ask any question that i or anybody else here that may be a help to you.

 

[firemanjim]

Welcome fellow Texan! You found the right place for help and info! I have been on no other forum better than this one.....
If that engine was running when parked,it will run again with a freshening up....

 

[4TZN 210]

Thanks guys, I actually just got the carburetor off and I'm a little more optimistic after seeing a lot of the components. For one, the carb is a Mikuni, so that means it might already be prepped for upgrades (might). Where would be a good place to post about my progress? I'm trying to do one thing at a time and not moving on until I completely understand each part, that way future builds will be easier. If anyone knows where I could find a carb guide for idiots or can offer a crash course, I appreciate it

 

[landuse]

Thanks guys, I actually just got the carburetor off and I'm a little more optimistic after seeing a lot of the components. For one, the carb is a Mikuni, so that means it might already be prepped for upgrades (might). Where would be a good place to post about my progress? I'm trying to do one thing at a time and not moving on until I completely understand each part, that way future builds will be easier. If anyone knows where I could find a carb guide for idiots or can offer a crash course, I appreciate it

Welcome. If you look here http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs you can choose your carb and get a breakdown on how to clean it

 

[OzFab]

Unfortunately, for you, you are correct, there's not a lot of performance parts for Subarus, mainly because they're simply not as popular as the Hondas/clones. The good news is there's plenty of free or inexpensive mods that can be done, no matter what type of engine you have.

with these guys, if the engine was running when it was stored away, it should start straight up after a quick clean...

 

[danssoslow]

Hello fellow Subie owner!

http://robinamerica.com/smanuals.aspx?sid=7

^There's Subaru's manual page, including service and part manuals. The cam is the deal breaker with these engines, as there is only one lobe to control the lift for both the intake and exhaust; but Tim Isky at smallenginecams.com does do regrinds on them, so there is some ray of hope. Other engines may allow for a much larger aftermarket; but these engines get very powerful with simple bolt ons.

These are very smooth and quiet engines, even after breathing on them a little bit.

 

[4TZN 210]

danssoslow, thank you for the link. Before becoming a member, I did some reading on your build and it's one of the reasons I signed up! As mentioned, I'm a novice, so I'm not exactly sure how or where to find parts that are compatible with my build. If you don't mind, could you please give me some direction? I've been looking to change the carb, air filter setup, and find a better flywheel for this build.

 

[danssoslow]

ARC makes a billet flywheel for the Subaru. The EX17 head is a higher compression design than the EX21 with equal sized ports and valves, so don't bother with changing to the 21 as some have.
For the carb, I simply went with an Animal PZ22 and stock Animal intake. It you go this route, realize that one side of the intake has a sloted mounting hole. This sloted mounts to the carb body, not the head. I'm almost certain that the bolt pattern is the same. Use your stock carb insulator, and you can smooth the transition from intake to head pretty well, plus insulate the intake from extra heat. If you decide to go a cheaper route, a Mikuni VM22 or VM19 will bolt right up to the Animal intake also. The air filters to fit these carbs should be the same size. Measuring the mounting base for the air filter when ordering the air filter will ensure you get the right one, and shouldn't pose a 1-off or unique problem.

For working within the EX's powerband, I like the Robertson Super Snake better than the shorter Candy Cane header. These engines are tourque monsters, and the SS header complies with that. With my current engine, I ordered the pipe for the Animal, unwelded; which gave me the flexibility to orient the header how I seen fit. You can order a header flange from Robertson; but I reused the flange from my stock muffler. After cutting the muffler off and grinding the welds down with a Dremel, light persuasion with a hammer and flat head screw driver cleaned the muffler tubing without damaging the flange.

I'll post more this afternoon.

 

[4TZN 210]

That was a gold mine of info; I'm excited to see what else you have to share! I appreciate the list of products, I'll definitely be looking through them. I'd like to understand why those parts are compatible, but I don't know what the measurements they're giving are for. For example, most carbs are listed with their sizes in MM, but I don't know what size my engine's mount is or what they're even measuring! Is it the mounting point, the inside, or something completely different!? As mentioned before, I want to be sure I'm learning everything about each part so I can not only be sure to have that info, but so I can help others.

Will you be posting more pictures in your build thread soon?

 

[danssoslow]

I really don't have anything to post right now. Waiting on money to come in; and then it's gonna be for purchase of little things, like a microswitch for the brake light, the brake light, etc. Mostly stuff that will not be installed untill the powdercoating is done. If I have to do anything kooky to mount it, I'll take some pics.

The millimeter measurement for slide carbs are taken at the outlet of the carb, where it mounts to the intake. A very important detail that I've seen plenty people do, and I am also guilty of this, is taking off heat shield around the engine. Leave them on! I always thought they hindered heat disipation; but in reality, it's what allows the fan on the flywheel to pull in cool air around the case and head. If you remotely mount a gas tank, fasion a shield that mounts in the gas tanks place, as the tank also acts as a shield to help direct cool air over the top of the block.

I'm looking into putting a bigger valve into the intake side of the head; but I'll have to fi d a machinist that can see if it is feasible to cut the current valve seat from 25mm to 26mm. I've done a more mild port job on the new head I purchased. After doing some reasearch, I believe I went too far on my last head.

ARC also makes a billet rod if that is something that interests you; but I'm not certain that it's absolutely necessary. These engines have been raced with stock rods and flywheels to 7500-8000rpm for years. I believe I mentioned it in my thread; but Yamaha YF200 R1 valve springs are drop-ins for a stiffer spring. I run two intake (white, 18#) springs. I bought some spare keyways; this winter I'll pick up a degree wheel and experiment with advancing the timing. 5* is what I was always told to bump it up to.

That's about all I can think of right now. You have some pics to show? We LOVE pics!!!

 

[4TZN 210]

I'll have to look into how to resize and upload pictures, especially from my phone. At the moment, all I have is a pile of rusty parts to show, so once I finally have everything cleaned up, I'll start a new thread that'll follow any and all progress from the ground up. My flywheel is pretty rusty, so I'm gonna opt to buy a replacement and I'll be getting some new valve springs for when I remove the governor and start getting a little more power out of the build. I have yet to completely identify the Mikuni carb I have, but I think I can work with it for now. Realistically, my current goal is to get it running. From there, I can decide if I'm really gonna fix it up. I'd like to get as much out of it as possible, but I might buy a Honda or clone to get a little more experience (and save money) before I come back to the Subi. I really appreciate all the info, if there's anything else you think I need to know or don't mind sharing, please do so.

Quick question: how do I remove the flywheel? I can't rotate the bolt without the rod (or axle, I think) rotating and don't want to risk damaging the rod by trying to lock it up or some other brute method.

 

[OzFab]

That's why you remove the flywheel before stripping the engine but, hindsight is 2020, right

I'm assuming that, since the rod is out, that the head is off, correct? If so, set the side cover back in place so the crank is stablised, find a peice of soft lumber that will fit down the bore & under the crank. Wedge that sucker in there & swing off the flywheel bolt with a socket on a breaker bar. It helps greatly if the engine block is bolted down...

 

[4TZN 210]

I've seen different methods of removing the flywheel, most of which have been while the engine is stripped, so I never would've known that. Either way, the part that's giving me problems in removing the flywheel isn't the actual flywheel, it's a medal cup-like part from the starter pulley that is bolted to the rod. I can't remove the bolt that is holding it on the rod without the rod rotating, so I'll probably have to lock the flywheel into place somehow (which would also keep the rod from rotating)before I can remove the bolt.

 

[rocketkart]

usually i will take a small chisel/wood wedge and put it between the flywheel and block using a rubber mallet not to hard! taping the chisel to wedge it in between the flywheel and block to keep it frome muveing that usually works for me.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Welcome fellow Texan. S.A. was my birthplace and hometown for the first 13 years of my life. My mother was down there yesterday for a funeral but I couldn't get away.

Sometimes an impact wrench is worth it's weight in gold. I've always found a way to wedge the flywheel somehow when I didn't feel like dragging out the compressor, hose and impact. .......

 

[Poboy kartman]

I've seen different methods of removing the flywheel, most of which have been while the engine is stripped, so I never would've known that. Either way, the part that's giving me problems in removing the flywheel isn't the actual flywheel, it's a medal cup-like part from the starter pulley that is bolted to the rod. I can't remove the bolt that is holding it on the rod without the rod rotating, so I'll probably have to lock the flywheel into place somehow (which would also keep the rod from rotating)before I can remove the bolt.

That's not a rod that's moving it's the crankshaft. If you have the crankcase open use the wood block.You should be able to put one between the counterweights and the case. If that's still closed I've done the same thing Rocketkart suggested before.

 

[landuse]

If you still have the case closed, you can stuff some rope down the plug hole to stop the piston moving. I do this when I need to lock things up. Just make sure you leave some rope sticking out so you can pull it out again

 

[4TZN 210]

Thanks for all of the suggestions! The feedback really makes things less daunting and encourages me to keep pushing forward. My next task will be completely cleaning out the insides and installing the new parts once they arrive; I'll be on the lookout for the best methods so I can share them here!

 

[OzFab]

Start by reading this thread. Paul (landuse) was totally clueless when he started his first engine rebuild...