Need Manco Dingo 285-B so-called Axle parts... ( I know, DREAM ON )

[T.H.E Cat]

My Sprocket Hub for Manco Dingo 285, I "THINK" will Not tighten against the 7/8' HEX Axle the insane person invented. It has at least 1" of side-to-side play in it now.Running the 4220 chain and it is getting to bad now to ride for fear of busting the chain at 75 mph. Any part for these axles is almost impossible to get, especially rear Hex Hubs for the 18-9.50 x 8 tires.. Tried to buy the sprocket Carrier hub that comes with 2 Split Collar locks from GPS but they are sold out as usual. I've looked 8+ hours online for 7/8" double split collar locks and was going to try this for a fix..Found 1, only thing is, $300.00 dollar min. order. Had to spot weld a piece of tubing to the axle to make disk brake for manual brakes for this wonderful axle, Lol...Anyway, if anyone has any double split 7/8' Lock Collars or a Sprocket Hub Carrier for this so-called axle I would be interested. P/S...Thought maybe I could someway get this hex head Bolt out and re-tap it with a little larger bolt and hope maybe it would tighten it a little. But going to try and keep looking for double split lock collars as those aluminum sprocket carriers tend to stretch & loosen with hard riding. Also, never understood why they would put the steering rack right where your feet go either.I imagine even for a child these things tend to be in your way. I'll be 70 next B-day & seems I didn't have this much trouble with the go-karts I had 55 yrs. ago...Lol... Thanks

 

[Karttekk]

I just sold a kart with a 7/8" hex axle and needed a split lock collar. I had a 1" split lock collar laying around so I tried it and it actually worked! Put some Threadlocker on the bolts then torque them down pretty tight, I think you'll be fine. Not the ideal solution but a solution none the less.

 

[Karttekk]

The lock collar was for a 1" round axle by the way.

 

[Karttekk]

Any chance you could fabricate something like this to work?

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[Denny]

I would just upgrade to a round axle and be done with it. In 1988 by brothers 285 came factory with a round axle. Don’t ever remember any Dingo coming with a steering rack. Got any pictures?

 

[madprofessor]

just upgrade to a round axle and be done with it

Seriously, did you mean 75 mph, or was that a figure of speech? Regardless, a 1" round solid steel axle will give you nearly unlimited options for sprocket carriers, brake discs, locking collars, bearings, etc...................and you can build from there just as strong as you wish.

 

[T.H.E Cat]

I would just upgrade to a round axle and be done with it. In 1988 by brothers 285 came factory with a round axle. Don’t ever remember any Dingo coming with a steering rack. Got any pictures?

Not actually a real steering rack & pinion.. Just the to rods with the eye loops that you steer by. They are right up there where your peddles are at. There is a name for these steering mechanisms, I believe Ackermann and anti-Ackermann. I have the Ackermann set-up where the spindles point back behind the king pin, attaching behind the king pin.. They claim you get better steering with this set-up but they are in my size 11 foots way... Guess it all has something to do with settings the camber-caster and toe as far a better steering goes.. Believe you have to set toe out on ant-Ackermann if you want to get a good tighter turning radius. LOL...

 

[madprofessor]

Trying to understand your descriptions, kind of hard to do, so here's some basics for you..............
If your spindle arms are trailing to the back toward you, they're a trailing arm setup. If they're thrusting ahead of the kart away from you, they're a leading arm setup. You seem to know what rack-and-pinion steering is, the other type of steering is with a pitman arm. It attaches directly to the steering shaft, and only moves the tierods effectively about 80 degrees each way right/left.
Ackermann angle in your steering is an adjustment of the aforementioned spindle arms (trailing or leading, doesn't matter) so that with the front tires pointed straight ahead, the tierod connection on a spindle arm is in a straight line with the spindle's kingpin bolt and the exact center of the rear axle. This is absolutely essential with a live axle (straight rear axle) as the rear wheels will already have scrubbing resistance in a turn.
A zero ackermann angle is as described above, but folks build with some positive or anti-ackermann depending on what they're trying to do. Zero ackermann in a turn causes the inside front tire to scribe a tighter circle than the outside tire, so neither tire scrubs and resists.
GoKart steering explained,including Ackermann Theory.WATCH BEFORE YOU WELD! - YouTube

 

[T.H.E Cat]

Seriously, did you mean 75 mph, or was that a figure of speech? Regardless, a 1" round solid steel axle will give you nearly unlimited options for sprocket carriers, brake discs, locking collars, bearings, etc...................and you can build from there just as strong as you wish.

Actually had it 76mph once running slick racing tires. I use to build dirt track race car engines back in the 80's. Still wish I had the last 400 small block chevy (de-stroked) with using the 350 crank & rods with custom TRW pistons to get a 377ci. Anyway, Those were the fun days. Was using during testing the 54 tooth sprocket, no torque converter ( I just don't use them even though there is a way to get a little better speed out of them by changing springs), and a fully built 212.. Running another 212 now with just stage 1 kit, shaved heads, with remote control start, led lights, Competition #420-10 tooth clutch, 60 tooth 1 piece sprocket I cut into to make a split sprocket (saves lots of time and money to cut a solid 1 piece sprocket into a split sprocket), sprocket 6:1 ratio gearing. I haven't had it wide open because the sprocket hub sliding trouble but guess it should run around 60-65 mph. Going out to fix that right now. Bought 2 cheap 7/8" hex Bearings, knocked the Hex part out, drilled 2 screw holes in it and tapped for 2 Allen set screws. That should hold it in line for now. Yea, best ting I can do is get a 40" long x 1" round step down axle. Want have such a hard time finding parts for it. I like to keep 1-spare of every piece of this go kart except the frame. Have it all except Carrier Hub ( hope to get if GPS gets anymore soon). If Civil War doesn't break out think I will try and work on complete 1" round axle assemble next year. Thanks for your suggestion. Be Well.

 

[T.H.E Cat]

Trying to understand your descriptions, kind of hard to do, so here's some basics for you..............
If your spindle arms are trailing to the back toward you, they're a trailing arm setup. If they're thrusting ahead of the kart away from you, they're a leading arm setup. You seem to know what rack-and-pinion steering is, the other type of steering is with a pitman arm. It attaches directly to the steering shaft, and only moves the tierods effectively about 80 degrees each way right/left.
Ackermann angle in your steering is an adjustment of the aforementioned spindle arms (trailing or leading, doesn't matter) so that with the front tires pointed straight ahead, the tierod connection on a spindle arm is in a straight line with the spindle's kingpin bolt and the exact center of the rear axle. This is absolutely essential with a live axle (straight rear axle) as the rear wheels will already have scrubbing resistance in a turn.
A zero ackermann angle is as described above, but folks build with some positive or anti-ackermann depending on what they're trying to do. Zero ackermann in a turn causes the inside front tire to scribe a tighter circle than the outside tire, so neither tire scrubs and resists.
GoKart steering explained,including Ackermann Theory.WATCH BEFORE YOU WELD! - YouTube

You are correct and people really need to know about their steering especially in a Go kart running down the road at over 60+ mph. You can easily get hurt real bad or killed just by having the wrong steering set-up. The right set up makes a world of difference if your going to make any turn at all or even just a quick jerk of the wheel to avoid something in your way... Thanks for the Links my Brother...Take Care.

 

[T.H.E Cat]

Any chance you could fabricate something like this to work?

Concentric International | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Concentric International,Brands, Keyed Shaft Coupler Brand new keyed shaft coupler for joining two keyed shafts of the same size. Machinable and

www.surpluscenter.com

Yea, that's what I have done. Got me 2, 7/8" hex bearings (cheap ones, Lol) and knocked the Hex part out. Drilled and tapped for 2 Allen Set screws. Hope this will hold it, it should, but if not I will drill and tap for 1 more. No way is it going anywhere then... Thanks bro.

I just sold a kart with a 7/8" hex axle and needed a split lock collar. I had a 1" split lock collar laying around so I tried it and it actually worked! Put some Threadlocker on the bolts then torque them down pretty tight, I think you'll be fine. Not the ideal solution but a solution none the less.

Yep, sure is one way.. No reason it shouldn't work as all it is doing is keeping Hub from side to side movement. If someone even want to go through the trouble, they could put some JB Weld (the good-grey kind) inside the 1" lock collars, let it set up, then file them a Hex into it. But I see no reason what you said shouldn't do the trick and you have already proven that it works...Thanks bro.

 

[T.H.E Cat]

Seriously, did you mean 75 mph, or was that a figure of speech? Regardless, a 1" round solid steel axle will give you nearly unlimited options for sprocket carriers, brake discs, locking collars, bearings, etc...................and you can build from there just as strong as you wish.

Yea, this manual Brake system is nothing but a rattle trap.. The caliper and holder that slips down into the welded on holding piece on the frame does nothing but rattle with the gap between the two.. Think I will consider a 1" round Axle and sell off these hex axle parts I have. Thanks