New Go Kart cable help

[Ean Gdaniec]

So I tried to customize my throttle cable with little experience, and I end up making the cable useless. I need a new one... can anyone help? The cable end where the engine is has one ball end, while the other has a set up with a brass looking fitting, keeping the outer skin from moving with the inner cable. The end is just bare cable tightened to connect to to throttle rod.

 

[rushking19]

Bike shops sell them

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

This is the throttle cable

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

Alright I found a workable cable, I won't be perfect, but it will do the trick.

 

[landuse]

Alright I found a workable cable, I won't be perfect, but it will do the trick.

What did you get?

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

I may get this: 71 LONG THROTTLE CABLE W 63 CASING 8252-1390 MANCO ASW GO KART

 

[Zombient]

I used a cable off a junk mower. Works the same. I just cut it the length I needed.

Use one of these to make a "stopper."

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-03336?seid=srese1&gclid=CMWZ0uyttsgCFQERjgodsSABuQ

I bought mine at AutoZone. They're like $2.99. And the cable was free.

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

Yep, just take out the inner cable from the housing and cut each separately, as me and my dad found out today.

---------- Post added at 11:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------

I bought ferrels and clamps a few days ago. I should be good.

 

[Karttekk]

I installed a throttle cable on a previous restoration purchased at the local bike shop. Did what you mentioned. Pulled the actual cable out of the outer housing, cut the housing to the correct length. Put the end of the cable with the ball attached on the pedal. Routed it to the carburetor and cut it to the correct length. Expand the cut end of the housing with a pick or something round to allow the cable to insert without catching, it may have gotten slightly crushed during cutting. Slide the housing back up the cable. Once the cable was fastened through the "stop" or the stand with the screw in it, I pushed a small cap or end that they supplied with the cable on the cut end and crimped it so it wouldn't fray. Pull back on the cable end with pliers to take up any slack and make sure the pedal is all the way back to eliminate any play before you tighten the stop screw.

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

I lost understanding on the lower half-sorry about that. But yes, that sounds about right.
What do you call the end that looks like a bolt but has a hole running through to allow the cable to move but not the housing? thanks!

 

[Karttekk]

The cable "stop" fastens to the throttle arm, the cable goes through the hole then the screw pinches the cable to keep it from pulling back out. Either one of the stops pictured should work, I used the stem type. The hold down clamp goes over the conduit or housing to keep the whole cable assembly from moving. Hope this helps. All I'm saying is pull the cable out of the conduit, trim it to fit. Trim the conduit to fit. Fasten the pedal end of the cable to the pedal, slide the conduit over the cable toward the pedal. Clamp the conduit down with the pictured clamp and push the actual cable through the stop and tighten the screw. The bike shop supplied me with a small barrel that slipped over the cut end of the cable to keep it from fraying once it was put through the stop hold and secured.

 

[Karttekk]

These videos explain terminating the cable end to prevent fraying once it's cut and how to modify a cable properly. Apply the steps to your kart. Nothing to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_AraD4VE_0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66IYOM9ITWk

 

[Zombient]

I actually took some JB weld and kinda "welded" the end of the cable. Now it's impossible for it to fray.

 

[OzFab]

I use an 80watt soldering iron & solder the ends; no fraying & the cable still slips through the sheath (outer cable)...

 

[crazykart]

I just melted some pewter in a pan (was doing some casting of a figure for a friend) and dipped the end of the cable in.

 

[Karttekk]

All great ideas. The bike shop threw in the end cap with the new cable, figured may as well use it. Anything to keep it from fraying is good.

Thanks

 

[Ean Gdaniec]

I know about the clamp, I was talking about the "bolt" which has a hollow center, allowing the housing to be stationary whilst still having the cable pulled though back and forth. And yep, I already had plans for melting the end so it doesn't fray. Whoever had mine before had the end hideous. The housing end is damaged so I may need to get a new one, and attach a ferrel onto the end.

 

[Karttekk]

Is the setup pictured here anything close to what your setup is? Not sure what "bolt" you're referring to.

Thanks

 

[Karttekk]

You may have to fabricate something if your kart is an older model where part availability is limited. If you know the brand and model of the kart, do a Google search regarding what you need. There are several online vendors that may be able to help. Gopowersports.com, BMI karts, Reliable Go Karts, GoKartSupply. Is your first picture the area you're referring to?

 

[crazykart]

I can't remember the name for it, but to explain what bolt he's referring to:

Think of a bikes brake lever, how it has the threaded adjustment screw that the cable seething itself sits against.

Like this, correct?

If so bag of 25 for $10: https://jet.com/product/detail/b404...CArHLdDk7rzAufr-pE_rZyTP3DynK15zLxBoCpdvw_wcB