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studysession

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I have been asking questions here on the forum for a few weeks and want to thank you all for the help.

I wanted to build a mini-chopper but never welded before. So my first build is a bar stool racer that I plan to taking to 75 & 80 dragway. My brother races a 72 Nova there.
http://www.75-80dragway.com/

Here is a link to my brothers blog for his car -
http://www.spazracing.net/

I go to take pictures. This season I plan on using my bar stool racer to get around in the pits and will be taking it down the track for fun..... :)
 

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studysession

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More pics of the frame being built....
 

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studysession

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Engine, drum brake and foot support

This is the harbor Freight 6.5hp engine.
 

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studysession

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Here you can see that my welding is getting better.

I need to figure out how to clean up the inner joints. I bought some metal brushes and will see how that works, but not 100% sure if that will do the job I am looking for. :)
 

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studysession

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Size comparison for the engine and bar stool
:roflol::cheers2::auto::bannana::wai:
 

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gokart14

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That is an awesome looking build But those welds are a little shaky you have a nice build but trust me you want to make sure those welds are nice and strong
 

anderkart

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If your going to use a live axle, I'd suggest you just tack-weld your stool-leg mounts to the frame until you can make a test drive. Lots of bar stool racers dont turn/handle very well because they simply guessed wrong on their seat mounting position.

The further forward you mount your seat, the better turning ability it will end up with, but on the other hand you dont want it further forward than necessary. Just 1" forward or back can make a big difference in transferring your body weight to the front or rear tires...

The best solution would be some type of adjustable/sliding seat mount system with like 4" of adjust-ability so you could easily fine tune the seats location to best match your current driving conditions. For mostly all high speed/strait-line cruising your steering would be less twitchy/more predictable with the seat further back, but it just wouldnt turn very well that way. With a short kart and an extremely high center of gravity you'll always be compromising one for the other.
 

studysession

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Thanks for the advice -
Not sure to fit fit motor and everything how to make the stool adjustable. Have to think about that one.
 

anderkart

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Hey yer welcome,
From the engine location shown your post #5 pics, I'm thinking your chain is going to be longer than I'd want given a choice. I've never built a bar stool racer, but I'd at least consider locating the engine 2-4" further back. Maybe that would help free up some room for the adjustable seat feature...

I was kinda thinking the stool could be attached to a pair of long-ish C-channels, (w/open end facing downward) and with each sides C-channel resting over your main frame rails,
and then simply have a series of small holes where you could slide the C-channels forward/back and secure to the karts frame with 4 quick release Ball Lock Pins installed horizontally:

You could cut side-relief's in the 2 C-channels as necessary to clear your frames cross members so they'd adjust back and forth with no obstructions.

 

studysession

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Awesome! Thanks for the help, I like it.
As for the engine - I need to pull off the gas tank, air cleaner and muffler and relocate their positions to better fit it onto the frame. Otherwise it barely fits under or around the stool.

Thanks again - I really like that Idea.
 

studysession

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BTW -
I do have a 1" live axle but not using slicks. Got some good deals on tires and they have tread on them. Still good enough for some YouTube videos. :)
 

bighead

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Yep the stool on my racer was to far back. Same problems as Anderkart posted above.

Cut the stool down from the top. Not the bottom. Here are some pics of what I did. My stool had two rings though.

Also mount some type of stirup on your pegs. This way when you go around corners you can hook your leg into it. This lets you lean good. Without anything holding your foot you just fly off. Some guys make a pegs that your foot can go under as well on top of the peg. I like the old school ten speeds road bile stirups. You could mount them to the flat part of your frame or even pegs. even use the whole pedal with mounted stirups. Not sure how that would look but it would work great. remember your knees have nothing to grab or latch onto on a BSR. You just fly off.

If you just using it in the pits why not just use the one wheel peel. You would be able to to turn on a dime. You would be on pavment all the time right?

If I was you I would ditch the stool. I know it is a big part of the build theme. But they suck. You slip off the slippery seat all the time. Check out how this seat frame was built. This setup also beefs up your frame making it much stronger and makes your steering shaft sturdy. This is what I will do on my next BSR for sure. I hated the rickity stool. Also you would be able to adjust your seat hight front front to back with ease. Unlike the stools one possition only. You can go as low or as high as you want. Same with front to back. You can still use the top part of your stool though. Or go low like in the 4th pic.
 

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studysession

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Got more welding done today. :)

I am using lawn tractor tires. I know it would be better with slicks - but this is much more affordable for now. :)
 

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studysession

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Most likely will take the advice on changing out from the stool. Every time I try to place it over the engine - There is no fitting it well at all.
 

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