New cart for me (well my kids)

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Adrenaline Junky

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Hi everyone,

Been cruising this site for ideas and have gathered most of the info I need to complete my build.

I picked this up at a garage sale for $5. :wai:
MiniMoto.JPG

We are converting from electric to gas and have purchased a Predator 212 from HF. We also picked up a sprocket, chain and clutch. Going to extend the frame 8 inches. My stock rotor looks like this:
Rotor with brake.JPG
Rotor.JPG

I'm wanting to convert from mechanical to hydraulic. I've found these complete brake systems. I'm just not sure if they will work with my rotor setup (knowing I'll have to fab it all up)

This one comes with a rotor, steel braided lines and remote reservoir.http://scooterpartsunlimited.com/index.php/atv-quad-rear-hydraulic-caliper-w-disk-110cc-125cc-150cc.html

Another without the rotor or reservoir. Although master looks like it will need to be mounted vertical.
="http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-Rear-...s&vxp=mtr&hash=item460444d8d9#ht_3319wt_1082"

Any thoughts on whether these will work with my existing rotor? Any other options you knowledgable folks might have?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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Adrenaline Junky

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It's a mess. Allen heads were frozen. Couldn't get it to work properly. Pretty much lost interest in it. Besides I think the hydraulic brakes are safer.

I have read many threads talking about a "floating" rotor, but those were mainly with mechanical brakes. It looks like the hydraulic caliper will be hard mounted. That being the case, do the pads self align on the rotor when the brake is applied? Seems like it would have to be dual piston to clamp properly. I can't tell if the calipers I found will clamp with both sides or just one side of the caliper will move.

Anyone own these that can help me out?

Thanks for the response,
Mike
 
jandj

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If it's a single piston caliper either the caliper or the rotor has to float. Usually easier for the rotor to float.
 
Doc Sprocket

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Adrenaline Junky said:
It's a mess. Allen heads were frozen. Couldn't get it to work properly. Pretty much lost interest in it. Besides I think the hydraulic brakes are safer.

I have read many threads talking about a "floating" rotor, but those were mainly with mechanical brakes. It looks like the hydraulic caliper will be hard mounted. That being the case, do the pads self align on the rotor when the brake is applied? Seems like it would have to be dual piston to clamp properly. I can't tell if the calipers I found will clamp with both sides or just one side of the caliper will move.

Anyone own these that can help me out?

Thanks for the response,
Mike
Click to expand...

I don't know if there's too much sense in trying to get all that sorted out before you actually purchase a brake system, but if it helps, here's some info for you:

Single acting disk brake systems are such: The caliper applies braking pressure from one side only. From there, something must float in order to equalize braking pressure on both sides of the rotor. In some cases, the caliper is fixed and the rotor floats. When braking, the caliper applies pressure from one side. This squeezes the floating rotor into contact with the fixed inboard pad. If the rotor could not float, the brake would be rendered near completely ineffective.

A more common methodology behind single-acting disk brakes, is the floating caliper. The rotor is fixed in position, and the caliper floats. It is designed and mounted in such a way as to let the caliper slide side-to-side on it's bracketry. When the brakes are applied, the caliper begins to apply pressure against one side of the rotor. Once the pad begins to make firm contact- and since the rotor cannot move- the caliper's own force against the rotor causes the caliper to push away from the contacting side of the rotor, bringing the opposing side into contact. This equalizes the pressure from both sides. If the caliper were to freeze on it's slides and be rendered unable to move, braking would be rendered nearly ineffective.

With a double-acting caliper, the caliper is capable of applying pressure from BOTH sides evenly, and both the caliper and rotor maintain a fixed position. As far as the hydraulics are concerned, it depends on the type of caliper itself. Some have internal passages that make for only one fluid inlet and one bleeder screw, while others are plumbed seperately.
 
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Adrenaline Junky

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Thought I would add an update to a great father and son project.

We stripped it down to the frame
Before cutting1.JPG

Taught the kido how to use the air tools.
Cooper cutting.JPG

Stretched the frame 7 inches
Cut frame.JPG

Mocked up the motor
Motor mockup2.JPG

Sanded the frame
Cooper sanding.JPG

Painted the beast
Cooper paint.JPG

Attached the parts
Cooper assembly.JPG

Reworked pedal assembly
Pedals.JPG

Disc brake mount
Disc brake mount.JPG

New caliper mount
Caliper mount.JPG
 
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Adrenaline Junky

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Fabbed up some skid plates for the chain and rotor
Skid plate.JPG

Finished poduct
Finished.JPG
Finished1.JPG
Finished2.JPG
Finished3.JPG

It took us about 6 weeks on the weekends here and there. We have about $250 into the conversion from electric to gas. That included a new motor, clutch, 60 tooth sprocket, chain, disc brake assembly and paint. If you didn't notice, we used his old car seat from the attic. This HF motor starts first pull every time and runs like a champ. Parking lot sale $90.

I cannot tell you how many hours of fun ALL the kids in the neighborhood have had on this thing. The biggest reward is seeing the grin on my sons face every time he flies by.
 
OzFab

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Nice work :thumbsup:

Just one thing, LOSE THE SEATBELT! If it rolls, the belt will trap him under the kart; without the belt, he'll be thrown out...
 
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