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landuse

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... I see band-brakes... they stop backwards but not forwards?.... You have the belt mounted backwards/upside down would be my guess...

If they are band brakes, then half breeder could be correct in saying that they were installed the wrong way around. Band brakes should stop you if you are rolling forward, but suck if you are going backwards
 

Half-breeder

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Here are some diagrams of install... 'if' youre running band brakes(looks/sounds like it)...




These are what I based my install on(I use band-brakes also)...then I rolled backwards one day n found out they dont work rolling backwards... so based on your explanation and from what I 'can' see... backwards band-brakes is the most logical explanation to the 'issue' your having...

If you know what a "band oil-filter tool" is and how it works... you should have np's fixing/figuring out the problem.
 

rusty76

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Thanks fellas. I think that I will be taking this thing apart and trying to figure out if maybe I got this band on backwards. I did take it apart and thought I flipped it opposite direction it was but I may have just turned it back the wrong way . I also thought that I had the rod from the brake pedal to the band wrong. But looking at it and taking it apart revealed it wouldn't rest on the top side. It fits on the bottom but hits the chassis if put on the top over the fixed mount, confusing I know. My other thoughts are that the band may be worn out. Although this thing looks like it has a lot of meat left. I'm going to take it back apart and see if I can figure it out. I'm also curious how you guys hooked your throttle cables up as well. Mine works fine just curious if I should think about anything here as well. It works great and hasn't really gave me any problems other than just getting it hooked up. Thanks again.
 

rusty76

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I'm sorry they are band brakes. Thanks. Also do you have any pics of your band brakes set up.
 

the..gokart..god

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next time you need to get a sprocket or somthing off that rusted on try this it works for me toilet bowl cleaner i had used it on a jack shaft the lock collar and sprocket was rustes so bad and used toilet bowl cleaner you could you see the rust melt off
 

rusty76

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Funny I learned a ton getting this thing torn apart. I never heard of toilet bowl cleaner, but the stuff gets rid of some pretty serious stuff..... One thing I learned was patience. Because no matter how much I wanted to work on it my stepson often didn't. It was a tug o war some times. But in the end we had some great fun. And the kool part is I get to ride it too....ha.
 

loud1

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It's the acid in the cleaner that breaks down the corrosion, but the surfactants help the acid stick where it's needed. If you can find it, naval jelly works as well.
 

rusty76

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I'd heard of using naval jelly as well. Really to be honest alittle bit of presoak and a lot working did the trick. Even the bearing I had to cut off wasn't all that hard to get apart. For me I used a method of PB Blaster and WD40. Then I would use some 3and1 oil I had that would work. I've been lucky with that combo. I've also tried hot water and acetone as well which seems to work. Thanks for tips.
 

rusty76

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Ok so got the brakes working. Finally figured that out. Thanks for the help. Now I need to know how to wire up a kill switch for the preadator engine. I've looked on here for a diagram. When it comes to electricity I'm alittle blind. I did find one answer but I really need to see a diagram or how it is hooked up for me to understand. Pictures would do me mucho mucho justice. Thanks.

P.S. just alittle teaser of the nose art we did. Still more to do but so far so good for us.
 

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OzFab

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The simplest way to connect a kill switch is to interrupt the low oil sensor (the yellow wire IIRC). Disconnect it &, using the same style connectors, connect to a 2 core wire to the remote switch (is that clear enough or do you need more detail?)
 

rusty76

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I think that will work. I've read everything from disconnect the black wire coming from the cut off switch and plug the kill switch into that. Although I think this is what you are talking about but disconnecting the low oil pressure switch. I'm going to disconnect the switch once we get out of breaking in the motor. A lot of info but not exactly on point for me. Thanks for the help dude.
 

OzFab

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No sweat...

Leave the wire to the main switch intact, that way it's still there as an isolator, which is why we suggest using the low oil sensor instead. You shouldn't need to cut any wires, that way, if you do have a warranty issue, simply reconnect it to original & no one's any the wiser...
 

rusty76

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Thanks I got the kill switch to work just like you said to do it. No problem. Thanks again. I replaced my mangled throttle cable, fixed the seat and got the kill switch to work. Very productive afternoon.
 
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