New Bike - Help Identifying - Baja Warrior?

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chriswh86

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Hi DIY Go-Karts!

Nice to be here trying to dig up some information! I recently picked up a bike that looks a lot like a Baja Warrior from what I can tell. Images below :thumbsup:

I have done a bit of digging and I have come up with a parts supplier, monster scooter which seem to have a good amount of parts.

From the seller, I was informed that the carburetor wasn't working. Also from the photos you can see the jack-shaft assembly is missing the clutch/sprocket on the engine side.

Engine wise, I am having a hard time figuring out what model engine I have, 5.5/6.5? I am sure it is a knock-off Honda. Id like to salvage the engine and get it running again. Once I can get it running I can then move on to sourcing parts to complete the bike.

I am cautious though that if there are enough parts missing/broken on the engine it may be cheaper just getting a new one. I will have to look around in Canada for where I can get one if that is the case.

Anyways, If anyone out there can assist me with properly identifying the bike I have that would be great! As well, if anyone has some great places to learn about getting these knock off engines running that would be helpful as well.

Chris,
 

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mckutzy

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Hey brother.... Us Canadians got a raw deal on the chepo motors.
If it is a genuine honda.. It'll say right on the block, on top.

Better questions... Does it have compression? It looks like it needs a tank...
Some more motor pics and well able to tell what it might be if no other discernible markings.
 

chriswh86

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I will have a look see and grab some more photos. I pulled it over and it seemed to have a bit? Although I am not experienced in these small hp engines as to the 'feel' of compression. Any suggestions?
 

KartFab

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this is not a baja warrior, the warrior is a later model with plastic fenders. and a higher fork setup.

Mods to this bike that are not stock include replacement of the handlebars and replacement of the seat- both are not from the mini bike originally.

This is either a "mini baja" or "baja heat" or some other earlier variant (also called MB200, or MB165 - depending on 5.5 or 6.5 motor.

From what I can tell, you need:

air cleaner housing -super cheap
tank -most expensive
new air filter
paracord (for your pull start, you can grease up the spring and rewind it and it will be good as new)

also, the people that had this before may have 'bypassed" the governor -see that big spring attached to the governor arm? That doesn't look stock.

id look on the sidecover sticker to see what engine it is. I have a hunch it may be the JF200 (which is the honda gx200 clone), but i could be completely wrong. Carbs for the clones, hondas, and predator are all the same. You can use 1/4" or equivalent in metric fuel line.

For the most part, a carb clean and fresh oil are all these little engines need if they didn't get any water in them.

OMB warehouse also sells a lot of the baja mini bike parts.

Also..... you may be able to get two birds with one stone by purchasing an aftermarket small motorcycle or similiar type of gas tank instead of buying the fake one. Just a thought.

Also, many people really are bummed out with the crappy speed (17 mph) of the bike, so they get a tav2 and bolt it on. You just need to get a little more chain with it I think and you are set. the knockoff tav2 30 series torque converter is like $100 on ebay.
 

chriswh86

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Hey brother.... Us Canadians got a raw deal on the chepo motors.
If it is a genuine honda.. It'll say right on the block, on top.

Better questions... Does it have compression? It looks like it needs a tank...
Some more motor pics and well able to tell what it might be if no other discernible markings.

Here are some more photos of the engine. I feel like an idiot! It has a sticker which I thought wouldnt be related to 'Baja' anyways, here is what it says.

"...Imported by Baja Motorsports LLC
Engine Family: 7CGQX.200CAA..."
 

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chriswh86

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this is not a baja warrior, the warrior is a later model with plastic fenders. and a higher fork setup.

Mods to this bike that are not stock include replacement of the handlebars and replacement of the seat- both are not from the mini bike originally.

This is either a "mini baja" or "baja heat" or some other earlier variant (also called MB200, or MB165 - depending on 5.5 or 6.5 motor.

From what I can tell, you need:

air cleaner housing -super cheap
tank -most expensive
new air filter
paracord (for your pull start, you can grease up the spring and rewind it and it will be good as new)

also, the people that had this before may have 'bypassed" the governor -see that big spring attached to the governor arm? That doesn't look stock.

id look on the sidecover sticker to see what engine it is. I have a hunch it may be the JF200 (which is the honda gx200 clone), but i could be completely wrong. Carbs for the clones, hondas, and predator are all the same. You can use 1/4" or equivalent in metric fuel line.

For the most part, a carb clean and fresh oil are all these little engines need if they didn't get any water in them.

OMB warehouse also sells a lot of the baja mini bike parts.

Also..... you may be able to get two birds with one stone by purchasing an aftermarket small motorcycle or similiar type of gas tank instead of buying the fake one. Just a thought.

Also, many people really are bummed out with the crappy speed (17 mph) of the bike, so they get a tav2 and bolt it on. You just need to get a little more chain with it I think and you are set. the knockoff tav2 30 series torque converter is like $100 on ebay.


Wow, thanks for all the assistance KartFab! I uploaded a few more photos. One photo has the engine #, Dont know if that helps you out although I am thinking I would have the original 6.5hp.

Also, would you be able to recommend a good place to learn about the 6.5hp and how to clean/refresh it to get it running. I am just not sure on carb cleaning & tuning as well as how spark is generated etc and if any switches/wiring need to be done to get it to run. Thanks :)
 

KartFab

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pull off the flywheel cover. You will see the magneto with a large wire going to the spark plug. Magnetos usually are fine even when rusty. There will be a metal tab on the magneto, this is where a kill switch wire goes.

Behind the flywheel there will be two wires coming out. These are for the 3A charge coil that connects directly to the light.

These should be the only wires you have to deal with.

For carb glean just google "Honda gx200 carb clean" there are a bunch of videos on it.

Also, if you don't want to get a torque converter, your clutch setup looks almost complete. If you can find a 10t 40/41 centrifugal clutch and a section of 420 chain, then you would be up and running.
 

chriswh86

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pull off the flywheel cover. You will see the magneto with a large wire going to the spark plug. Magnetos usually are fine even when rusty. There will be a metal tab on the magneto, this is where a kill switch wire goes.

Behind the flywheel there will be two wires coming out. These are for the 3A charge coil that connects directly to the light.

These should be the only wires you have to deal with.

For carb glean just google "Honda gx200 carb clean" there are a bunch of videos on it.

Also, if you don't want to get a torque converter, your clutch setup looks almost complete. If you can find a 10t 40/41 centrifugal clutch and a section of 420 chain, then you would be up and running.

Thanks :) I picked up some carb clean today :) I also tested for spark even with the pull cord partially out. I was getting spark and the plug looks pretty new, although pretty black. Running rich?

I plan to take the motor to a friends and get it compression tested in the next couple days. Do you know what a typical engine should be at? Good, Fair, Bad? if compression is ok I will continue with the motor. If not ill have to look for an alternative
 

KartFab

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bad would be like 10-30, good-great you really cant tell with these small engines because of the compression release mechanism i have seen like 50-90 on them. Larger electric start small engines 90-120 psi. Probably has something to do with the compression release.

You do a dry test (just screw the compression tester in the hole, then pull the cord until the pressure stops going up)

Then squirt a little bit of oil in there, if the compression test goes up it could mean you have bad seal with the rings. If it stays the same, then it should be fine. While you are testing compression, you can have yoru buddy (or yourself) use a set of feeler gauges (they are found at any automotive parts store) and check the valve lash.

If this were my engine, yeah I might do a compression test and check lash, but id just clean the carb and see if it runs. If it runs without smoking after it warms up its probably good haha.
 

chriswh86

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bad would be like 10-30, good-great you really cant tell with these small engines because of the compression release mechanism i have seen like 50-90 on them. Larger electric start small engines 90-120 psi. Probably has something to do with the compression release.

You do a dry test (just screw the compression tester in the hole, then pull the cord until the pressure stops going up)

Then squirt a little bit of oil in there, if the compression test goes up it could mean you have bad seal with the rings. If it stays the same, then it should be fine. While you are testing compression, you can have yoru buddy (or yourself) use a set of feeler gauges (they are found at any automotive parts store) and check the valve lash.

If this were my engine, yeah I might do a compression test and check lash, but id just clean the carb and see if it runs. If it runs without smoking after it warms up its probably good haha.

True! I heard you could pull the valve cover off and pull out the exhaust pushrod so the compression release doesnt work giving an accurate test.

I was told the carb is bad and it needs a new one, although I dont know what can really go bad with a carb so cleaning and trying will be best :)

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:55 PM ----------

Does anyone happen to know what the 'decorative' tank is like for the baja mini? Is it infact steel and open on the inside? I was thinking of a small bladder inside it to carry extra gas...
 

Flyinhillbilly

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You can also just loosen the exhaust rocker and do the same thing. My GX160 was like pull starting a big twin Harley ( I've kick started one around 5 million times, and that's bad enough) when I got it and didn't know the valves were out of adjustment.
 

chriswh86

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Why not just squirt some carb cleaner and oil down the throat of the carb and see if she will pop over. :thumbsup:

Denny

I popped the carb off today and drained the bowl. Skunky as all heck lol.

The engine oil is clean. That might be an idea though. I am really not a carb person and so when I am told, it needs a new carb. I am not sure what the heck could be wrong with it.

I guess my best bet is to disassemble as per a youtube video and see if all my parts function the same as the carb in the video. I noticed I dont have the insulator plate between the engine and the carb, not sure if that matters but

I also have a gas tank coming. $27 bucks and free shipping within Canada. Luck of the draw I suppose!

---------- Post added at 03:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------

Why not just squirt some carb cleaner and oil down the throat of the carb and see if she will pop over. :thumbsup:

Denny

I took your advice Denny. I put the carb back on and the air intake, squirted a little brake clean down. 2nd pull it fired up and ran for about 1-2 seconds

p.s. The insulator is on the motor, sorry

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:56 PM ----------

I am trying to decide if I should go back to the stock handle bar, brake level, throttle setup or try to stick with the chopper style?

The brake cable as it sits does not work. I dont think I can get it working without a new cable at whatever length. As well, the throttle doesnt work properly but I should be able to work with it
 

Denny

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I popped the carb off today and drained the bowl. Skunky as all heck lol.

The engine oil is clean. That might be an idea though. I am really not a carb person and so when I am told, it needs a new carb. I am not sure what the heck could be wrong with it.

I guess my best bet is to disassemble as per a youtube video and see if all my parts function the same as the carb in the video. I noticed I dont have the insulator plate between the engine and the carb, not sure if that matters but

I also have a gas tank coming. $27 bucks and free shipping within Canada. Luck of the draw I suppose!

---------- Post added at 03:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------



I took your advice Denny. I put the carb back on and the air intake, squirted a little brake clean down. 2nd pull it fired up and ran for about 1-2 seconds

p.s. The insulator is on the motor, sorry

---------- Post added at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:56 PM ----------

I am trying to decide if I should go back to the stock handle bar, brake level, throttle setup or try to stick with the chopper style?

The brake cable as it sits does not work. I dont think I can get it working without a new cable at whatever length. As well, the throttle doesnt work properly but I should be able to work with it

Great! Now you know the engine is solid go and order you're new carb or rebuild the old one! See no screwing around trying to do a compression test. :thumbsup: All the Bajas I've ever seen used Subaru/Robin engines by the way. I have no idea where to get parts.

Denny
 

chriswh86

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Great! Now you know the engine is solid go and order you're new carb or rebuild the old one! See no screwing around trying to do a compression test. :thumbsup: All the Bajas I've ever seen used Subaru/Robin engines by the way. I have no idea where to get parts.

Denny

10/4! thats great. I am going to snap a couple photos of the carb after cleaning incase anyone here can see any issues, I will then rebuild and see if I can steal a gas tank before the main one shows up.

I also have some paracord coming to re-do the pull cord and have some for an emergency kit. I will need to deal with the pegs as it appears both sides have snapped off, 1 before I bought it, the other snapped off today.
 

chriswh86

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Well,

She is getting closer. Apon getting my new carb I realized the old one doesnt have a proper functioning choke. The old one moved freely, the new one has resistance as you open and close it. Either way. The new carb is on.

I think I am finally figuring out how to attach all the springs to get the throttle to function properly. Pulled the throttle apart to find the cable nearly frayed. I will have to fix that. It was also routed incorrectly.

I am now trying to figure out the bolt for the clutch assembly. The end of my crank arm is threaded, although rusty. The parts book calls for an M8x1.0x30mm. To my surprise I have that exact bolt. I tried threading it in, only get a few turns in and im sure im hitting some crap and rust so ill have to get a pick tool and try to clean it up a bit and then try to get the bolt in and out a few times.
 
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