need suggestions for manco dingo with b&s 9hp

[hypothecary]

I've got a Manco Dingo currently running a b&s 6.5hp with a Hilliard centrifugal clutch. Its a blast but its just not enough for me.

I also have a 296cc 9hp briggs vanguard engine with generator shaft begging to go on the kart.

I am wondering, can I put a 1" pto crank in there or should I machine the existing crank to 3/4"?

and

Is there a clutch or tc that will hold 9hp while being thrashed like a rallycar and not burn like those stupid junk centrifugal clamps? I admit, I'm hard on mine - like glowing red after only a few minutes driving.

I prefer the idea of a tc but I don't want to spend $$$ on a tc unless it eliminates slipping and premature fatigue entirely. I'd hate to burn up $200+ getting sideways in a dirtlot.

 

[r_chez_08]

Tc's are great. You may get away with a GENUINE comet tav2 with a 1" shaft on your 9hp. They last for a very long time and the parts that do wear from normal use are replaceable. They do slip but only if your gearing is real bad. Plus the additional ratio gain means you can gear for more top speed than a centrifugal clutch.

 

[hypothecary]

Thanks for your reply.

I'm looking more for torque than high end, this kart is my dirtlot drifter.

I looked at Comet tc's and http://www.mfgsupply.com/gomini/gominiclutch/gominiclutchtorq.html says the tav is for smaller 3-6hp applications.

I was thinking about getting the 40 series for 8-18hp and so I figured machine to 3/4" pto since I doubt a replacement crank like that is available. If a replacement crank with 3/4" pto were available I'd swap it.

 

[kaymo]

i talked to an old kart racing guy and he said he would machine down 1 inch cranks to fit the smaller clutches, but he also said the smaller clutches would handle the power his motors were putting out. if you already heat up clutches, it may be a good idea to go for bigger. the 1 inch shaft motor on my kart uses a bigger clutch (noram i think) and he said they are about 140+ for that clutch vs less than 100 for the smaller clutch.

the torque converter isnt just for more top end, geared correctly it will give you more power down low as well, which is what you would want in a lot drifter.

i hate the name torque converter. it is nothing like the torque converter in a car, but it IS a CVT. why not call it a CVT?j (continuously variable transmission for those who dont know)

 

[Doc Sprocket]

i hate the name torque converter. it is nothing like the torque converter in a car, but it IS a CVT. why not call it a CVT?j (continuously variable transmission for those who dont know)

Y'know, I been wondering that for a long time. Kinda makes me nuts too. I slip in the phrase "CVT" wherever possible, in a (perhaps pointless) bid to convert the masses here.

 

[hypothecary]

I agree, tc is a misnomer but everyone uses it so I don't see it going anywhere. I thought using cvt might be going out on a limb so I've been using tc here.

Comet 40 series cvt is available with 1" bore drive clutch. I think my existing crank is 15/16 taper but its <1". I can either replace with 3/4" or 1" (if available) or machine to 3/4" (if I have the length behind the taper). I'd rather drop in a 1".

I guess what I'm after is feedback from anyone with experience swapping or modding a crank to fit a drive clutch about any problems that might come up.

Also, where could I get engine specs like torque values?

 

[hypothecary]

I called some local shops and found the one that's willing to help.

A guy there is contacting B&S to try to find me another crank with 3/4" or 1" pto.

Here's the problem: using my engine's model number the parts system will only show the factory spec crank for that engine, a taper shaft, available for $160.

This engine was probably used on more than just generators but the same engine with a different shaft is apparently a different model number.

So we are trying to find a model number for an engine like mine with a 3/4" or 1" pto so we can then order a replacement crank using that model number.

Here's the numbers in case anyone can help:

Briggs & Stratton 296cc 9hp Vanguard

Model: 185432
Type: 0606E1
Code: 99101849

Edit:

I also called my regular machine shop who refered me to a crank specialty shop a couple cities over.

$180 to cut to length, turn to 3/4", cut keyway, and drill/tap end. No guarantee on strength. In fact the shop recommends against it for this application (assuming cast crank).

 

[hypothecary]

i talked to an old kart racing guy and he said he would machine down 1 inch cranks to fit the smaller clutches, but he also said the smaller clutches would handle the power his motors were putting out. if you already heat up clutches, it may be a good idea to go for bigger. the 1 inch shaft motor on my kart uses a bigger clutch (noram i think) and he said they are about 140+ for that clutch vs less than 100 for the smaller clutch.

the torque converter isnt just for more top end, geared correctly it will give you more power down low as well, which is what you would want in a lot drifter.

i hate the name torque converter. it is nothing like the torque converter in a car, but it IS a CVT. why not call it a CVT?j (continuously variable transmission for those who dont know)

I looked up Noram clutches. They look like good parts but after considering purchase price, operating cost and the gearing benefits of the cvt I'm still thinking I want a cvt for this build. Thanks for bringing them up, good to know about for future reference.

Does anyone know if disc type racing clutches hold better and how long they last?

 

[Doc Sprocket]

I have never used a racing clutch, but I think it's a safe bet that they are superior. There's gotta be a reason racers don't use $40 generic clutches...

The Comet Tav2 was rated up to 8hp, but many of us suspect that it's capable of more. I lovingly beat the bejeezus out of my Comet40 for years and all it did was ask for more. Personally, I think it's worth the additional cost. Amongst other things, it uses a wider belt which would make it (the belt) more durable. As far as the actual componentry, I believe the 40 is significantly superior. Very rarely do I hear of one malfunctioning, even with little or no maintenance.

 

[hypothecary]

The Comet Tav2 was rated up to 8hp, but many of us suspect that it's capable of more. I lovingly beat the bejeezus out of my Comet40 for years and all it did was ask for more. Personally, I think it's worth the additional cost. Amongst other things, it uses a wider belt which would make it (the belt) more durable. As far as the actual componentry, I believe the 40 is significantly superior. Very rarely do I hear of one malfunctioning, even with little or no maintenance.

Exactly what I needed to hear, thank you toystory_4wd!

 

[hypothecary]

A replacement 1" pto crankshaft is on it's way, backordered so it could take a few weeks.

I plan on running a Comet 40 series cvt and I'll post pics when there's progress.

Thanks for the help guys, my 9hp Dingo is coming along...unless I find a Baja Heat or Warrior to trade for before I start modding the Dingo frame...

 

[r_chez_08]

Nice to know you are getting it done right, good luck , comet 40's are ACE!